Mitt vac sucks. If you don't have a good seal, you are sucking air into the system.

Gravity bleed for now, but order a pressure bleeder. They work great since you are forcing the fluid through the system.

 

Pun intended?


Yea, I'm taking this piece of @#$# back to O'Reilly's...


Adam

 

Assuming that the Master Cylinder is toast, or on it's way to toast, (I'm still going to do the old-school 2 person bleed today- my wife decided to support my sanity and help me out when the toddlers take a nap.) anyone familiar with this SSBC Aluminum Master Cylinder?


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...model/corvette
$98 for aluminum sounds like a GREAT deal to me...

Adam

 

I have one. No issues. Takes a few pounds off the car.

 

I'd purchase a Motive pressure bleeder. Until then gravity bleed.

 

that fuel line coming from the metal line to thefuel pump is a molded hose, order it now or else the fuel line will kink on you when it warms up from engine heat,(ask me how I know). it could be the fuel pump leaking also, you know how to change them??/ I am coming to Washington next July, want me to stop and help???

 

YES! Success!

Manual bleeding all the way!


I re-bled all the lines today with help from my lovely assistant; I did the front wheels in backward order accidentally but it was the front right that actually let out a ton of air and now the pedals are rock-solid! I mean REALLY rock solid -locked up the brakes fully a few times testing them out.



-I've also made progress on finding my gas leak- bubba (the original GM dealer in LaCrosse, IN) cut the stainless gas line from the fuel pump to the carb and replaced it with rubber hose and stainless worm clamps at the fuel pump, then the original steel line and then rubber again at the carb. It drips from here for a little while after I turn it off until the fuel there has drained out and then it stops.


My parking brake issue is worse than I thought while the lever is "off" the parking brake is actually slight on- perpetually on. explains the grinding noises when taking off coming from the rear, too.



The passenger side door now is locked and won't unlock even from the inside so 1 1/2 steps forward; and 1 step back.


Adam

 

Buy an AIM for your model year and it will explain setting the parking brake correctly. If you dont have any rust problems it may just be adjusted wrong. It will also show the door assembly so you can figure out whats wrong. I had that problem and the linkage had actually fallen apart because it was missing a locking clamp.

I would start another thread about the door lock. Someone can PM you on how to pick it/slim jim it

 

Newb:
GLAD 2 hear U got yer brakes workin' GR8!! It's a warm & fuzzy feelin', isn't it!!

 

KISS works most times. No need to over think a lot of repairs on these vehicles. Glad to hear your brakes are sorted out. One step at a time, newb!

 

Congrats on getting the brakes working. Now try and figure out why you needed to bleed them. You say the calipers and rotors were swapped out less than a yr ago. It's going to happen again.
The master cylinder as you say is original. The car has probably sat for extended periods of time. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. Master cylinders are produced from cheap cast steel, are not sleeved, and will rust. There are rubber seals mounted on a piston that slide back and forth inside the bore. A rebuild kit costs about $20. A new master cylinder maybe $60. I guarantee you, your brakes are only temporarily fixed. But now you have learned the correct bleeding process, so you'll get to do this again to instill it in your memory.
Fwiw. Been doing my brakes for about 50 yrs, still just use my significant other, or whoever is handy to pump the pedal.
When u change out your master cylinder, and u will, bench bleed it before installation.
I have also learned that a corvette will pump air into the system if your rotors are not almost perfectly true (runout less than .004) it's the design of the system that allows this.
Have also learned that sleeved calipers can leak fluid between the sleeve and caliper bore.
I have also learned that Wilwood calipers work better than the factory p.o.s. units and don't cost that much more when rebuilding the entire brake system, plus they are lighter and look cooler!

 

Thanks for this.

I didn't know that it could be the fuel pump leaking... I also didn't know it required a specific molded hose.

I think I'm going to press ahead with my EFI conversion instead of fixing this unless I can prove that it's just the cheap rubber hose. -New sender, new pump, all new lines and no need for the old fuel pump.



Adam

 

I think it was adjusted wrong by the guys that installed the transmission and new cross-member. They had to move the parking brake to accommodate the new cross member and the cross member's parking brake bracket/ wheel/ pulley thingy.

The parking brake wire is taut even when it's supposed to be off- I think they just adjusted it too tight. I talked to the trans swap people on the phone this morning and it sounds pretty easy to adjust. I'm going to start a new thread on this.



Adam

 

This is exactly what I'm afraid of. I don't know how to find the source of the air bubbles... I'm hoping that one of the bleeder valves just wasn't quite closed all the way and slowly leaked in.... ??


I just went and checked the detailed list of items that were replaced in 2014 (I have detailed records); the Master Cylinder actually WAS replaced. It was just so rusty, I ASSUMED it wasn't replaced. (I wasn't the owner when all the work was done- my parents were.)



Adam

 

I bought my vette from a guy that was flippng it. When I got it home the brakes were the same as yours. I had air and fluid in my lines and after finally getting it bled and working, I haven't had 1 issue since I did it over a year ago. Not an issue. I wouldnt worry about until they vet spongy again. Just pay attention and do routine maintenance and you won't have any surprises.

I will be upgrading to power brakes just for the added power that my old legs don't supply like they used too.

 

Sounds like you're well on your way to having most of your issues sorted. For the wheels/wheel nuts, buy some nuts with reduced head/hex size so you can get a normal socket or wheel brace on them, they look like this:

 

Glad you are in business with the brakes! Just take one issue at a time or you will be overwhelmed.
But my reason to respond was to suggest that you do not return that mityvac. It will become one of your most important tools when you start chasing vacuum leaks.
I didn't use it for my brakes but it seams that I need it on every second problem I address.
Good luck!
Pete