First I've got to clear the tears from the eyes. Got my '78 L82 block back from the rebuilder. Had the lower end remanufactured. Matching number block so I decided to go that route rather than a crate.

Motor is on a three legged engine stand. While I was moving it last night - yep - it fell over The point of impact is the lower end of the fuel pump mounting. I have two cracks in this area. Fortunately this area only sees oil pressure. The fuel pump will easily mount back onto this face, meaning the mounting is not distorted.

Picture below (still unable to post a decent size picture) shows the two cracks. The one at the bottom is through the whole thickness. The other crack is barely visible located on the right side between the two mounting bolt holes, more towards the top.

The rebuilder looked at my pictures and suggests I cut a v groove in the crack and fill it with JB weld as all it really needs to do is withstand oil pressure. He is not suggesting that is the best repair but maybe all that is needed for this part.

I am open to any other ideas out there that have worked for anyone else.

While you are reading this, I am modifying that POS engine stand with some type of outriggers so this doesn't happen again.

 

i have an old time welder shop here in northern Kentucky could easily repair this
Wes

 

I would drill out the end of the cracks with a 1/16, 3/32 drill to stop any spread and repair it with JB Weld.

I repaired my 1970 wagon years back and kept it 6 years with no issue.

The most important is that the area to be JB'ed is clean.

A real weld is always best, but in a pinch JB works.. the regular cure - not fast cure.

 

I would weld it with some Nirod. Now is the time to do it right. It could also be brazed successfully.

 

Just my $.02. Make the "V" through the entire crack length (Both sides if it's gone through) and drill both ends of the crack as Blue has mentioned (The drilling will stop the crack from growing.)
JB Weld or speak to a machine shop for something that mat be a better compound than JB ?

Also, I would be thinking of any flex in the block around there from the fuel pump while running. May be a non issue but that popped in my mind. Possibly an electric and plate the original area ?

 

Get rid of that tricycle engine stand or just use it for lawnmower engines from now on.

I agree with your builder. Make sure you clean it very well to ensure a solid bond.

 

Find some Belzona epoxy if you go that route. Its millitary grade JB Weld and works better. Or take it to your builder and have him do it correctly. Easier to do it now, than later.

 

Both of those cracks are a perfect candidate to use a Lock-N-Stitch repair.

http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html

http://www.locknstitch.com/precision...stitching.html

It's a little time consuming but it is the best way to fix your blocks fuel pump boss.

Will

 

Dear Bubba, please weld it. now while block is bare.
easy weld job for some one with experience.

 

That area sees zero stress.....the top two bolts get all of it.....

V it, drill it as stated and use JB or the Belzona mentioned......it will be fine.....
The trick it getting it clean enough.....

Jebby

 

Horror story. I bought a numbers/date correct block for my 63 after a lot of looking. I do understand there's a level of risk in this. My installer took it to a local engine shop who was supposed to the best. Shop told him the block isn't worth the rebuild cost and a rebuilt 350 would make a ton more sense. He said the customer (me) wanted this block because of the numbers. They said OK, whatever.

Turns out the block had a crack in it. They supposedly couldn't weld it because of the location. They repaired it some other way (might have been masking tape) and said when I picked it up "it would be fine." This was the first I heard if a crack, and I believe it was the first my buddy heard as well.

You know the rest. Install engine, sounds great, blows fluid all over the shop in the first hour. Shop says "hey you wanted this block." I say, I'd like to have known this block had a crack in it before I spend thousands on it, that's why I take it to a professional. They generously offer to glue it together again for a few hundred more at no guarantee. Spectacular complete waste of piles of dollars. I dog this shop to anyone who will listen.

For the record, I'm not a mechanic and I don't know jack about building motors, but I never, ever would have agreed to have a cracked block "repaired" and rebuilt.

 

It is a crap shoot repairing a block.......but in this instance I believe the location is not critical or stressed.
Some time and attention to detail will pay off here.......is it 100%, NO.
Would I try it on this block? Yes.
If it was, say, the oil pan rail or the bellhousing boss it would be a big fat NO.

BTW....there is no oil pressure here.......well not like you think......it will just spray out the end of the fuel pump drive shaft.....and drain.....

Jebby

 

Seems like a spot you could actually get welded together.. easily.. I would weld it back up while you have the chance to do it right.

Lets say the bonding agents work... not what if it doesn't or it just works for a little while, not only will you have to tear it down again, but the crack might spread into somewhere you can't weld it easily, and then you just lost your numbers matching block.

Just my 2 cents, if you think its bad now imagine how much worse it will be if the quick fix doesn't work.

 

Funny thing about cast iron and cracks. With thermo-cycling the crack is sure to spread. And any epoxy you use is not going to have the same coefficient of expansion as the cast iron.

Welding cast iron is no easy task. You need to fine a properly skilled welder. Spend a few bucks getting it repaired properly and protect the investment you have in the motor.

 

Being in the aircraft repair business for a while, my shop, (sheet metal) was always pretty close to the welding shop. A guy in the welding shop with 10 or 15 years experience could weld that and except for physical part, you'd never know it.
The guys are right, it's hard to do, but these aircraft welders are certified, they have to be, and it's not an easy thing to get certified how they have to do it.


I wish you all the luck with this endeavor

 

Like Jebbysan says, there is no oil pressure there. That cavity is at the same pressure as the crankcase.

 

Thing is that crack may spread
If you are super confident in someone and it seems right well go for it
At a apoint move on to a 1 pc rear main roller block
Forget the # match crap. Its old...someone who knows cars would understand. Who would want a reparied cracked block I WOULDNT

# match only "real" to a point
Put your mone in another block. Like a Dart..witha bigger stroke
NOBODY will complain about a nice big power motor if they do they are FULL of it and trying to rip you off..

Id take a nice 421 any day of the week over a sucky l82. Think about it


Ive had more calls on my current A body. NONE of its is # matching stock anyhing else. Its done right .

Anyone wanting #s....go le tthem find one there are plenty that will pay MORE fora nicely done not OVERdone non #s car.
maybe not 20 yrs ago. EVery car guy knows thes are old and anything can happen

Would you pay big money for a hold your breath original or a fresh scare the crap out of you but reliable motor?

Nuff said. Anyhow theres an azz for every seat so dont worry about that collector " can only be done 1 way crap"> thats for guys that have only driven stock cars. Time moves on.

Bulld the crap out of it. Believe me someone will appreciate the upgrades. Not ONE guy in th elast yr Ive had mine advertised has asked about # mtaching original block anything. They love all the new stuff. 1974 has come and gone. Mines worth 3x what a stock # match will get.

 

Take that block and put it away and get another. If you try to sell the car you will have to tell them the block was cracked and repaired. Unless you forget to if you sell the car.

 

Gahh! don't weld it unless it's a pro. I have blocks welded infrequently, but the key is heat. Unless you have a welder that has an oven, run away. If you try to weld cast iron cold, it'll look fine for short while, then bust wide open once it heats up to operating temp.

JB weld is great stuff for your repair. minimal pressure, just "V" it out and clean it really well, it'll be fine.

Hams

 

That crack can and should be brazed. Someone in the welding business should be able to bring equipment to you and do the job there. JB Weld or other epoxies MIGHT seal it up; then again, it might not. Brazing it will seal the joint AND make that area stronger than it was.

Just do it.