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I discuss many of the challenges of installing a centrifugal supercharger on a C3. Although I installed a ProCharger, some if not many of the same challenges will be present. I originally installed it under the original 1978 hood, although the L-88 is depicted in many pictures.
KT
WOW. Great post. Going to have to print this out. I’m purchasing a CVF serpentine belt system. I plan to move the alternator to the passenger side to help free up room. The power steering pump is a smaller unit (pulley the same size) with a remote filler. I was thinking about going manual brakes as I have 6 piston Brembos front and rear with 15” rotors. But I love the hydro boost system. Have it on my humvee. Going to swap out the AC system with a vintage air system. Switching to electric headlights and deleting the cruise control. This should get rid of all the vacuum lines I think.
I’d like to upgrade the radiator and put dual fans.
I guess by getting the dual fans with their shroud and setup I would need the stock shroud. Giving a little more room. I do plan to run a intercooler. Haven’t figured that one out yet.
I have my own mill and lathe so making brackets is easy (lol).
What boost do you intend to run? If you have a stout engine, I wouldn't bother with the intercooler unless you plan on running 10 psi +. You'll find the complexity of the system on the C3s isn't worth the gain. However, if you intend to ever run > 10 psi, then it will be a must (or run some sort of water / meth injection to cool the inlet charge. On low boost applications, pulling some timing and running aftermarket aluminum cylinder heads will be all you really need.
What boost do you intend to run? If you have a stout engine, I wouldn't bother with the intercooler unless you plan on running 10 psi +. You'll find the complexity of the system on the C3s isn't worth the gain. However, if you intend to ever run > 10 psi, then it will be a must (or run some sort of water / meth injection to cool the inlet charge. On low boost applications, pulling some timing and running aftermarket aluminum cylinder heads will be all you really need.
id like to run in 14 psi for boost. Depending on what the motor makes at lower boost will determine if I go with intercoolers. Already got the aluminum heads. As much as this project is costing I could have just bought an LS and got a roots blower.
id like to run in 14 psi for boost. Depending on what the motor makes at lower boost will determine if I go with intercoolers. Already got the aluminum heads. As much as this project is costing I could have just bought an LS and got a roots blower.
10-4, so cooling the charge will be a must. Keep in mind, if you run 14 psi of boost you will be close to doubling the horsepower of the engine (theoretically - not actually). I'm not sure what your base engine puts out, but once you get into the 550 + HP range you start reaching limitations of other driveline components - depending on how you drive it. So, if your base engine is 400 HP, 14 psi of boost puts you into the 700 HP + range. Unless you have a lot of upgrades to your vette's driveline components you will find the next weak link pretty quick. It can probably survive spirited street driving, but if you push it a lot, you'll be in it for more $$$. Something to think about as you start putting time and money into engine horsepower.
personally making 550 na is easy and would have gone with out the super charger but you can easily make 550 under 10 pounds boost .
I personally chose to limit my boost to < 10 psi (7-8) in order to avoid some of the complexity of upgrading components. I did upgrade the transmission to the magnum T-56, and some yoke arms, but that's it. I would still feel better if my other components were beefier.
10-4, so cooling the charge will be a must. Keep in mind, if you run 14 psi of boost you will be close to doubling the horsepower of the engine (theoretically - not actually). I'm not sure what your base engine puts out, but once you get into the 550 + HP range you start reaching limitations of other driveline components - depending on how you drive it. So, if your base engine is 400 HP, 14 psi of boost puts you into the 700 HP + range. Unless you have a lot of upgrades to your vette's driveline components you will find the next weak link pretty quick. It can probably survive spirited street driving, but if you push it a lot, you'll be in it for more $$$. Something to think about as you start putting time and money into engine horsepower.
agree. Putting a 6L80e trans in. Will have to mod the tunnel to make it fit but it’s what I got laying around. I have big concerns about the rear. And I don’t want to have to swap to a Detroit speed one. I love the look of the 82 rearend. Was wondering is a Camaro or mustang (forgive me) independent rear would hold up? Seems with 700 hp from the high end ones.
I’m hoping for a show/go daily (weekends and to town a couple times a week) driver. The pulley I have I think only will produce 7 psi. Which is good to start. My real challenge is getting the huge V3R (marine) Vortech SC under the hood and between the fenders.
found out this morning that my headlights want come up or go down. So I’m switching to electric. I know there’s a vacuum leak down there and suspect one with the ac as most if not all the vacuum lines are very old.
It looks like you have a plan, and have considered the HP requirements. The nice thing about a centrifugal or roots style SC is that you can alter the boost with a pulley change.
I'm considering a centrifugal supercharger at the moment too, having blown up my engine rather thoroughly a few months ago... If I'm putting in the work to build something it needs to be an upgrade, I was planning an alloy BBC, but I already have almost all I need to put another SBC together, so the price difference is huge. As my 388 was making a bit over 600hp at the crank, I can't really make much more as an n/a SBC. I only run an alternator belt driven (electric power steering pump and no a/c), so I was thinking about making some brackets for a reverse rotation centrifugal on the passenger side? Should be able to keep the short water pump, run a single v belt and a cog belt for the blower, and not have to cut the cross member with a bit of luck. Has anyone tried this? Most mounts I've found seem to go with mounting on the drivers side where the alternator is from factory. I think a reverse mount could work ok also with the angled radiator giving additional clearance down low?
Fortunately I don't have to worry about a lot of the issues, as I already run all electric accessories/light motors etc, and I'm already using a fuel injection setup (also controlling ignition) that's boost capable. I'm thinking along the lines of basically building my engine the same again but with a dished piston to lower compression ratio (from 11.2:1!) and with a bit of boost it should make some decent grunt.
I'm considering a centrifugal supercharger at the moment too, having blown up my engine rather thoroughly a few months ago... If I'm putting in the work to build something it needs to be an upgrade, I was planning an alloy BBC, but I already have almost all I need to put another SBC together, so the price difference is huge. As my 388 was making a bit over 600hp at the crank, I can't really make much more as an n/a SBC. I only run an alternator belt driven (electric power steering pump and no a/c), so I was thinking about making some brackets for a reverse rotation centrifugal on the passenger side? Should be able to keep the short water pump, run a single v belt and a cog belt for the blower, and not have to cut the cross member with a bit of luck. Has anyone tried this? Most mounts I've found seem to go with mounting on the drivers side where the alternator is from factory. I think a reverse mount could work ok also with the angled radiator giving additional clearance down low?
Fortunately I don't have to worry about a lot of the issues, as I already run all electric accessories/light motors etc, and I'm already using a fuel injection setup (also controlling ignition) that's boost capable. I'm thinking along the lines of basically building my engine the same again but with a dished piston to lower compression ratio (from 11.2:1!) and with a bit of boost it should make some decent grunt.
Originally, I considered this approach. I abandoned the idea. For me, mounting the SC on the passenger side created more logistical problems than it solved. The ProCharger bracket worked with minor modifications, swapping the alternator to the passenger side wasn't hard due to many SBC using that configuration already, and converting to a long water pump wasn't difficult either. In the end, it was simply easier to keep the SC on the drivers side. Not that it didn't have its own challenges, but it just had less challenges than mounting it on the passenger side. Now if you have a good plan, and can see it though, go for it. Let us know how it goes, it is very rare to see them on the passenger side.