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What is the problem and why?

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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 09:17 PM
  #1  
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Default What is the problem and why?

So I took out project red for a ride, I had to show the guys at work how things are coming along with it.


Here is what happened when going for the ride.
The car would cut out going down the road(the car was warm), like it wasn't getting fuel. It would stumble then come back and a few times just shut off. I pulled over to get out of traffic and it would start right back up with no issues. The car wasn't running hot, put my hand right on the radiator. The car would sit there and run in park with no issues. I get back on the road and about 3 miles later it would start again. I didn't pull over this time, I just put it in neutral and rev it a few times and it would idle fine. I didn't pull over and kept it going. I pull in to the garage and shut it off and started it back up right away, no issues.


What do you think it is and why???????


I did check all the plug wires/ coil also

Last edited by buelldude; Jan 25, 2017 at 09:19 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 09:34 PM
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It sounds like a fuel issue,check gas filter,or maybe a blocked pickup in the tank.I restored a 53 GMC pickup a few years ago and it ran fine in the garage while setting the timing and breaking in the new cam but about 5 miles from home it started doing the same thing you're car is doing,turned out to be a small piece of rust that I did not get when I cleaned the tank.I ended up installing a new tank.
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 09:35 PM
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Fuel filter or the sock on the fuel pick up in the tank, classic symptoms.
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 10:01 PM
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Fuel pump on the way out?.....
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 10:19 PM
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My vote is a bad fuel filter. My truck was doing the same thing. Pretty cheap fix too.
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by '75
Fuel filter or the sock on the fuel pick up in the tank, classic symptoms.
Yep. Then the sock pieces get sucked into the fuel pump and wedges the check valves open.
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 11:07 PM
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I work in a trucking garage and this happens more often than not.
I find out that The owner has added a fuel additive into the tank,
And that little round seal on the bottle falls into the tank.
It will idle and run at low RPM's all day but when your in town or on the freeway the engine sputters and stops running, they pull over and it starts right back up, here is whats going on.
That little seal, paper or tin gets sucked up to the pickup tube and blocks the fuel line then starves the engine for fuel, you pull over and that little seal has already come off the line because the suction line lost its vacuum, then it starts right up till it sucks down again.
If you do not have a fuel screen in your tank, This can happen. check your tank. (I do not have one because I have a electric pump and a inline filter at the tank for quick changes).
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 07:49 AM
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this happened to me last year, it was fine when it idled, but when I drove it it would cut out. traced it back to the wire in the dizzy to the points was lose. good luck
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 08:18 AM
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check the "S" hose from the fuel pump to metal hose from tank, if replaced with regular hose, it will kink, ask me how I know.
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by lvmyvt76
check the "S" hose from the fuel pump to metal hose from tank, if replaced with regular hose, it will kink, ask me how I know.
Also quite common.
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 09:28 AM
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May I jump in please?
Should I have an "S" hose on my '68 BB 427/390 car?
I replaced thee old fuel line with new 3/4" fuel line off the spool so to speak. Did not know there was a specially bent hose.
Thank you.
Marshal
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 01:06 PM
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I replaced $400 in parts on my 66' that had the exact same issue to find out that the original 47 year old 6" hose from the sender to the hard fuel line had deteriorated internally.......causing a high demand fuel shutoff situation. Cost me $.50.

Jebby
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 02:36 PM
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My father-n-law had a Toyota pick up that did the same thing and would not go over 40MPH. I was visiting one weekend and told me about it and he had two different shops look at it and could not figure it out. My father-n- law knew I had some mechanical skills (US NAVY) and ask if I wanted to buy the truck and I told him I'd give him a $1.00 and he said sold! It took me 6 1/2hrs to drive back to VA Beach (norm 4hrs), Va. from Fayetteville, NC and that weekend I began to troubleshoot the issue using the basic checks, Fuel, air, spark. I followed the fuel line and found one in the engine bay that was new. Continued back towards the tank, found a 2nd covered under what appeared to be buried under, Undercoating. Took off the filter with black mucky tar looking stuff oozing out. Replaced that filter and cranked her up. She ran perfect! $1.00 for the truck and $3.50 for a filter. I drove that truck for 8 years before selling it for $2,000.00.
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Old Jan 29, 2017 | 09:51 AM
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I have to agree with everyone of you and I have looked into what little records came with the car. I didn't see to much maintenance done over the years so I am going for the little things one at a time to see what fixes the problem. I will move on to the next thing in line, I'm starting with fuel filter and going back---- of the car.
I have to get it going for the spring, the T-tops haven't been used yet!!!.
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Old Jan 29, 2017 | 07:20 PM
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Assuming that the fuel in the fuel tank is GOOD fuel. Bad gas can cause this when the engine is being pout under a load.

Hopefully it is a fuel system issue that can be taken care of with some hoses and parts. It would not be a bad idea to do all the rubber hoses so you start off fresh and know when they were installed.

If the problem exists..I would then have to look at the advance area of the distributor...unless you have already done all that. I have not gone in and read all of your threads.

DUB
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 05:58 PM
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well, I took it out for a test drive?????? Seems to have been the filter, I drove it for a few miles and had no issues. Thanks for all the inputs.
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