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Thanks for the reference article, but most of the driving conditions in the article a human driving on the street cannot tell the difference.
Adding positive caster: (from the article)
• Generally improves straight-line stability, ( driving fast enough YES )
• Sharpens turn in. ( needs to be extreme )
• Improves traction everywhere in the turn. ( not on the street )
• Improves steering feel ( possible if way off )
• Improves self centering and self steer effect. ( if you drift )
eg blind test: ask the driver to take a test drive. Then make a castor change eg ( 2.75 - 4.7 ) then ask him to test drive again. His / Her response , it handles much better , feels better , I like it. Then to burst their bubble and tell then "you changed nothing"
Can you notice the difference in a car with better geometry. eg C3 vs C6 corvette, "yes" but only making 1 change caster in a C3 I will go with the blind test results.
If you use your car for track days please read the article. This effects you.
If you want the "wow" factor fix your suspension / alignment back to factory "NEW" condition. Get a proper alignment and go from there.
If your frame doesn't allow you to get proper caster then you need to look at other options (street use ).
For track day guys get something like SPC arms where you can adjust camber / caster in the arms.
To fix frame problems for street use Global West or similar solutions like slotted arms etc. (cannot get 2.75 caster)
OP asked, "I need to rebuild the front end, and am considering aftermarket, Global West upper control arms, possibly lowers if funds allow. Anyone running these that would give feedback I'd love to hear from."
Only person on this thread that has personal experience with GW CAs replied, ". . .and they are amazing money well spent. The car handles the twisty mountain roads of NC with ease. I highly recommend them without reservation!"
OP asked, "I need to rebuild the front end, and am considering aftermarket, Global West upper control arms, possibly lowers if funds allow. Anyone running these that would give feedback I'd love to hear from."
Only person on this thread that has personal experience with GW CAs replied, ". . .and they are amazing money well spent. The car handles the twisty mountain roads of NC with ease. I highly recommend them without reservation!"
Nuff said.
Even that guy didn't have the Global West control arms...
He had "the Global West Del-A-Lum bushings".
Nice ad to sell the product. But I noticed that again they applied all they learned from "racing" they applied to the design. To bad 98% of the corvette drivers "don't race" their cars.
I can understand someone using these for looks. or if there factory arms have been damaged, or because they can spend money on things that don't need replacing. But the OP already mentioned "if funds allow"
So the question is dose the cost justify the benefit ?
The "OP" will make that decision.
@ "$598.75" a pair upper only would anyone recommend these over the stock units he already has ?
Last edited by cagotzmann; Oct 11, 2016 at 08:38 PM.
OP asked, "I need to rebuild the front end, and am considering aftermarket, Global West upper control arms, possibly lowers if funds allow. Anyone running these that would give feedback I'd love to hear from."
Only person on this thread that has personal experience with GW CAs replied, ". . .and they are amazing money well spent. The car handles the twisty mountain roads of NC with ease. I highly recommend them without reservation!"
Nuff said.
I am disappointed with the difference between the stock and and the GW arms. Not at all worthwhile the $ IMO
My original post was looking for real world feedback on Global West control arms,....and it appears nobody uses them. I searched online for reviews, opinions,.....nada. Which raises my radar to heightened sensitivity. If they do in fact make a dramatic difference,...why is nobody using them. How about other brand tubular control arms?
"So the question is dose the cost justify the benefit ?
The "OP" will make that decision."
This too is my concern. There are a lot of other places to spend money for no good reason. Just bought a set of AFR 210 Eliminators, and do plan to swap them on with my Vic Jr,....when I get the time.
So I guess the front end will just get a set of bushings and ball joints for now. Maybe even a fresh coat of Rust oleum semi gloss black.
The down side to the SPC Arms is no bump stop's. So you need shocks with travel limiters. Nice thing they are completely adjustable within a range.
I was able to get 4.7 caster and could adjust for more, but I started at factory 2.7 then tried 4.7 and really didn't notice any changes on the street. But my last track day got snowed out so I couldn't test the 4.7 setup at the track.
I think the reason that you are not getting many responses is that there's been heated conversation on here before... I have them, and am very happy with them. To get 5-6degrees caster you will need probably .5 to 1 degrees neg camber, which is what you want for ideal handling and tyre wear anyway (-0.5 to -1 for ideal tyre wear on a spiritedly driven car, -1 to -1.5 for ideal handling sacrificing tyre wear on a hard driven car). Most people who are unhappy with the result are still in the standard 0 to 0.5 positive camber range, which will result in worse handling and (marginally) tyre wear. I am very happy with them, as are others who use them as intended. If you check recommended alignment specs by vbp, global west, ridetech or any other performance suspension supplier you'll find they all recommend a little neg camber and for good reason. I have -1.5 camber and 5.5 degrees caster and could run more caster without increasing the neg camber, or could maintain the caster and run less neg camber, as I still have a thick shim in each front bolt. I choose my settings for handling at a small cost to tyre wear. How many people actually wear their tyres out on these cars before they need replacing due to age anyway? I'll still get plenty of mileage (10,000+ miles) out of mine unless I do too many track events.
The down side to the SPC Arms is no bump stop's. So you need shocks with travel limiters. Nice thing they are completely adjustable within a range.
I was able to get 4.7 caster and could adjust for more, but I started at factory 2.7 then tried 4.7 and really didn't notice any changes on the street. But my last track day got snowed out so I couldn't test the 4.7 setup at the track.
The shims will vary from car to car, not sure thats relevant.
The shims will vary from car to car, not sure thats relevant.
The number of shims and/or their thicknesses...mean nothing.
Originally Posted by SH-60B
I don't know why I even bother....
I fell the same way at times...but I also know there are some members who read this stuff and do not reply and the information can actually HELP...so...do not throw in the towel.
so i guess the question shifted to ..are all the tubular arms the same aside from looks?vbp,speed direct , van steel etc...i was looking at the global west ones as well just like the OP.
Last edited by Bigeddie; Oct 13, 2016 at 06:18 PM.
so i guess the question shifted to ..are all the tubular arms the same aside from looks?vbp,speed direct , van steel etc...i was looking at the global west ones as well just like the OP.
I guess you are right...I previously commented on how I have installed the Global West bushings in the control arms...and the owner responded.
BUT...I often times wonder IF the reason the tubular arms are being changed and installed is because the Corvette it really being put through its paces on a track.
If the car is being driven from time to time on the street with some 'spirit'....I would not use a tubular arms.
I guess it has a lot to do with how hard someone is 'pushing' the limits of the stamped steel control arms and suspension...and then also gets into good tires and so on..
I guess you didn't understand what I was trying to figure out.
I will assume 0 shims in the front to reference the difference front vs rear, where the actual shim amount doesn't matter.
case 1
stock arms front of arm = 0 shims back of arm = 3 x 1/8 shim = 2.75 degree's
case 2
global west arms front of arm = 0 shims back of = 1 x 1/8 shim = 3.75 degree's
this would show the arms designed with extra caster and would show how much extra caster in the design. So their video ads claims 5-6 but based on your results there cannot be that much difference from the stock arms if the same shim stack is used ?
With my SPC Arms vs stock I need to shim 2x 1/8" difference from the front to get 2.7 degree's and the SPC arms I don't need any shim difference to get 4.7 degree's
One should really go buy the Moog units with the meaty square pad if they are going to slot (if you don't want to die!). And I would put a plug in, so it doesn't slip!