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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 05:47 PM
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Default 71 handling

would like to make this 71 a little safer up to about 80 mph without it wanting to go its own way. put a set of bilsteins on the front.koni's on the rear,new idler arm,rebuilt the power steering control valve,tie rod ends and ball joints look ok. i like it so far but i think it can be better. steering shaft has about .020 up and down movement when i lift up on the wheel and has about 3/16 play when i move the shaft at the rag. rag seems ok. is this play acceptable? box looks stock and looks like it's never been removed. tightened it up about 1/4 turn on the adjustment on top.don't want or need a road racer but i like to open it up a little every once in a while and would like to go straight. 235-60's bfg's: on all 4's. so far these improvements made it much better. thanks
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 10:21 PM
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Did you center the control valve?
Are you sure the ball joints are okay?
The lash adjustment on the steering gear box is set by the inch lbs of drag so just tightening it up a 1/4 of a turn may or may not be a good thing.

To set the backlash, turn box to one side or the other.. then rotate the upper shaft at the gear box. Your looking for around 7 inch lbs until you start to get close to center.. then when on center you should hit about 14 inch lbs and this will decrease as you pass center back to around 7... when you hit these readings lock down the lash adjustment nut.

Willcox

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Oct 31, 2016 at 10:23 PM.
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 11:13 PM
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"Going it's own way" can mean lots of things. If it wanders it could be any number of things like worn A-arm bushings, really loose wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc, etc. Before you throw tons of money at parts get it aligned and see what happens.
Good luck.
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 12:09 AM
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Remember it's an independent rear, if the trailing arm bushings are worn or loose the car will tend to rear steer. Also if the rear is out of alignment it will track terrible.
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 05:10 AM
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Even if all the steering and suspension gear is good in a Corvette, if there is not some amount of TOE-IN put on the front wheels, it WILL wander around. 1/16" to 1/8" toe-in will make a small, light car with wide tires track much better than setting toe at "neutral" adjustment (0" toe).
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 09:03 AM
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Default steering

thank you for your reply. control valve worked good before but leaked and the rubber seal was shot. rebuilt it per your video.centered it per repair manual and went good. with what i have done so far it is much improved then before. there is about 5 miles of fresh blacktop out where i live and i can really feel the difference. i feel much safer now.i have rebuilt a couple steering boxes before and i suspect i'll do this one next. messing with the adjusting nut was just a quick band aid move to see what happened. this was a low mileage 71 and i would say the suspension needs some attention. just trying to nurse a few more months out of it. i'll be looking for your steering box tech. as my next move.
Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
Did you center the control valve?
Are you sure the ball joints are okay?
The lash adjustment on the steering gear box is set by the inch lbs of drag so just tightening it up a 1/4 of a turn may or may not be a good thing.

To set the backlash, turn box to one side or the other.. then rotate the upper shaft at the gear box. Your looking for around 7 inch lbs until you start to get close to center.. then when on center you should hit about 14 inch lbs and this will decrease as you pass center back to around 7... when you hit these readings lock down the lash adjustment nut.

Willcox
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 09:08 AM
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Default going straight

thanks for the reply. i was telling my friends that this 71 was bitter sweet. sweet that everything was there since 71 and bitter cause it looks like it could need some attention. i'll continue to slug away at the parts from the small things to the big stuff.thanks
Originally Posted by stumpshot
"Going it's own way" can mean lots of things. If it wanders it could be any number of things like worn A-arm bushings, really loose wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc, etc. Before you throw tons of money at parts get it aligned and see what happens.
Good luck.
Stump
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 09:10 AM
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Default steering

thanks for the reply. mom always said when the castle is done the king is dead. looks like this castle is going to take some time. thanks again
Originally Posted by BLUE1972


Remember it's an independent rear, if the trailing arm bushings are worn or loose the car will tend to rear steer. Also if the rear is out of alignment it will track terrible.
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 09:14 AM
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Default steering

was just kind of wondering if the shaft play up and down at the wheel is acceptable and if it may need some bushing repair. sitting in the car and moving the wheel up and down about .020 seems like it could be better.
Originally Posted by cdw
thanks for the reply. mom always said when the castle is done the king is dead. looks like this castle is going to take some time. thanks again
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 01:40 PM
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I don't believe that the steering wheel should have any 'looseness' in it. There are bearings in the head and at the bottom of the shaft to keep things centered and tight. Obviously, all things wear....
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BLUE1972


Remember it's an independent rear, if the trailing arm bushings are worn or loose the car will tend to rear steer. Also if the rear is out of alignment it will track terrible.
Like blue 1972 says don't count out the rear with the IRS. Worn components in the rear can make the steering and car feel squirly. Everything in my front suspension is rebuilt, replaced, or upgraded but recently I had a squirly rear under moderate acceleration especially on uneven pavement. I know its not my competition adjustable heim jointed strut rods (stock type struts can allow way too much movement), but my Trailing arms are OEM originals never touched (could be the rear bearings or TA bushings) AND the rear diff yolk from the half shafts is showing considerable play (about 1/8-1/4 inch movement in and out of the diff). I am having the TA rebuilt and will check the half shafts and the diff yolk when the TA's are removed. Could also be the C clip on the Diff yolk in the diff may have come off.

Point is there are many areas to investigate for uneven handling on the C3. I may end up having the diff rebuilt, half shaft u joints replaced and the TA's rebuilt...ouch in my pocket......

Last edited by jb78L-82; Nov 1, 2016 at 03:06 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 07:16 PM
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As above, I had what I thought was front suspension/steering issues, car was unstable and moving around on the road - solved once I rebuilt the rear suspension.
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 07:38 PM
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From: carroll ohio
Default suspension

thanks for the reply. i like the car so it looks like i'll visit all the areas you talked about. i look at those areas then i look at my wallet. looks like everything in the rear is 71 vintage.
Originally Posted by jb78L-82
Like blue 1972 says don't count out the rear with the IRS. Worn components in the rear can make the steering and car feel squirly. Everything in my front suspension is rebuilt, replaced, or upgraded but recently I had a squirly rear under moderate acceleration especially on uneven pavement. I know its not my competition adjustable heim jointed strut rods (stock type struts can allow way too much movement), but my Trailing arms are OEM originals never touched (could be the rear bearings or TA bushings) AND the rear diff yolk from the half shafts is showing considerable play (about 1/8-1/4 inch movement in and out of the diff). I am having the TA rebuilt and will check the half shafts and the diff yolk when the TA's are removed. Could also be the C clip on the Diff yolk in the diff may have come off.

Point is there are many areas to investigate for uneven handling on the C3. I may end up having the diff rebuilt, half shaft u joints replaced and the TA's rebuilt...ouch in my pocket......
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 07:44 PM
  #14  
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Default wheel

thanks for the reply. thats what i was thinking. steering column looks pretty complicated but i would really like to get that play taken out. i'll have to study the AIM and maybe make this a winter project.
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
I don't believe that the steering wheel should have any 'looseness' in it. There are bearings in the head and at the bottom of the shaft to keep things centered and tight. Obviously, all things wear....
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 07:48 PM
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Default rebuilding stuff

thanks for the reply. po did not replace anything on this vette.all looks like 71 vintage underneath. soon as some of these cuts heal on my knuckles i'll start again.
Originally Posted by Metalhead140
As above, I had what I thought was front suspension/steering issues, car was unstable and moving around on the road - solved once I rebuilt the rear suspension.
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