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Keep in mind a lot of us aren't doing this in the yard. Even if my puller was long enough to reach from the front, with the length of a C3 I would be pulling the engine out into the driveway. It would also mean the garage door would have to be open, that would not give me enough over head room. When I do this and I have several times I do it by myself. The nice smooth garage floor makes it much easier than trying to drag it across the drive way. I admit I do one thing while pulling the motor that is a little Bubba. I took the handle off of my engine leveler/puller and I use an electric impact wrench to work the engine into the angles that I need. I don't recommend this but I no longer have full use of my right arm and this hurts a lot less. If you try this use a lot of grease on the pullers threads.
[QUOTE=havesometo;1593972284]You are the one insisting that has to go from the side as a matter fact this is your exact words.
The op stated his crane won't reach from the front. That's the case with many engine cranes.I've seen people try to extend the boom for a longer reach but in each case I've seen the crane became unstable. That's why others not just myself said go in from the side.
I'm not sure what your getting at but I was responding to the original posters question
My hoist only has a 34 inch reach,and from the side the center line of the engine is around 36 so later this week I'm borrowing one from a buddy thats 51 from the hook to the upright.The reason I asked is I was talking to a guy at a rental place and he said that he owned a C3 and the trans did not clear the fire wall so he had to separate the two.I've always pulled the trans and the engine together from the front. I should have built an I beam into my new garage like my cousin did than you can just use a chain fall.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Here is a 383 with a Tremec going in as an assembly. No problem. I've done automatics the same way - they're about the same size as the Tremec. I just use a chainfall. I've used standard engine hoists as well: They are typically too short to reach, so I simply buy a piece of rectangular tubing and slip it over the upper lift arm to extend it about a foot and clamp it in place. This allows the engine to be installed with the tranny from the front. You just have to be careful about extending it too far to prevent the hoist from wanting to tip forward (or have someone stand on the back of the hoist...). The entire sequence shown here took about 5 minutes:
Lars,
That's one way with the radiator out, core support out and all accessories on.
My approach is different. I take everything off the engine that gets in the way, water pump, alternator, pulleys etc. I pull the hood and radiator but leave the core support.
The last time I did it I started on a Friday after work and had the engine out and back in and running by Sunday morning. The actual pull, like you said, only takes about 5 to 10 minutes, in or out.
It does help that I have no power steering, smog pump or power steering. It also helps to have a second pair of eyes and hands.
Sure, if your crane is long enough., for that matter you don't need an engine crane at all just something you can hook a winch come along or block and tackle to and have at it.
My sister used an OAK TREE and a 2 ton chain come-along to swap the big block motor in her Chevelle. (back when she was in her 20's).
Well good news the engine and trans are out it only took about 15 min. to pull it from the side just had to angle it toward the corner front as it went up. Trans cleared no problem didn't hit the body at all.Now gotta start the cleanup and paint the engine compartment.Took the valve covers off and there is no sludge and it looks clean ,i'll take the oil pan off tomorrow and see how the bottom end looks.