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Wire short somewhere ????

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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 07:46 AM
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Default Wire short somewhere ????

Let me try to explain . When i purchased my 68 the owner said he always kept the battery on a battery tender and took off the neg battery cable. Also when i bought the car the horn was not working as the owner said he never had a chance to get around to it . As the days went on my friend that i met though this site that lives close by who knows Vetts very well but not to much about wiring ( meaning not an expert) but knows basic stuff . Also the first few days i did not disconnect the battery and about half the time when i went to start the car it started then about 2 hrs or so later it was dead. I had to put it on a battery charger / starter to start it . After about 2 hours it would start. As my friend was checking the car over he / we heard a loud buzzing noise coming from the voltage regulator when i turned the key. We replaced the voltage regulator with a new one and it still made a buzzing sound pretty loud like the one that was in there. Also my 68 has an electronic ignition. As he was checking out the wiring in the engine compartment he said it looked like a bubba job. Wires all over the place and nothing in wire harnesses. I asked the previous owner about the battery and he said it was new. I also asked him about the alternator and he said it was all good. Also it is the original numbers number alt too. My friend checked the negative battery post with a power tester ( the one with the point like an ice pick ) forgot the name of it . And it had power , the negative battery post.So he said there is definitely a short somewhere. Also my blinkers work as they should but when i put my headlights on my right turn signal goes on too and stays lit. Also now that he checked some of the engine wires my wipers and wiper door does not work and they were working before he checked some wiring . He said he didnt touch anything with the wipers and the only thing he replaced was the voltage reg. He also took out every fuse in the fuse box and checked the fuse box with his tester and said it was all ok. He said he really is all out of ideas about where the short could be coming from. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions as where to start with this? I have the battery disconnected now all the time . I know its hard to diagnose from what i am saying but any ideas would be very helpful .

Last edited by MikesRed68; Apr 23, 2017 at 07:53 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 07:56 AM
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Hi MR68,
Is there ANY chance that the loud buzzing you heard was the key warning system?
When the driver's door is open and the key is inserted in the ignition, a loud buzzer sounds.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi MR68,
Is there ANY chance that the loud buzzing you heard was the key warning system?
When the driver's door is open and the key is inserted in the ignition, a loud buzzer sounds.
Regards,
Alan
Hi Alan thats what originally i thought it was. But the loud buzzing sound is coming from the voltage reg. and only when the key is turned.Could it still be the key warning system? My friend said no .

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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by MikesRed68
Hi Alan thats what originally i thought it was. But the loud buzzing sound is coming from the voltage reg. and only when the key is turned.Could it still be the key warning system? My friend said no .
Im wondering if i need whole new wiring harnesses , dash ,engine, fwd lamp and rear body. Or just hoping to find the short for now that is draining my battery. Also i did notice that my door light switch stays lit. And my drivers side door ajar switch is does not have a back washer and it comes out of the door jam hole and does not go in but when i hold the button in the door light switch still stays lit. I did order a new door ajar switch and back washer. Im wondering if that could be draining my battery.

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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 08:22 AM
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Start with the basics. Have the alternator tested, and the battery load tested.
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 08:40 AM
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I had a similar issue with my '72 when purchased. Found that someone had replaced the starter and incorrectly wired a ground wire that connects to the windshield wiper (from the starter) to the hot side. This produced a constant drain on the system, and, I found it by attempting to trouble-shoot the wiper motor. Traced the issue to the "defective" wiper and when I removed the ground wire, it brushed against the engine and sparked.....
Good luck...
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Start with the basics. Have the alternator tested, and the battery load tested.
Thanks that is what my friend suggested about the alternator but i asked the previous owner and he said that alt was good.
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by JimT
I had a similar issue with my '72 when purchased. Found that someone had replaced the starter and incorrectly wired a ground wire that connects to the windshield wiper (from the starter) to the hot side. This produced a constant drain on the system, and, I found it by attempting to trouble-shoot the wiper motor. Traced the issue to the "defective" wiper and when I removed the ground wire, it brushed against the engine and sparked.....
Good luck...
Thanks Jim
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 10:00 AM
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Hi MR68
Replacing harnesses…

Usually the engine harness has suffered the most 'wear' because of where it's located. (Heat, oil, gas.)

The dash harness is often in good condition because of where it's located…. but is often the one bubba has had the most 'private time' with because of what he's done to the interior.

The forward lighting harness is a little complicated but generally not too bad.

The rear lighting harness is often in the best condition.

From what I read here it really seems that the more time bubba has spent enjoying himself and the more 'modifications' have been incorporated into the electrical system the more benefit there is from new harnesses. The down side is they are relatively expensive!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 01:46 PM
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Hi I'm new year and I need help...I had my 1999 corvette for almost a year now and I am most of the time I parked my car in the garage use it only for summer.2 months ago I start using my car and for some reason I was driving in the car stopped running to make the story short I made it home and then went to your Corvette forum and read and read so I'm thinking possible my locked ignition cylinder and the key pallet so I replaced them both.yesterday I drive my car and stop running again and I try to start it The dashboard start flicking gauges and showing low voltage, reduce pier and showing codes c1243

Last edited by Jhune1974; Apr 23, 2017 at 02:04 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by MikesRed68
Let me try to explain . When i purchased my 68 the owner said he always kept the battery on a battery tender and took off the neg battery cable. Also when i bought the car the horn was not working as the owner said he never had a chance to get around to it . As the days went on my friend that i met though this site that lives close by who knows Vetts very well but not to much about wiring ( meaning not an expert) but knows basic stuff . Also the first few days i did not disconnect the battery and about half the time when i went to start the car it started then about 2 hrs or so later it was dead. I had to put it on a battery charger / starter to start it . After about 2 hours it would start. As my friend was checking the car over he / we heard a loud buzzing noise coming from the voltage regulator when i turned the key. We replaced the voltage regulator with a new one and it still made a buzzing sound pretty loud like the one that was in there. Also my 68 has an electronic ignition. As he was checking out the wiring in the engine compartment he said it looked like a bubba job. Wires all over the place and nothing in wire harnesses. I asked the previous owner about the battery and he said it was new. I also asked him about the alternator and he said it was all good. Also it is the original numbers number alt too. My friend checked the negative battery post with a power tester ( the one with the point like an ice pick ) forgot the name of it . And it had power , the negative battery post.So he said there is definitely a short somewhere. Also my blinkers work as they should but when i put my headlights on my right turn signal goes on too and stays lit. Also now that he checked some of the engine wires my wipers and wiper door does not work and they were working before he checked some wiring . He said he didnt touch anything with the wipers and the only thing he replaced was the voltage reg. He also took out every fuse in the fuse box and checked the fuse box with his tester and said it was all ok. He said he really is all out of ideas about where the short could be coming from. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions as where to start with this? I have the battery disconnected now all the time . I know its hard to diagnose from what i am saying but any ideas would be very helpful .
Look at the wiper electrical override switch(under the steering column)...which is unique to the 68 and could drain the battery down by the warning lamp staying on thanks to that switch. It is not fused- but protected by a fusible link- so pulling all the fuses -you will still have a draw.

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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi MR68
Replacing harnesses…

Usually the engine harness has suffered the most 'wear' because of where it's located. (Heat, oil, gas.)

The dash harness is often in good condition because of where it's located…. but is often the one bubba has had the most 'private time' with because of what he's done to the interior.

The forward lighting harness is a little complicated but generally not too bad.

The rear lighting harness is often in the best condition.

From what I read here it really seems that the more time bubba has spent enjoying himself and the more 'modifications' have been incorporated into the electrical system the more benefit there is from new harnesses. The down side is they are relatively expensive!
Regards,
Alan
Thanks Alan... The car is all stock except for the electronic ignition and the flowmaster exhaust.
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard454
Look at the wiper electrical override switch(under the steering column)...which is unique to the 68 and could drain the battery down by the warning lamp staying on thanks to that switch. It is not fused- but protected by a fusible link- so pulling all the fuses -you will still have a draw.

Thanks...I remembered that wiper override switch with my 69. That could be why the wipers aint going on. I will check that out too.

Last edited by MikesRed68; Apr 23, 2017 at 04:47 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 06:17 PM
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Are you positive it's the voltage regulator buzzing. Possibly the horn relay?
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by John 65
Are you positive it's the voltage regulator buzzing. Possibly the horn relay?
John my friend and i thought it was coming from the voltage regulator. Now that u mentioned the horn relay i will check again tomorrow. The horn relay is by the voltage regulator right?
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by MikesRed68
John my friend and i thought it was coming from the voltage regulator. Now that u mentioned the horn relay i will check again tomorrow. The horn relay is by the voltage regulator right?
Here's a pic from my 68, it's just to the left of the regulator with the 2 red wires.


Sorry, not the greatest pic.
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by John 65
Here's a pic from my 68, it's just to the left of the regulator with the 2 red wires.


Sorry, not the greatest pic.
John 65 Yep thats where i thought it was. Thank you.... Mike.... BTW. Could a horn relay make a loud buzzing sound?

Last edited by MikesRed68; Apr 23, 2017 at 09:15 PM.
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To Wire short somewhere ????

Old Apr 23, 2017 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MikesRed68
John 65 Yep thats where i thought it was. Thank you.... Mike.... BTW. Could a horn relay make a loud buzzing sound?
Yep-

It's not only a horn relay and terminal block- but has the ignition key buzzer built in as well.

The Horn relay could also draw down your battery.

If it feels warm than that could be your problem- as you didn't say whether or not the horn worked.



The Bubba fix- when he messes with the steering column-steering wheel-or horn button and the horn sticks on, Bubba just disconnects the horn. The relay stays "energized and draws power.

Richard
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Old Apr 24, 2017 | 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Richard454
Yep-

It's not only a horn relay and terminal block- but has the ignition key buzzer built in as well.

The Horn relay could also draw down your battery.

If it feels warm than that could be your problem- as you didn't say whether or not the horn worked.



The Bubba fix- when he messes with the steering column-steering wheel-or horn button and the horn sticks on, Bubba just disconnects the horn. The relay stays "energized and draws power.

Richard
Hi Richard i thought i mentioned the horn does not work. The previous owner said he never had a chance to look into why it was not working.
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Old Apr 24, 2017 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by MikesRed68
Hi Richard i thought i mentioned the horn does not work. The previous owner said he never had a chance to look into why it was not working.
Also when i put my headlights on my right turn signal lights up and stays on without blinking. Without the headlights on the turn signals work as they should.
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