Hi everybody;

while trying to drill a broken bolt, i managed to drill a small hole in the steal brake line gong from the front to the back of my c3 1973'er. And the brake fluid started dripping out off course....

The steal brake line is (except the drilled hole) in good condition. I was wondering if i could repare only the part i broke with a double flare - union. Is it easy? Can it be done underneath the car? Is it easy to cut the brake line? What are other possible problems i may encounter?


cheers

 

you mean like the fitting, leaking down the road and no brakes.
Bubba uses couplers... are you willing to gamble with your brakes ?

 

Hi dl,
While NOT an easy or quick job, the long brake line on the driver's side frame rail can be replaced with the body in place.
Perhaps you should consider that as a possibility?
Regards,
Alan

 

A number of years ago, I did a complete brake line replacement, on the '79 C-3 that my wife used to own. I did it without lifting the body. Fuel line replacement, however, was another story.

I went with a "pre bent", stainless steel set. IIRC, they came from Stainless Steel Brake.......

 

thanks for the answers. just to be clear: i'm not driving the car with the drilled brake line, that would be foolish. Just wondering if i need to replace the whole line or just a part. And if i replace just a part, it would be doubled flared, not with compression fittings.

But like suggested, may be best option is to change the whole brake line.

 

Yes You can repair it by cutting the line double flaring both ends and using a union . This is done in repair shops all the time , when only half the line is rusted. It will work fine and is permanent. It's not NCRS or up to the standards of some of those around here , who tend to overthink things. Stan.

 

This method can be done.

I personally /professionally would put a new line in due to I am somewhat neurotic and prefer to have the least amount of connections where a leak can develop possible. Not only that I am held liable...and it is just not worth it...and that line is really not that bad to do.

One bit of advice....when I do them I take the brass junction block that is at the end by the left trailing arm area WITH the line when I pull it out....then I put the brake line block on the new line and get it tight before I install the new line. I have a custom made flare crowfoot that can get to that fitting..l.but if I can get away from having to use it...I do so. So...when you are installing the brake line junction block...try to get it positioned the same and the factory line had it.

DUB

 

If you do replace the line all that has to come off is the trans cross member ,support the trans with a jack than you can get the line in easy.

Pete

 

I've done this a few times. I'm pretty sure if this happened in a 'professional' shop, they wouldn't be replacing the entire line.

 

Man, you dont even need to flare the lines. Just buy a double compression fitting. I fixed a 87 Ford LTD at the master cylinder this way years ago as a college student and the fitting lasted longer than the car.

 

Yes you can repair this with a union bit I would'nt , and it's illigal in Canada to use them . But I have seen many cars repaoired this way .

 

Hi Pete,
I'm pretty sure the transmission cross-member on 4-speed cars is welded in place.
Regards,
Alan

 

It's easy to do and once double flared and tight it's as good as any other joint in the system.


NEVER EVER use compression fittings on brakes lines.


A double flared union is just fine and is not illegal in Canada. You are likely thinking of a compression fitting.

 

Compression fittings are OK for low pressure, but brake lines can see over 1000 psi. I think you got lucky with the Ltd.

 

Safety related items, like brakes, are something you don't "shortcut". In the case of the C-3, that's being discussed here, replacing the front to rear line isn't all that difficult.

Having said that, obtaining a piece of brake tubing that long, and then accurately bending it, could be a challenge. However, if it was my car, I'd seek out a one piece, pre bent line, and replace the entire thing, just to be sure.

 

As stated above, DON'T use a compression union, flared union OK.

 

Thanx to all. I'm convinced in replacing the whole brake line from the front to the rear insteads of using a double flare. I will order a pre bent brake line from Corvette America as i'm happy with their products (although it is not that easy to get their parts over here in Belgium).

If i understand the replacement correctly, i take out the back brass junction as well. Then i start from the back to the front. Are the clips difficult to remove? If any of you have some photographs, i would be 'over the moon'. I'll keep you up to date with the replacement (as soon as i got de replacement part).

As alwys, all suggestions more than welcome...

 

I wouldn't pay to ship a line from the US to Belgium just because putting a union in the line is perceived as being a poorer repair even though it really isn't.

If you have flaring tools then just go buy a piece at your local auto parts store and bend it to suit.

 

There is absolutely NOTHING functionally wrong about using double-flared tubing, fittings and a union to repair that line. All items are readily available and will effect the repair perfectly well. It would be a good idea to clamp the union tightly to the frame so vibration would not be an issue.

 

When I do these I do not worry about the crossmember...IF the car is an automatic....The crossmember can be slightly lowered to get the line in and out.

The bolts may be a bit of fun to get out and I would suggest you use a 6 point socket instead of a 12 point socket. The worst bolt is the one on the frame at the very back. And sometimes you may need to use a box ended wrench and heat and bend it to get it to what you need to get the bolt out. DO NOT be surprised if when you try to get something on the head of the bolt that it fight s you due to the clip can sometimes move and make it so a socket can not be put on easily. I will often times use a bent flat blade screwdriver I have and get between the head of the bolt and the clip and splay it apart so my socket or wrench will fit. And I have wrenches where I have ground then down so they are narrow around the socket portion of the box end wrench.

With that said...I would also have to somewhat agree that IF in your area you can get some tubing and someone has the correct double flare tool. I would use tubing benders and make my own line.

Actually...You may have access to the Nickel Copper brake line tubing where you are. I ahve been using it in some build sand that stuff is very good and you really do not even need a bender for it if you are not worried about the bend having a precise look to it.

http://agscompany.com/product-catego...-lines/nicopp/

More info to check out:

http://www.brakeconnect.com/4-reason...kel-brake-line

For the record ..I own my shop and I would replace the line in its entirety...without a second thought. I KNOW a flared union would work...but that is not how I choose to do things.

AND not that it matters.....but there are special compression fittings that are used in hydraulic lines that can handle MUCH MORE pressure than a cars brake system. Even though they work...because I have used them in some serious hydraulic line repair situations...I still would not use them in this scenario.

DUB