trailing arm bolt

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Oct 4, 2016 | 09:49 AM

#21

tacosupreme

Intermediate

Joined: Dec 2005

Posts: 44

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From: Raleigh North Carolina

I just had the pleasure of spending the last few nights under the car with the sawzall removing these bolts myself. That is now on my top 2 WORST ever list. I'm now ready to install the replacement bushings.

What direction do the bushing sleeves need to be installed into the bushings from? Does it even matter? I can't seem to find any diagrams for this in the assembly manual or in any of the usual places.

Thanks!

Oct 4, 2016 | 11:06 AM

#22

Mooser

Race Director

Joined: Apr 2011

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From: North of Toronto - Ontario

Are you using rubber or poly?
M

Oct 4, 2016 | 06:33 PM

#23

tacosupreme

Intermediate

Joined: Dec 2005

Posts: 44

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From: Raleigh North Carolina

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mooser

Are you using rubber or poly?
M

original style rubber bushings

Oct 4, 2016 | 07:01 PM

#24

Mooser

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Joined: Apr 2011

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From: North of Toronto - Ontario

Although I can't see why it would matter, I believe every single one I've seen was staked on the outside (wheel side)

Remember they must be compressed before staking
M

Oct 4, 2016 | 07:15 PM

#25

DUB

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From: Charlotte NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mooser

Although I can't see why it would matter, I believe every single one I've seen was staked on the outside (wheel side)

Remember they must be compressed before staking
M

100%

The side you stake the bushings does not matter...BUT like 'Mooser' mentioned...I stake all of the trialing arms on the outboard side. This is because when I have my staking fixture tool installed. It can stay on the ground while I hammer the inner sleeve and stake it WHILE it is compressed in the tool.

JUST MAKE SURE....that when you stake the trailing arm bushing...you take a flat file or grinder and make sure that NONE of the inner sleeve you staked is ABOVE the surface of the flat outer washer. You want the shims to be against a totally flat washer surface.

DUB

Oct 5, 2016 | 06:56 AM

#26

Stephen Irons

Burning Brakes

Joined: Jan 2001

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From: Loir Valley Sarthe, France

2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified

2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified

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This post sort of goes hand-in-hand with mine ( https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rm-bushes.html )

Alas, I can't take much comfort from it!

This business of compressing the bushes is all new to me I'm afraid. DUB mentioned a video on YouTube? Anyone got a link to that? It sounds like something that is maybe easier over there, where the appropriate tools would be available, but not so easy here in sunny France!

I'm going to have to hunt out some "exploded view" diagrams I think, to understand the "staking" thing as well.

If money was no object I think Gary would have another job!

Oct 5, 2016 | 07:16 AM

#27

Mooser

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From: North of Toronto - Ontario

Here's what the basic tool looks like, there are fancier ones but this is the idea

Someone's home-made version, just as good if you can do it

Clamps onto arm, compresses the bushings to the correct width using the two outer bolts and guides the staking pin in the center

Can be staked with press or BFH

Clean up the end to make sure it's flat for the alignment shims

Oct 5, 2016 | 05:50 PM

#28

Richard Daugird

Melting Slicks

Joined: Dec 2015

Posts: 3,181

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From: Texas City, TX Texas

I guess when you hit it it flares out???

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Oct 5, 2016 | 06:20 PM

#29

Mooser

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From: North of Toronto - Ontario

Basically yup

You fully install the two bushings making sure they are fully seated.

Compress the inner parts down to measure 2.200-2.230 (Gary)

Stake the inner sleeve with a 45 deg tool to lock the 2.2xx dim in place

File off anything in the way to keep the surface flat for the shims
M

Oct 5, 2016 | 06:23 PM

#30

DUB

Race Director

Joined: Apr 2009

Posts: 19,294

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From: Charlotte NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard Daugird

I guess when you hit it it flares out???

YES...but that is because the tool you slide down to the sleeve to flare it is made to create an outward cone. And that outward cone matches the taper in the center of the special washer of the trailing arm bushing kit. You can clearly see teh tool with the point on it in the FIRST photo 'Mooser' posted in POST # 27.

DUB

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