I will be doing a break job soon, I think I am going to have the calipers sent out and re done, keeping the originals. Any suggestions and / or gotcha information would be appreciated. Also I live in Western Mass any one have info on a experienced C3 mechanic would be great too. Thanks. PS I posted this in General but thought it was more appropriate here.

 

If you want your originals rebuilt, check with the rebuilder to ensure they will return your four to you. Some of the outfitters work only on an exchange basis and will not guarantee you get your four returned.

 

I plan on using Muskegon( http://www.muskegonbrake.com ) I E Mailed them and they will even exchange an replacement Calipair with a date correct casting for an extra 20$. There re build service looks good. OH yea I will be changing out the break fluid too, what is the best way to do this, really get the system cleared out, and is there a solvent to clean out the system?

 

FYI - brake, not break.

 

Hi Phil,
Have you checked the casting numbers on your current caliper halves?
I ask because I think it would be pretty remarkable for the originals to have lasted this long…. but it's also possible that a previous owner had the originals sleeved.
So the numbers will tell the tale!
IF they are the originals for your car, they're pretty nice to have!
Regards,
Alan

 

first thing measure brake rotor thickness for acceptable min. thickness.
if ok resurface them, ... if not buy new replacements.

 

Hi 69,
Maybe a momentary 'brain freeze'….. isn't it the rotor that needs to be checked for thickness, not the caliper?
Regards,
Alan

 

denatured alcohol will do the job.. get it at paint store or home depot

 

One of the first things I found after I purchased my "all original, numbers matching" '73 was that the original owner had swapped out the brake calipers for cheap rebuilds from Auto Zone. I found the receipts in the stacks of paperwork he had saved through the years. I pulled the wheels and verified that the calipers had been changed along with a set of front rotors. I'm replacing my calipers and rotors with a new set all around from Wilwood.

 

If you are flushing the brake lines to get them clean...then you might want to consider another master cylinder.

If you get one...the master cylinder ALSO has a specific casting number on it and it is stamped also.

Because if you wash out the lines and do nothing to the master cylinder...you are wasting your time due to the amount of sludge and crap that is in the piston area of the master cylinder. And thinking that filling it up with the product mentioned to flush out the lines and thinking that it will clean out the piston area is just not going to happen. The master cylinder would need to be taken apart to clean it.

And this is assuming that the bottom of your master cylinder reservoirs...you have black sludge film sittign/collecting on the bottom of the reservoirs.

If I had to put a percentage on how many good master cylinders I have taken apart due to the system is being cleaned like you are planning. I would have to 'say' that maybe 2 in 10 are fairly clean in the piston area of the master cylinder. Most of the time when I get into having to deal with brakes...the owner has NOT kept up on the brake fluid inspection and change-out interval...and thus...the brake fluid looks like black coffee and sludge is beginning to build up/collect in the reservoirs.

I assume you have the 'know-how' and manual that you can reference to make sure your brakes are done correctly.

In case you don't...or someone needs it. The rotors MINIMAL THICKNESS ( which means that this amount and thinner MUST be discarded) is 1.215"

If you resurface the rotor. It should not cut cut less than 1.230"

KEEP IN MIND when measuring the thickness....also look the the thickness of EACH SIDE of the brake surface of the rotor. You want them basically the same out past the slots where the cooling fins are cast into the rotor. SO...even though it may measure out to a good thickness....but one side it really thick but the other side is razor thin. It is time for a new rotor.

Bearing run-out and your rotors being correct in regards to their run-out is ALSO important and should NOT be over looked and should be checked with a dial indicator due to a 1965-1982 Corvettes brake system is unique because the brake calipers do not float on pins. They are bolted stationary to the trailing arm. Also replace your brake hoses...if you were wondering about that.

DUB

 

GREAT information, Thanks you all very much. I will take all this into account.

 

front and rear rotor, are different do not mix them up.

 

If your car has rubber brake hoses on it you might want to put new Stainless Braided hoses on it. I just installed a set and they cost $110 at ZIP Corvette products. That has to be the best upgrade for the money paid..

I have a "Phoenix Systems" Brake bleeder that makes flushing the lines so easy that I actually change the fluid every five years now on my cars. It can push the fluid either direction which helps get the bubbles out. A great tool that will pay for itself quickly.

Good luck!

 

I have discovered both front Calipers are replacements, and the Parking brake is not holding well. I am starting to think the way to go is a total brake system replacement, Calipers, Rotors, Master Cylinder, and lines, the entire system. I would do the parking brake components as well.
Looks to me like some components have been done in the recent past, however if I am going to get into the brakes I should take care of the entire system? I will be trying to stay as original as possible; I think I can get date correct castings, and there may be some complete brake “kits” out there? Thoughts? Thanks again. I am still very new to the C3 Corvette world and all that comes with it.

 

I would only replace parts if they aren't serviceable i.e. worn out. I'm still using my original park brake shoes! Follow the factory service manual or advice in here to setup your brake system. Replace all your brake fluid with DOT 3 or 4. I would remove your calipers and break them in two and have a look inside to ensure the fluid inside is not gunk. Ask me how I know. If they are full of gunk, just clean them up and re-install. Flush lines with new fluid and bleed brakes. Check for leaks.

 

I'll be doing a full body off modification of my car starting next year, so replacing everything in my braking system will be fairly easy. Once I found that my calipers and rotors on all four had been replaced I figured that I would upgrade the entire system and replace all brake lines. Corvette Central has numerous stock replacement solutions that are not pricey. I'm opting to go with Wilwood master cylinder and upgrade kits all around, including calipers, slotted and drilled rotors, light weight hats, new bearings, mounting brackets, stainless flex lines and all the mounting hardware. They offer 4 and 6 piston kits for the front and 4 piston kits in the rear that will fit with 15" wheels. The tolerances are tight so make exact measurements before you swap out to any other calipers over stock replacements. SSBC also makes replacement kits for 15" wheels and they offer stock replacement 4 piston calipers. SSBC just came out with an awesome looking 8 piston front and rear upgrade kit that will very easily fit into 15" wheels.

 

Hi Phil,
Since it sounds like you may be considering 'everything' I'll mention that although stainless steel lines look nice, and will out last all of us, they're quite difficult to work with compared to the original Bundy steel lines.
The ss is VERY stiff so is a bit of work to install well with the body on the chassis and also is sometimes a bit difficult to get a good seal with at the blocks, calipers, etc.
Just something to consider.
I had ss lines on my car and decided to change all the lines back to Bundy steel because I found it difficult to get a good seal at the flared fittings.
Regards,
Alan

It's possible to replace the single long brake line running from the distribution block along the left frame rail back to the kick-up with the body in place but takes some time and ingenuity.
The front cross-over takes some work too, but the rear cross-over is pretty straight forward.

 

Brakes are not difficult to rebuild. I sent you a PM because you are in the next town over. I gave you my cell .

 

I did not see a PM?

 

The Bundy steel lines are a softer and easier to work with tubing over the stainless. I've used stainless tubing for years and while it does last a lifetime it is harder to bend and flare the ends to get a good seal. If you go with SS tubing purchase good quality bending and flaring tools as it helps. If you take a little polish to the stainless lines, they shine up really nice and add a nice touch in the engine compartment.