my wiring [/QUOTE]

 

[/QUOTE] my wiring

 

my wiring[/QUOTE] my wiring

 

I don't say this often, but I would definitely buy a new complete harness for that car and be done with it. It's all trash.
You will be fighting that for years.

 

okay, I reread your posts, the dash signal is whats lighting up, I dont think the ground for the tach case is connected or its connected poorly. If that signal flasher works properly with the lights off then its a ground isssue. If it doesnt work then the wrong light pigtail is in there. everything in your dash basically has its own ground wire and all those pigtail together and ground on the frame by the drivers door.

Put your finger on the voltage regulator and the horn relay to see which one is buzzing. voltage regulator bad, horn relay good, if the key is in the ignition and turned off

the alternator has power on the ground Side? is that with the motor running or all the time. If its all the time you may want to replace the voltage regulator, they're cheap and you can just eliminate the headache of trying to troubleshoot it. if its with the motor running it could be the alternator and/ or the voltage regulator. You should pull the alternator and have it tested. Who ever repaired it could have shorted it. Its a free test at most parts stores.
the courtesy switch can be accessed through the wheel well right behind it. There's a little 3x5 size door there.

check your wires, i saw some with the insulation missing and you could have shorts everywhere by the looks of it. Those all need to be covered with tape or liquid tape. I would start saving for a lectri limited harness. You can buy them in sections so your not wiring the whole car https://www.lectriclimited.com/engine-harness-103691
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...rness&_sacat=0

 

Hi MR68,
I agree!
I think I'd at least buy an engine harness at this point.
While still a lot of $$ it's the least expensive of the 4 main harnesses and probably the most straight forward to install because the access to it is so good.
One thing to remember though is that the harness will be configured for all the original components, so things that have been changed over the years to parts that are different in some way than what were on the car when it left St.Louis MAY cause some connection problems.
What I see in your photos would make me quite nervous!
Regards,
Alan

 

Is your Dad a television repair man?

 

RR I put in a new voltage regulator the other day and and new horn relay today. Still doing the exact same thing , With the lights on the right turn signal stays lit inside, and off on the outside tail light. With the lights off they work as they should. Also i noticed last night that my tach light does not come on. My speedo light works. Also my horn does not work. I had the battery fully charged this morning and when i went to put the car away the battery was dead. Also a few days ago my friend came over with a test light and disconnected the neg batt and pulled one fuse at a time and tested it. All lit up.

 

Alan it makes me nervous too. The only thing not stock is the electronic ignition. And its really not a money issue buying the harness or harnesses. That is just something that i CAN NOT DO BY MY SELF. I wish i could ..Also see post i answered to Rescue Rogers.

 

 

Yep im seeing it already

 

the horn maybe missing parts insid the column, thats not to serious if its not shorting out. Your horns are up front when you open the hood where the hood tilts down, Alan posted pics of those. You can see if they are connected.

i would disconnect the alternator and see if your battery dies. It should not have positive power on the negative terminal.

you need to climb under the and see iff the tach has the ground wire connected to it. Its black and might have a slid on terminal. That or its an eye and just gets screwed on. Look at the speedo to see.
This may be the signal light problem.

 

the horn maybe missing parts insid the column, thats not to serious if its not shorting out. Your horns are up front when you open the hood where the hood tilts down, Alan posted pics of those. You can see if they are connected.

i would disconnect the alternator and see if your battery dies. It should have positive power on the negative terminal.

you need to climb under the and see iff the tach has the ground wire connected to it. Its black and might have a slid on terminal. That or its an eye and just gets screwed on. Look at the speedo to see.
This may be the signal light problem.

these are the door jamb stitch tabs
http://www.corvetteamerica.com/cf/part.cfm?partno=49806

 

Tach light- there's a ground wire (black female spade) for the Tach AND the Speedo-if the bulb is good and the Speedo light works- that's more than likely your problem...

Here's the location-




Unfortunately that won't tell you what you need to know.

You really need a VOM meter NOT a test light- Can get a decent one for under $50.

You need to check current draw- not whether or not you are seeing voltage.

Think of electricity as water- the voltage as the height of the water ( can just think of 12 feet high = 12 volts) and current or Amperage as how fast the water is flowing. If you battery is full of water and 12 feet high- with no leaks your there ...but you have a leak somewhere not a short-However-you need to determine how fast the water is moving by measuring the how many amps(or part of one) are being drained out-

Here's how-

You'll put the meter in a series between the negative battery terminal and the neg cable.

Here's a good video-







I will say- that replacing the harness (under the hood)- maybe finding a local member to help you out- There are a lot of helpful member here- most will work for food (and beer!!!)

Just want keep you from burning the car down. The big gauge red wire running around the brake master cylinder- unprotected- could EASILY get caught in the hood latch and looks like the orange might be first- that's a dead short and can easily start a fire...

This make me more nervouser!!!

 

RR Yes i do think the horn is missing parts. The previous owner also left me a horn package with a small spring that he said he never got around to install. Also that is a great idea about disconnecting the alt to see if the batt dies. But my batt neg terminal does not have a positive power on it .

 

R454 Thank you very much for your valuable info!!!! That was a great video i learned alot and will buy a mutimeter. Also seeing those wires that u pointed out now makes me nervous too.

 

Oh I thought I read that your friend found power there. I misread it.

 

the plate must be on the back

 

Hi RR..My friend just left . We were out side trying to pinpoint the short/ drain from battery. He totally disconnected / took out the old / original K66 electronic ignition wiring harness and module. Looks alot better /cleaner without it. Then he checked the neg battery term with it disconnected from the battery. Still had power on neg batt. Disconnected the ground from the alternator , same as above , still had power on neg batt. Checked the wiper over ride , wiper door , and head lamps over ride. They all work as they should. Also there is an orange wire hanging under dash that he does not know where it goes. Cant trace it. Also lighter does not work. And still the Right blinker inside still lights up when headlights on. But also works as it should when u click the right turn signal arm. When u shut off headlights the blinker goes out on the right side . But also work as they should. He is totally stumped and does not know what else to do or check. Also when he checks the neg battery term his power tester lights up bright and he says its a good power loss in system and thats why the battery is draining so fast. TOTALLY STUMPED . Also he did say that door ajar mounting bracket has to go in from the inside but when we took off the small access door by the left back wheel well, there is another body panel with a hole for the wires before it gets to the outside body panel where the bracket would fasten to. Does the whole back interior and panels have to all come out ? omg....

 

Hi M,
Member... redrdstr72 ...developed a method do the repair to the switch's mounting plate without taking apart the whole car.
You might want to search his posts for the information.
I'm thinking it may be from 5+ ago.
Regards,
Alan