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Ok, you said you disconected the alt and there was no draw, well that's the problem then bad alt, tape that wire up so it does not touch anything
Gerry i double checked with my friend and he did say that he disconnected the alt and there was no draw. So u are saying there SHOULD be a power draw when the alt is disconnected?
if there is no power draw when you disconnected the alt then that is the problem, if there was still a draw when you disconnect the alt then you have to keep looking for what is causing the draw
if there is no power draw when you disconnected the alt then that is the problem, if there was still a draw when you disconnect the alt then you have to keep looking for what is causing the draw
Gerry my friend disconnected the alt yesterday , he took off the plug and the wires and checked it with a multimeter. He attached the red to the alt and the other to the engine block. There was no draw. Did he check it right? Also just now i know a mechanic for years and his shop is about 1000 ft from my home, I asked him to please come by and check the alt for me . He finally agreed and came with his multimeter. He told me to just start the car and he checked the alt and said it was fine that it is charging and its range was 14 +OR - Then he checked battery and said that was in good range too. But he did not check the alt by disconnecting it like my friend or u said. My point is what kinda alt test is that when the engine is running ???? Of course it would charge right? Anyway im just totally confused. I dont know if i should disconnect the alt and bring the alt in to a shop to have it checked to rule out definatly the alt. Im not sure now if he (my friend ) checked it the right way. Gerry is there ANY WAY OR TIME u can spare to check this electric draw for me PLEASE? I will PAY U YOUR U WANT + price.gas ,tolls beer , woman, boose, I really had it .I AM AT WITS END. ANYTIME I WOULD BE AVAIL.....:w illy::will y::wi lly:
The mechanic checled to make sure it's charging, but still could be causeing the draw, disconnect the hot side of the alt and check for a draw, if now draw i would say it is the alt and i would get a new one, also check and see if your horns are hooked up
The mechanic checled to make sure it's charging, but still could be causeing the draw, disconnect the hot side of the alt and check for a draw, if now draw i would say it is the alt and i would get a new one, also check and see if your horns are hooked up
Gerry u said Alan posted a pic of the horns ? Ive looked 5 x and cant find that post #.
Richard ok...I see that. I did forget to mention that we took off the 3 pin connector wires pink/black-black-green, and it still clicks when we touch the negative battery cable to the post and we put those wires back and took off the wires from the other end and touched the neg battery cable to the post and also clicks. Is this supposed to do that? And if not what has to be done or looked at to correct this bad *** big current draw battery drain problem. Do u think i need a whole new wiring harness ? Do u want to see any pictures of anything??
NO- if it clicks - the relay is engaged- that means you have a internally shorted/bad horn relay. That will pull a couple amp and wipe out your battery.
I'd replace the horn relay AND make sure there is NO continuity to a ground with the 4/5 hot wires connected to the Horn relay terminal block.
If you take the green wire at the horn relay( as it runs from the horn relay right to the horn) and connect it to a +12 source- the horn will honk- if the horn and wiring are good.
What the horn relay does (besides being a key buzzer and a +12volt terminal block) is take the black wire that runs through the steering column from the horn button -it grounds when you press the horn- to a switch AKA relay that gives the horn(s) +12 volts to make them sound.
Richard i DID replace the horn relay about a month ago. In one of my first posts i was saying that the horn relay was BUZZING ..That is why i replaced it. I AM SO FKN CONFUZED !!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by MikesRed68; May 24, 2017 at 07:06 PM.
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If you disconnect the positive lead on your battery, then connect you meter to the battery and the positive lead with the key off, the meter in the amp position should read zero. If it reads anything higher than zero go to the engine compartment and start unplugging wires one at a time and look at the meter each time. when you disconnect the bad wire , the meter will go to zero and then I will come down for the booze, money and women!!!
Richard i DID replace the horn relay about a month ago. In one of my first posts i was saying that the horn relay was BUZZING ..That is why i replaced it. I AM SO FKN CONFUZED !!!!!!!!!!
Just because you replaced it- doesn't mean it will fix it... Plus- the buzzing noise might have just been normal operation of the key in the ignition and the door open...
The click is an obvious clue the relay is being energized. Power is going through the coil of wire inside the Horn Relay- creating a magnetic effect and the contacts close ( in some cases open). WHENEVER a coil is energized it is USING power- or in your case draining power as it is always staying on.
The burnt wire tells me there might still be something wrong with your wiring- causing the relay to stay on, got torched when your replaced it w/o checking any further OR the new relay could have been bad to start with ( ENTIRELY possible these days)- I don't know.
You have to methodically check each wire out at the horn relay- look for places it could have melted to another wire - or as others ( and I) have stated, replace the harness.
Richard
Last edited by Richard454; May 24, 2017 at 11:26 PM.
If your horns are disconnected, i would think they are always making noise so that means there is something stuck in the horn button in steering column and the relay is still being charged
If your horns are disconnected, i would think they are always making noise so that means there is something stuck in the horn button in steering column and the relay is still being charged
Took my alternator out last night and took it to an alternator place to get it checked. The alternator is good. At least that defin rules that out.
If you disconnect the positive lead on your battery, then connect you meter to the battery and the positive lead with the key off, the meter in the amp position should read zero. If it reads anything higher than zero go to the engine compartment and start unplugging wires one at a time and look at the meter each time. when you disconnect the bad wire , the meter will go to zero and then I will come down for the booze, money and women!!!
You really would come down for booze money and woman!?????
that orange wire could be to many things, your clock, courtesy lamps, clock, heater resistor, or heater controls. Are any of those things working?
Look for a PM
Roger PM sent....My clock works when the car is running and stops when it is off. courtesy lights work, cigg lighter is not connected. I dont think the heater controls or heater resistor are working .I did change my heater vent face plate and had to take the old one all apart and it was hooked up . Thats how i know the cigg lighter aint wired.
You should start saving for a new wiring harness. I'm sure we can figure this out but there maybe more problems hiding
Roger thats exactly what i do want to do in the future. I defin want to put in at least the engine harness and probably the dash harness also at the same time . All i want right now is to find and correct the draw. If we can not correct it now at least i will know where it it is coming from. And if we can fix it temporary so it does not draw the battery down until i can get the wiring harness installed that would be great !!! Its like now its a fukn obsession to at LEAST find this fukn draw. know what i mean?