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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 07:49 PM
  #61  
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Default Hood

Originally Posted by ronarndt
I added a dropped air cleaner bottom piece (K&N part 87-3549) to give hood clearance. It drops 1 1/4 inch so the wing nut would not hit the hood. The PO apparently forgot about clearance, since there are spider vein cracks in the paint where he slammed the hood on the wing nut. I had this setup when I had it dyno-ed last time. Even with the bb hood there is not enough room for a three inch thick filter with the intake I have.
What hood do you have on the car for clearance or plan on using?
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 02:22 PM
  #62  
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Default hood


long style big block hood similar to L-88

Originally Posted by bigvette1
What hood do you have on the car for clearance or plan on using?
The PO installed an aftermarket hood that is a "long" style that eliminates the wiper door and has a raised center section similar to the L-88 hood. The attached dyno photo has the hood raised to show its shape.
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 02:31 PM
  #63  
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Default valve tool

Originally Posted by ajrothm
BTW I've never seen that Moroso valve spring tool that checks pressures with the springs on the head and rocker arms still on, thats a handy tool I wouldn't mind having.

I need to check my spring pressure, (although I'm afraid to know).... I have about 17k miles on my springs now and I'm sure they are ready....
JEGS is running a special on the Moroso tool- $84.99. If you order something else to get the order to $100, shipping is free. Part #710-62390. Works only on aftermarket rockers, since it needs an edge to grip when you pull on it to get a reading. Works like an old style torque wrench with the spring beam pointer.
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 07:38 PM
  #64  
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Default final dyno run


68 corvette 454 after installing new valve springs to cure valve float

Originally Posted by ajrothm
Awesome job man! Glad to hear its fixed. Hopefully the dyno treats you right..

As per our PMs, I've done the valve spring dance several times and I know how tedious it is but....it HAS to be right.

Good job on sticking with it and working through the issue.

Keep us posted on the dyno numbers.. I'm guessing it does 350 rwhp...
Took the car to the dyno today. Printout is attached. The car pulled strong right up to 6000 rpm for three runs. 338 rwhp and 359 ft lbs torque was a little less than I hoped for, but at least the motor is running properly now. I should have quit while I was ahead, however. The technician running the dyno suggested doing a fourth run -for free- so I said OK. At about 6000 rpm the water pump seized, the fan belt flew off and I got to have the car brought home on a roll-back. You just can't win. So I have my new Autozone water pump and new fan belt on my work bench ready for tomorrow's next adventure in Corvette restoration. Down but not out. RA
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 07:58 PM
  #65  
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At least it didnt happen in traffic know it doesnt make things any better.
Springs make all the difference in the world sounds like things are coming together on your end

Had mine compressed for well over a yr almost wonder if-dread it
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 08:02 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ronarndt

68 corvette 454 after installing new valve springs to cure valve float


Took the car to the dyno today. Printout is attached. The car pulled strong right up to 6000 rpm for three runs. 338 rwhp and 359 ft lbs torque was a little less than I hoped for, but at least the motor is running properly now. I should have quit while I was ahead, however. The technician running the dyno suggested doing a fourth run -for free- so I said OK. At about 6000 rpm the water pump seized, the fan belt flew off and I got to have the car brought home on a roll-back. You just can't win. So I have my new Autozone water pump and new fan belt on my work bench ready for tomorrow's next adventure in Corvette restoration. Down but not out. RA

Well congrats on solving the RPM problem. I'm sure with some timing tweaking and playing with jetting, you could get another 10-15 rwhp out of it but...its definitely pretty close.

Pretty scary about the fan coming off, that would have been terrible if you or someone else had been standing beside it.

Out of curiousity, was this dyno pull with the air cleaner lid on?

So to recap, you went from 305 rwhp before the rebuild to 338 rwhp after? basically gained 33 rwhp from a head/cam swap. If that engine had about 2pts of compression more, you'd probably be much closer to 400 rwhp. Eitherway, you'll have a fun summer now tearing up the streets.
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 10:57 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
Well congrats on solving the RPM problem. I'm sure with some timing tweaking and playing with jetting, you could get another 10-15 rwhp out of it but...its definitely pretty close.

Pretty scary about the fan coming off, that would have been terrible if you or someone else had been standing beside it.

Out of curiousity, was this dyno pull with the air cleaner lid on?

So to recap, you went from 305 rwhp before the rebuild to 338 rwhp after? basically gained 33 rwhp from a head/cam swap. If that engine had about 2pts of compression more, you'd probably be much closer to 400 rwhp. Eitherway, you'll have a fun summer now tearing up the streets.

"If that engine had about 2pts of compression more" Right- I gained about 30 HP (air cleaner off gained 5 hp on this run and also the last run). I considered bumping the compression with domed pistons but did not want to pull the engine to do the balancing act. Since the car is just a weekend cruiser, I am going to resist spending more $$$$ to add HP that I will never use. The car now has a more radical idle to scare off the Hondas and the aluminum heads look impressive. I also have the air cleaner sticker that boasts of 460 HP. Thanks for your help diagnosing the valve spring problem. RA
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 11:02 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
At least it didnt happen in traffic know it doesnt make things any better.
Springs make all the difference in the world sounds like things are coming together on your end

Had mine compressed for well over a yr almost wonder if-dread it

"At least it didnt happen in traffic " My thoughts exactly. The car does not have A/C or power steering, so the water pump is easy to replace. I was surprised the new, not re-built, water pump was only $42 at Autozone for their heavy duty pump. Just one more repair to do.
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 12:29 AM
  #69  
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If you want a lighter one I'm using this one with no issues. Direct bolt on.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19168602
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 02:16 AM
  #70  
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Don't forget, you'll also knocked about 80lbs off of the nose of the car.. that's good for a tenth and 1-2 mph.

Another place you can find some power if you want to put the effort in, is switch to an electric fan. My 7 blade clutch fan with the severe duty clutch cost me 15 rwhp on the dyno, same day A-B-A test. However, this will require an alternator and wiring upgrade. A bonus is it's not going to fly off and checking timing is much easier.

Last edited by ajrothm; Mar 7, 2017 at 02:18 AM.
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 09:47 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
Don't forget, you'll also knocked about 80lbs off of the nose of the car.. that's good for a tenth and 1-2 mph.

Another place you can find some power if you want to put the effort in, is switch to an electric fan. My 7 blade clutch fan with the severe duty clutch cost me 15 rwhp on the dyno, same day A-B-A test. However, this will require an alternator and wiring upgrade. A bonus is it's not going to fly off and checking timing is much easier.

"switch to an electric fan" I had an electric fan on the alum radiator from the PO. I upgraded to a temperature relay so the fan did not run all the time. PO had it direct wired. I kept the Flex-o-lite fan that was there- not needed, but belt and suspenders type mentality. I have all of this stuff off to install the water pump, so I may just leave the fan on the work bench. (another 15 rwhp) BTW- the fan belt flew off, not the fan. I did not even notice it. One of the techs watching spotted it. RA
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 09:51 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by ddawson
If you want a lighter one I'm using this one with no issues. Direct bolt on.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19168602

Thanks. The pump I ordered today at Autozone is an aluminum one like this for about half the Summit price.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 03:31 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by ronarndt
Thanks. The pump I ordered today at Autozone is an aluminum one like this for about half the Summit price.
I hope it turns out to be a short pump.

Yeah I'd do the electric fan for sure since you already have it, IF its a good one... You don't want to create over heating problems you didn't have before.

I use a Lincoln MK8 fan and it works EXCELLENT..(I average 185-188* with AC on in the middle of summer and the fan cycling on/off)...I can manually override the fan to stay on and it will get into the 170*s on a 95* day with the ac on.


Dual 11" spal fans work pretty well also and pull less amps.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 09:08 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
I hope it turns out to be a short pump.

Yeah I'd do the electric fan for sure since you already have it, IF its a good one... You don't want to create over heating problems you didn't have before.

I use a Lincoln MK8 fan and it works EXCELLENT..(I average 185-188* with AC on in the middle of summer and the fan cycling on/off)...I can manually override the fan to stay on and it will get into the 170*s on a 95* day with the ac on.


Dual 11" spal fans work pretty well also and pull less amps.

I installed the new water pump and just left off the fan blade. The old pump sounds like it has gravel in the bearing. Probably why it seized up. There sure is a lot more room without the old mechanical fan. The electric fan was on the car when I got it. Not sure what brand it is. I changed the PO direct wiring and added separate fused line and a temperature relay that comes on at 195 degrees. I think the electric fan was doing most of the air circulation even with the mechanical fan in place. Temp stays 180-195. I'm hoping to do some top down cruising the next couple days if the weather cooperates- tired of doing mechanical work on the car. RA
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 11:01 PM
  #75  
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Wow....it never ends sometimes, does it? Enjoyed your tale. Glad you go things sorted out.

Here is a thread from sometime back on my '73 with a "detuned" LS6 crate motor we installed in '77. '78?

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-on-dyno.html

Anyway, you mentioned the Pertronix ignition. This car is running the stock distributor with either the II or III. I can't remember, and it's night time and I'm sitting on my couch doing this and I really don't feel like getting up and double checking. Sorry. I'm not using the Pertronix coil, but not because I don't want to, I just found myself in need of one and grabbed an Accel coil...I think it might have been an 8145, but again, can't quite remember, and it's cold out in the garage. I'm old, and lazy. Sorry.

When the motor was installed, a high rise hood with an air box/ rear entry design was installed at the same time. During one set of runs (all runs I've done are without the screen set up), which are normally with the hood opened, I did one with the hood closed (just one....wasn't intending to do a definitive test) and it cost 3 hp. I didn't think that was so bad. I'm using a K&N 3" filter, which is stuck in the air box.

Good luck on your car.

Last edited by FlyLS6; Mar 8, 2017 at 11:03 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ronarndt

68 corvette 454 after installing new valve springs to cure valve float


Took the car to the dyno today. Printout is attached. The car pulled strong right up to 6000 rpm for three runs. 338 rwhp and 359 ft lbs torque was a little less than I hoped for, but at least the motor is running properly now. I should have quit while I was ahead, however. The technician running the dyno suggested doing a fourth run -for free- so I said OK. At about 6000 rpm the water pump seized, the fan belt flew off and I got to have the car brought home on a roll-back. You just can't win. So I have my new Autozone water pump and new fan belt on my work bench ready for tomorrow's next adventure in Corvette restoration. Down but not out. RA
It's not a happy engine. The HP should not look like a 2 hump camel. That dips tells me it has something that is not correct. You can see it in the decending torque line also. It's either air/fuel, spark, or mechanical.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:30 PM
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Am I the only person that thinks this should be making much closer to 400 rwhp?

Jebby
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To 454 back together

Old Mar 9, 2017 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Am I the only person that thinks this should be making much closer to 400 rwhp?

Jebby
Not with less then 8-1 compression I don't think... Plus he had a mechanical fixed blade fan which was costing him 10-15 rwhp.

I think its an honest 350-360 rwhp combo with an E Fan..
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
Not with less then 8-1 compression I don't think... Plus he had a mechanical fixed blade fan which was costing him 10-15 rwhp.

I think its an honest 350-360 rwhp combo with an E Fan..
Agreed....not bad for 8 to 1 and big rec ports.....

Jebby
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 04:06 PM
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The most important tool on my bench also

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