When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Does any one know how to get this bolt out? It will spin from the bolt head side and the nut can come off, but i have hit it with a hammer with lotsa of spray break free stuff and the spacers move and i have put the trailing arm in a position to take the load off. Still when i wack on the nut it will not slide out.
when I changed my trailing arms ,I had to use a sawsall with a long blade .cut the bolt but keep track of the shims .its a good start when you align the rear end.
Hi c,
Since you have the bolt turning the sleeve that's inside the t-arm bushing must be frozen to the bolt.
Have you tried to get the rust buster in on the bolt as it phases through the t-arm.
Do you have ANY space on each side of the t-arm?… people talk about having to use a sawz-all to cut the bolt.
Regards,
Alan
I'd be careful about 'pounding' on it for fear that the t-arm and shims may bulge out the side of the t-arm pocket opposite of where you pound.
Hi c,
Since you have the bolt turning the sleeve that's inside the t-arm bushing must be frozen to the bolt.
Have you tried to get the rust buster in on the bolt as it phases through the t-arm.
Do you have ANY space on each side of the t-arm?… people talk about having to use a sawz-all to cut the bolt.
Regards,
Alan
I'd be careful about 'pounding' on it for fear that the t-arm and shims may bulge out the side of the t-arm pocket opposite of where you pound.
Thanks, Alan
It's a tight spot and i apparently cant get lube in between the bolt and spacer.
pull out the shims then push the bolt to one side and cut off the long side with a Sawzall, push the bolt the other way and make another cut, the t-arm will then come out of the pocket, you will most likely need to replace the bushings anyway
pull out the shims then push the bolt to one side and cut off the long side with a Sawzall, push the bolt the other way and make another cut, the t-arm will then come out of the pocket, you will most likely need to replace the bushings anyway
That is exactly what I did. I was able to pry the shims out some with big screw driver then I was able to get a claw hammer on the shims and pulled them out like a wisdom tooth. One the shims were out I used a sawzall to cut through the bolt on each side of the trailing arm. With the body off he will have easy access.
Because you have access to the bolt head and nut, use the saws-all on the outside of the pocket. Remove the shims, drive the bolt to one side and cut the opposite side flush, then reverse sides. There should be enough movement in the bolt to compensate for the thickness of the frame.
I also had to use a sawzall & cut between the TOTALLY RUSTED shims at both sides of BOTH of the trailing arms to cut the bolt out.....the shims were "WELDED" together from rust.....what a ROYAL PAIN....but I did it all myself....and put STAIN. STL. shims back in!!
Rebuilding the REAR suspension was FAR more involved....and TWICE as much $$ than doing the front suspension! Part of the increased cost was the fact that I had Gary in Illinois rebuild my trailing arms/bearings...and I put in the composite rear spring along wif Bilstein's.....I am totally impressed with the improvement!! Just keep a positive outlook on your venture...and the thought of all the $$$$ you'll save by doing as much as possible yourself.
Use a Sawzall. The good news is that the body is off the frame. I used carbide Torx 12" blades and a good amount of oil to keep the blade cool and lubricated. The cheap blades will wear out too quickly. Good luck with your project. Jerry
The bolt is rusted the sleeve inside the bushing in the trailing arm. You are going to have cut the bolt on the INSIDE and it will all come right would. You can try penetrating oil if you can get it between the bolt and sleeve, but honestly it will take you longer to that then to just cut it.
Because you have access to the bolt head and nut, use the saws-all on the outside of the pocket. Remove the shims, drive the bolt to one side and cut the opposite side flush, then reverse sides. There should be enough movement in the bolt to compensate for the thickness of the frame.
Well the shims are not going to be removed! The bolt goes though the shims, so had to cut the shims and the bolt together, what a pain.
To top it off, once the one cut on the bolt was done, the trailing arm wouldn't slide over to give me room to cut the other side , so i had to cut the shims and bolt together,again.
Yup, the early shims were drilled. The later ones were slotted (see my pic above)
Depending on your level of restore you may want to consider the slotted shims when you re-assemble your arms. Stainless shims are also available
M
Yup, the early shims were drilled. The later ones were slotted (see my pic above)
Depending on your level of restore you may want to consider the slotted shims when you re-assemble your arms. Stainless shims are also available
M
if you have a stick welder, the easiest fastest smartest way is to turn welder on highest setting and hit the bolt each side of arm... it literally blasts the metal bolt to oblivion and you can then slide the arm out... this is even better option on a frame off like yours but I did it with a frame on, fire extinguisher at the ready. go back with all stainless and antiseaze to boot. no access to welder? hire a mobile guy.... quick and easy
Last edited by jimvette999; Sep 16, 2016 at 04:12 PM.
Yup, the early shims were drilled. The later ones were slotted (see my pic above)
Depending on your level of restore you may want to consider the slotted shims when you re-assemble your arms. Stainless shims are also available
M
Just remember that if you use slotted shim you MUST put in the cotter pin to keep them from coming out. If you look at your top picture in the middle on the right side of that bolt you will see a small hole. That is where it goes. If you don't, you will lose them and have issue. I learned the hard way. The shims you have didn't need them as they were not slotted.
Just remember that if you use slotted shim you MUST put in the cotter pin to keep them from coming out. If you look at your top picture in the middle on the right side of that bolt you will see a small hole. That is where it goes. If you don't, you will lose them and have issue. I learned the hard way. The shims you have didn't need them as they were not slotted.
trailing arm bolt
Use a Sawzall. The good news is that the body is off the frame. I used carbide Torx 12" blades and a good amount of oil to keep the blade cool and lubricated. The cheap blades will wear out too quickly. Good luck with your project. Jerry
