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I would plastic wrap that the wife keeps in the cabinet to wrap food dishes. Easy to work with. I've even used that new stuff called press and seal and it works even better. I used it to spot paint areas in the engine bay to protect the parts from over spray.
WD 40 works great if your wires or dizzy get wet Also. engines usually start right up after you wash them but the mistake is turning it right off Let it run for about 10 min and you'll be fine
WD 40 works great if your wires or dizzy get wet Also. engines usually start right up after you wash them but the mistake is turning it right off Let it run for about 10 min and you'll be fine
I was told and always wash the engine while it is running. This way, if you wet something that should not be wet, you know it right away. It may just start to run a little rough, so you can stop what you are wetting.
I always went to one of those high-pressure, do-it-yourself car washes and soaped down and then rinsed and quickly restarted my motor. If your distributor is out in the open you might want to bag it. Never had a problem. On a hot engine the water steamed off real quick.
I was told and always wash the engine while it is running. This way, if you wet something that should not be wet, you know it right away. It may just start to run a little rough, so you can stop what you are wetting.
That "might" crack an exhaust manifold. "Just sayin...."
To start, I would take the car to a quarter car wash that has the low pressure green tire/wheel degreaser setting. Bag the dizzy and carb (alt, too, if you want), and use that degreaser setting to cover the engine and compartment with that stuff. Let it set for about 5-10 minutes, then hose it off with Low Pressure Rinse. If that did pretty well but didn't get it all, do it again. If it didn't make a dent in the gunk on your engine, go buy some cans of GUNK. Then repeat the same process using the GUNK spray stuff.
This will get most of the grime off the engine and compartment walls. For the undercarriage, you will need to use the High Pressure spray to knock off the hard grease/grime/rocks/whatever. If really bad and you want to do a really nice redo of the undercarriage, you probably need to go to someone who can steam clean the underside first.
That "might" crack an exhaust manifold. "Just sayin...."
l'm thinking this is pretty much an old wives tale as I've washed literally hundreds of hot engines with never an issue. Also as an old off road racer I've drenched hundreds of hot engines while racing and never had an issue. This doesn't even begin to count the number of hot engines I've witnessed soaked by every method imaginable with no issues other than engine dying from soaked electronics with the problem solved after the electronics dryer out.
So my question has anyone ever personally experienced a cracked block, manifold, etc from washing a hot engine?
As an engineer I just don't think a properly running engine gets hot enough (250 degrees?) To cause issues with a steel part cracking.
l'm thinking this is pretty much an old wives tale as I've washed literally hundreds of hot engines with never an issue. Also as an old off road racer I've drenched hundreds of hot engines while racing and never had an issue. This doesn't even begin to count the number of hot engines I've witnessed soaked by every method imaginable with no issues other than engine dying from soaked electronics with the problem solved after the electronics dryer out.
So my question has anyone ever personally experienced a cracked block, manifold, etc from washing a hot engine?
As an engineer I just don't think a properly running engine gets hot enough (250 degrees?) To cause issues with a steel part cracking.
I'm pretty sure exhaust manifolds get hotter than 250F, but no, I never harmed any motor, hot or cold from washing it.
I usually only wash them when they are cool, but with all of the rain/snow/puddles people ride through (I know, not with the plastic cars though) you never hear of manifolds cracking when they get wet.
Hi gto,
The oil/dirt on the engine and in the compartment has been protecting some of the parts from rust.
After cleaning the engine/compartment, the next day you may see that some rust has appeared that you didn't expect.
Regards,
Alan
Personally, I wouldn't even think of using a pressure washer (my own or at any form of car wash) anywhere on my 'Vette! Not only were leaks into the cabin and/or birdcage and/or body mount locations nearly standard equipment but unlike newer cars extremely few of the electrical connectors outside the cabin are weatherproof.
I think that it is relatively important to know WHERE to aim the pressure washer. If you don't know where to aim it, you shouldn't do it.
If you want to clean it...and it's grimy and greasy...you will need a pressure washer--or you will need a few weeks of 'elbow grease'.
Originally Posted by Iceaxe
l'm thinking this is pretty much an old wives tale as I've washed literally hundreds of hot engines with never an issue. Also as an old off road racer I've drenched hundreds of hot engines while racing and never had an issue. This doesn't even begin to count the number of hot engines I've witnessed soaked by every method imaginable with no issues other than engine dying from soaked electronics with the problem solved after the electronics dryer out.
So my question has anyone ever personally experienced a cracked block, manifold, etc from washing a hot engine?
As an engineer I just don't think a properly running engine gets hot enough (250 degrees?) To cause issues with a steel part cracking.
Not cracked but DID warp an exhaust manifold enough that it leaked at the head mating surface on a 79 L82 back in the late 80s. Since then I do not spray cold water in great quantity on a hot exhaust manifold.