wheatpj

I have a Summit Racing alternator I want to use in place of the OEM alternator on my 1971 Big Block. The Summit alternator puts out more Amps (100) and at lower RPMs. I have the loads split between electric cooling fans and the rest of the electrical system. The alternator is identical to the OEM unit except that the alternator case is bolted together 90 degrees out of phase with the OEM unit, which causes the ground connection to interfere with the engine valve cover. One of the product reviewers (on Summit’s site) indicated that he had to rotate the head on an alternator 90 degree for a perfect fit. What would it take to rotate the case 90 degrees? The case is held together with four (4) bolts. If I remove the pulley and the 4 bolts and separator the case enough to rotate it 90 degrees are any internal parts going to be come dislodged that I won’t be able to get back to together in working order? Can the case be rotated 90 degrees?

Richard454

Yep- If your good - only takes a couple minutes-

7T1vette

Hmmm.... Do you even have to remove the fan/pulley to re-clock it? I know that you will have to hold the [internal] contact brushes in place by inserting some straightened paper clips or pins into those little access holes in the back side of the housing; but I think if you do that, you can remove those four long assembly screws, separate the housing about 1/4-1/2" and turn it to align it 90* turned. Put the screws back in, pull the brush retainer pins, and that should do it.

{I think.... }

wheatpj

Wow, that looks easy.

Thanks

Kevova

You shouldn't need to remove power pulley. That's so rotor can stay in place and brushes don't pop out. Paper clip end will work. Make sure springs and brushes are in holder before you put it together. Pull out paperclip and give pulley a spin before installing alternator, make sure there is no noise. It sucks when omitting last step and rotor won't spin and then it does as pieces fly about.

Richard454

It makes it easier as not to accidentally let the brushes pop out. To find some paperclips- would take longer than unbolting the pulley.

7T1vette

Uhhh...Richard....you need the paperclips anyway so that you can assemble the thing.....

Richard454

Umm- no paperclips were harmed in the making of that youtube...

sunflower 1972

A wood or plastic tooth pick works just as well.

wheatpj

I reclocked the alternator as shown in the video. That was easy, the alternator seems to work fine.

Thanks Richard454 for posting the video.

7T1vette

If you can separate the housing sections enough to rotate them AND not drop the brushes out of their receivers, so be it. Can't say as I've ever tried it.

The13Bats

I find it easier for me to just use the pclips or toothpicks,
But i did wing it a few times without when i had to

REELAV8R

Not a bad video but you don't have to do half of what he did.

Don't need to remove pulley or fan and do not need to push the front of the alternator down.

Just remove the 4 bolts and rotate the back half. No need to separate the two even a millimeter. As a bonus you will have no worries about the brushes coming out either if done this way.

If allowed to separate too far, now you got to take the back half off put the brushes back in and insert a a straightened paper clip in from the outside to hold the brushes in place while you put it back together.

Mark the two halves relationship to each other so you know how far you rotated it or at least so if it does separate too much you can start from a know starting point when putting it back together.

I just had my 10SI apart yesterday to grease the rear bearing and noticed that clocking require no gap between the front and rear halves.

Richard454

GREAT- glad it worked for you!!!

Richard

lionelhutz

You MUST rotate the back half of the case and the stator together. The stator is the piece between the 2 halves of the case. You will damage the wires connecting the stator to the rectifier in the back half of the case if you only rotate the back half of the case.

I would agree on not removing the pulley. Just remove the bolts and put it on it's back with the pulley facing up holding it together as you do so. Then, lift up the front half of the case a little and rotate it to the right position.

REELAV8R

I guess I wasn't clear. The back half includes the stator, as it is wired to the back half and cannot be separated unless disassembled. The front half is all rotational components.

A significant difference between the stock delco-remy and the aftermarket 10SI is that the aftermarket mounting brackets do not interfere with the rear portion of the alternator in order to rotate the back half.
I compared my 110 aftermarket to my stock 63 amp and the stock one has the mounting brackets overlapping the point where the alternator splits which does require you to split them an additional 1/4" to 1/2" or so in order to change the clocking. The aftermarket alternator does not interfere with the clocking of the front to the rear.

Also noticed the aftermarket alternator has small holes drilled into the brushes so that a wire could be inserted prior to taking back half off to prevent the brushes from popping out. That is if the brushes are not too worn down.
Stock may have. On mine I can't tell, as the brushes are worn pretty short, beyond where a hole may have been located if it had been there.

lionelhutz

Yes, but the back half and the stator are not attached to each other, just the wires are going between then. So you can attempt to turn just the back half of the case.

I can't see a hole in the brushes being very useful because that wouldn't push the brushes back further into the holders so they clear the slip rings.

REELAV8R

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8

Life's full of learning, if you're receptive.

lionelhutz

You're wanting to learn something because your picture doesn't show anything new that I didn't know....

You have to push the brushes into the holders and then pin them so they are held pulled away from the slip rings.

Short reason for holes - the holes just allow you to pin back longer brushes.

Long reason for holes - those holes will be used in conjunction with another hole through the brush holder assembly. Together, a pin through all the holes will hold the brushes back far enough that the face of the brush DOES NOT contact the slip rings as the alternator is assembled. Then, once you pull the pin out the brushes will move out against the slip rings and you won't be able to get the pin back through the holes. The holes simply allow the pin to be used with longer brushes vs putting the pin across the slip ring face of the brushes.

So, your description of being able to use the holes before disassembly is simply wrong.