Wipers, one last try:





History: 1970 BB AC, when I bought it, the blower motor would blow the fuse after a few minutes of use. Attempts to fix it caused me to realize that the wiring harness had been Bubba's a half a dozen times or more, so I replaced it.
Upon replacing the harness, the wipers no longer worked.
The motor, switch, and relay have been tested per the Willcox technical help, and all tested fine (not surprising, since they all worked before the change of the harness.
What I think the problem is: There are two wires coming out of the wiper motor itself. The black wire, and the black wire with a purple stripe. The black wire was cut and spliced when I got the car (making me think Bubba was down this same road years ago), and the splice came undone when the harness was changed. Now, the side that comes out of the motor always has voltage. From reading the Willcox tech help, this is correct. Let me know if I have this wrong. However, the other side tests straight to ground. So, re-connecting this wire is a dead short, and kills the battery without the wipers ever running. Any ideas?
History: 1970 BB AC, when I bought it, the blower motor would blow the fuse after a few minutes of use. Attempts to fix it caused me to realize that the wiring harness had been Bubba's a half a dozen times or more, so I replaced it.
Upon replacing the harness, the wipers no longer worked.
The motor, switch, and relay have been tested per the Willcox technical help, and all tested fine (not surprising, since they all worked before the change of the harness.
What I think the problem is: There are two wires coming out of the wiper motor itself. The black wire, and the black wire with a purple stripe. The black wire was cut and spliced when I got the car (making me think Bubba was down this same road years ago), and the splice came undone when the harness was changed. Now, the side that comes out of the motor always has voltage. From reading the Willcox tech help, this is correct. Let me know if I have this wrong. However, the other side tests straight to ground. So, re-connecting this wire is a dead short, and kills the battery without the wipers ever running. Any ideas?
Then you'd have the 123 connector with power in the middle and the ground wires and then there should be a black ground wire to the case that is on the same grounding circuit as the blower motor.
Willcox





Willcox
Limit switch.

Wiper motor limit switch connector.



Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Jun 15, 2017 at 05:27 PM.





But as I stated above, I know the motor has power, it just is shorted out. The black wire that is cut is the power wire to the wiper motor, and the one side has power at all times at the moment. I now understand that this is only because the wiper door is open. But the other side of the cut wire has only 1.4 ohms resistance to ground. Connecting them is a short. Any ideas why?
Power comes to the limit switch from the over-ride switch in the dash. This power then goes through the limit switch and where the opposite end of the red/white limit switch connector plugs in is where you plug in your wiper motor red wire (should be sticking out the bottom of the motor). This is what supplies power to the motor as well as the yellow wire on the 123 connector (number 2). The yellow wire splits off and powers the washer pump along with a light blue wire which is a ground. The other outer wires at the 123 are grounds as well... that just leaves the black ground to the blower motor.
Test the one wire and see if it pings to the blower motor ground. Report back.. I won't be on until sometime tomorrow.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Jun 15, 2017 at 05:45 PM.





Power comes to the limit switch from the over-ride switch in the dash. This power then goes through the limit switch and where the opposite end of the red/white limit switch connector plugs in is where you plug in your wiper motor red wire (should be sticking out the bottom of the motor). This is what supplies power to the motor as well as the yellow wire on the 123 connector (number 2). The yellow wire splits off and powers the washer pump along with a light blue wire which is a ground. The other outer wires at the 123 are grounds as well... that just leaves the black ground to the blower motor.
Test the one wire and see if it pings to the blower motor ground. Report back.. I won't be on until sometime tomorrow.
Willcox
That said, for example, I am looking here:
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...d-wiper-motor/
There are two wires coming out of the body of the wiper motor, one is black, the other is black with a purple stripe. In the photo, the black with a purple stripe wire appears to come out of the wiper motor, and attach to a tab that is connected to connection #4. This is how it appears in my car as well. The black wire appears to come out of the wiper motor, and connect to the #2 terminal in the 123 connector. This is also how it appears in my car. HOWEVER, in my car, the black wire that connects from the body of the wiper motor to the #2 connection of the 123 connector is cut, and the side toward the wiper motor always has voltage, where the side toward the 123 connector has no resistance to ground. This is what causes the short.
I can try to take pictures if that helps.
Thanks!
PK
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
There should be three wires that plug into the 123 connector, green, yellow and blue.
Then there should be a red wire running out of the bottom that plugs into the limit switch circuit and a black ground. If the internal wires on the motor have been cut... you'll need to either re-attach them or get another motor.
You can see the internal wire and where they go in the picture below.





Then there should be a red wire running out of the bottom that plugs into the limit switch circuit and a black ground. If the internal wires on the motor have been cut... you'll need to either re-attach them or get another motor.
You can see the internal wire and where they go in the picture below.

The two wires I am talking about are visible at the top of the picture in your post, coming out from under the blue tape. One of them is black, the other is black with a purple stripe. The black one of these is cut, and the side toward the wiper motor body tests with full battery voltage. The other side of the cut shows ground. Re-connecting these wires causes a short.
Let me know if pictures would help. I have some, and can take more if it helps.
The two wires I am talking about are visible at the top of the picture in your post, coming out from under the blue tape. One of them is black, the other is black with a purple stripe. The black one of these is cut, and the side toward the wiper motor body tests with full battery voltage. The other side of the cut shows ground. Re-connecting these wires causes a short.
Those wires are there, and working (as far as I know) as they should based on your troubleshooting guides.
Let me know if pictures would help. I have some, and can take more if it helps.





I can't believe any of the internal wires are cut or not functional since the wiper motor ran before the wiring harness was changed, and has even moved a few times with my experimentation (which is why the wiper door is open).





The exposed end lower in the picture always has battery voltage, and the end higher in the picture (clearly connected to a red crimp connector) tests full continuity to ground.
Let me know if there is any way I can show this more clearly.
Thanks,
PK
read this thread
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-assembly.html
read this thread
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-assembly.html

I have to agree... It's possible the motor is the wrong one... but if you pull it and picture it up for me I can ID it and tell you.
If it is the wrong motor this might explain some things. It's too easy to pull, you remove the three nuts that retain the motor to the firewall and then remove the bell crank nut.
Willcox





read this thread
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-assembly.html

I have to agree... It's possible the motor is the wrong one... but if you pull it and picture it up for me I can ID it and tell you.
If it is the wrong motor this might explain some things. It's too easy to pull, you remove the three nuts that retain the motor to the firewall and then remove the bell crank nut.
Willcox
Thanks!






If the writing on the stamp is not clear enough, it says:
DELCO PRODUCTS
DAYTON, OH
MADE IN U.S.A.
4918077
Further guidance is appreciated!
Edited to add: Clear enough or not, it's friggin' upside down! Frickin' iPhone!
Last edited by Derrick Reynolds; Jun 21, 2017 at 09:11 PM.








