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Both my Strut rods are bent and, I'm guessing this was a attempt to align it. I picked up some new ones now I'm second guessing if maybe I should have went with the adjustable ones. The car has 80 k on the clock. What if any issues should I be looking for as far as the bent rods could be masking?
Hi c,
I think often the sledge hammer was used on the rods because the person doing the 'alignment' didn't know how to properly do it.
Using the original type strut rod requires that the 2 adjustment cams be free to rotate in the center strut rod mounting bracket.
Regards,
Alan
If you get the adjustable type, be sure they have a provision for not loosening over time. I came home from one trip and both rear wheels looked like the lug nuts had fallen off.
Ralph
I don't think bent strut rods will be masking anything other than worn out strut rod bushings. If you don't care about "original" you can go with the aftermarket adjustable ones that are much easier to set up. Early C3's had smaller bushings and rod ends but you can use the later rods on both early and later C3's. The trouble with them is when they wear you get excessive negative camber which causes the bushings to wear even more. The stock ones are kind of trial and error to set up perfectly. Adjust, drive, measure, adjust again.... I use 0 degrees camber on mine but you can go with whatever you want. Also the shock mounts can sometimes be a pain to remove so you might want to soak them first with whatever you normally use and you might think about using a knock out tool to protect the threads on the mount. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward.
My guess would be sometime during its life someone used a jack under them to lift the car.To beat on them to bend to align seems far out there.But then again?!
Last edited by gjohnson; Dec 16, 2016 at 11:36 AM.
My guess would be sometime during its life someone used a jack under them to lift the car.To beat on them to bend to align seems far out there.But then again?!
Thanks for the input guys. I haven't really found anything on this car that suggests someone pulled a Bubba. I remember way back when I worked in a tire shop and they used to bend the Ford Twin I beam system with a Porto power. Which I'm thinking may have happened here. I m gonna try these standard struts . I'll post the outcome it may take awhile
Hi c,
I think often the sledge hammer was used on the rods because the person doing the 'alignment' didn't know how to properly do it.
Using the original type strut rod requires that the 2 adjustment cams be free to rotate in the center strut rod mounting bracket.
Regards,
Alan
When all else fails, Bubba just used the BFH instead of doing it the right way....LOL
Why not straighten yours? I did mine, quite easy. And the rods are under tension not compression, so it is no big issue to get them NASA grade straight.
I would Highly recommend the competition adjustable strut rods with heim joints instead of bushings...I have had mine for 10+ years and they are light years ahead of the stock strut rods, no strut rod flex, no bushings to wear out or squeak (poly), holds alignment perfectly. Ride is firm but NOT harsh!
I would Highly recommend the competition adjustable strut rods with heim joints instead of bushings...I have had mine for 10+ years and they are light years ahead of the stock strut rods, no strut rod flex, no bushings to wear out or squeak (poly), holds alignment perfectly. Ride is firm but NOT harsh!
Nice looking setup and better price than other places.
I made my own by adding heim joints to a setup that had the poly ends in it.
Check out my thread on this from early this year.
Bought everything I needed fittings wise from Ruff Stuff Specialties.
The reason that these strut rods are often times bent is because the car will not align by using the concentric bolt...and it is either due to bad strut rod bushings.....OR...and this is what is worse....the amount of end play in the side yokes of the differential are so excessive that the concentric bolts (cam bolts) that are used to adjust the strut rods cannot adjust them due severely worn parts and the concentric bolt can not pull teh bottom of the tire in far enough.
I am only commenting on what I have seen and experienced.
I also agree...greaseable heim joint style is the way to go.
I would Highly recommend the competition adjustable strut rods with heim joints instead of bushings...I have had mine for 10+ years and they are light years ahead of the stock strut rods, no strut rod flex, no bushings to wear out or squeak (poly), holds alignment perfectly. Ride is firm but NOT harsh!
If you want you can send them to me along with a new bushing set, I will glass bead and straighten them and press in new bushings no charge. Just cover the shipping.
[QUOTE=68notray;1593710751]If you want you can send them to me along with a new bushing set, I will glass bead and straighten them and press in new bushings no charge. Just cover the shipping. Thanks but, I have a new set. A very generous offer
If you want you can send them to me along with a new bushing set, I will glass bead and straighten them and press in new bushings no charge. Just cover the shipping. Thanks but, I have a new set. A very generous offer
My experience has been that the geometry of the rear is dependent on one very important thing and that is the arch in the rear spring. If there is no arch the spring has gone straight which has two issues, one the length is longer which causes the needed movement of the eccentric bolts not to have enough travel to pull the bottom of the rear wheels in and thus you have negative camber. The other is you car rides like a wagon with no springs. Arch is necessary so the rear suspension can flex as was designed. Adjustable rods will give the necessary travel to adjust the camber on the rear wheels but if the spring has gone straight your ride is terrible.
My experience has been that the geometry of the rear is dependent on one very important thing and that is the arch in the rear spring. If there is no arch the spring has gone straight which has two issues, one the length is longer which causes the needed movement of the eccentric bolts not to have enough travel to pull the bottom of the rear wheels in and thus you have negative camber. The other is you car rides like a wagon with no springs. Arch is necessary so the rear suspension can flex as was designed. Adjustable rods will give the necessary travel to adjust the camber on the rear wheels but if the spring has gone straight your ride is terrible.