A/C Restoration Question
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Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: McDonough Georgia
A/C Restoration Question
I have a 70 with factory air that has never worked since I've owned it. I've been debating on whether I should try and fix it or replace it with a Vintage Air unit. I hear Vintage Air units are pretty good and not too difficult to install.
I have a feeling my compressor is shot and every other element is going to needs replacing, but I'm not an A/C person so I'm not sure.
Since the vehicle is mostly original and it is a matching number car I'd keep the original unit for decoration if it's not repairable
Anyway, please let me know your thoughts on how I should proceed.
Thanks,
Al
I have a feeling my compressor is shot and every other element is going to needs replacing, but I'm not an A/C person so I'm not sure.
Since the vehicle is mostly original and it is a matching number car I'd keep the original unit for decoration if it's not repairable
Anyway, please let me know your thoughts on how I should proceed.
Thanks,
Al
Last edited by ONeill202; Jul 26, 2017 at 08:28 PM.
Team Owner
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From: Crossville TN
If you have an a/c car, swapping to R-134a with a conversion kit is probably a better choice, unless you suspect a mechanical failure that put metallic debris in the system. The conversion kit provides a new Sanden compressor, brackets, main hoses and a replacement for the POA valve. Much less expensive than the Vintage Air system and much easier to install, since it re-uses the bulk of the original system (evaporator, condenser, system controls and ducting.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 174
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From: McDonough Georgia
If you have an a/c car, swapping to R-134a with a conversion kit is probably a better choice, unless you suspect a mechanical failure that put metallic debris in the system. The conversion kit provides a new Sanden compressor, brackets, main hoses and a replacement for the POA valve. Much less expensive than the Vintage Air system and much easier to install, since it re-uses the bulk of the original system (evaporator, condenser, system controls and ducting.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
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If you have a good AC/Radiator shop near you, you could bring it in to have them check the system. It could be something simple.
Original Air Group is one conversion kit. There are others out there. I just ordered a new original style compressor for my 80, I actually ordered it thru the Rock, but Amazon had them also. It was the cheapest, fastest way to get my AC back in the heat of the Summer. The shop I deal with told me to order one online, bolt it up and bring it back for them to recharge the system.
Original Air Group is one conversion kit. There are others out there. I just ordered a new original style compressor for my 80, I actually ordered it thru the Rock, but Amazon had them also. It was the cheapest, fastest way to get my AC back in the heat of the Summer. The shop I deal with told me to order one online, bolt it up and bring it back for them to recharge the system.
Last edited by BlackC3vette; Jul 27, 2017 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Added info
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,071
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From: palm springs ca
Al,
Don't give up on your A6 compressor. They are bullet proof if buba didn't pound a new clutch hub on or if it was dropped on the clutch which could bend the shaft.
I would suggest pressure testing the system rather than testing it pulling a vacuum. If you do pull a vacuum and pass and you do not see visible oil at the connections and clutch, you may be OK.
I have not seen one make metal. I do see 95% of them with rust inside because they are about the only part of the system that can rust. That doesn't stop them from doing their job. The mineral oil they use doesn't seem to prevent rust. There are newer oils that say they prevent corrosion.
You can always put a small charge in it and use a sniffer. I used propane.
Dom
Don't give up on your A6 compressor. They are bullet proof if buba didn't pound a new clutch hub on or if it was dropped on the clutch which could bend the shaft.
I would suggest pressure testing the system rather than testing it pulling a vacuum. If you do pull a vacuum and pass and you do not see visible oil at the connections and clutch, you may be OK.
I have not seen one make metal. I do see 95% of them with rust inside because they are about the only part of the system that can rust. That doesn't stop them from doing their job. The mineral oil they use doesn't seem to prevent rust. There are newer oils that say they prevent corrosion.
You can always put a small charge in it and use a sniffer. I used propane.
Dom
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: McDonough Georgia
If you have a good AC/Radiator shop near you, you could bring it in to have them check the system. It could be something simple.
Original Air Group is one conversion kit. There are others out there. I just ordered a new original style compressor for my 80, I actually ordered it thru the Rock, but Amazon had them also. It was the cheapest, fastest way to get my AC back in the heat of the Summer. The shop I deal with told me to order one online, bolt it up and bring it back for them to recharge the system.
Original Air Group is one conversion kit. There are others out there. I just ordered a new original style compressor for my 80, I actually ordered it thru the Rock, but Amazon had them also. It was the cheapest, fastest way to get my AC back in the heat of the Summer. The shop I deal with told me to order one online, bolt it up and bring it back for them to recharge the system.
Burning Brakes
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I am not going to say they were great. The AC in my 69 Nova, 73 & 72 camaros worked well with that style compressor. My 80 has a different style than your 70. I would try to find the problem first before changing out the whole system.
Last edited by BlackC3vette; Jul 27, 2017 at 07:34 PM.
Team Owner
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From: Crossville TN
I bought my conversion kit from Classic Auto Air. Very pleased with kit quality; all needed items were in the kit.
I do agree that you should have your existing system checked out first. I know of folks who had a defunct system for years...only to find out that the pressure switch went bad on it. Replaced the defective switch, vacuum/charge system and it worked fine!
Have your system checked FIRST. Once you know the fault[s] in the system, you can decide the best course of action: repair your existing system; go with a conversion kit; replace the entire system; leave it as "non-functional".
I do agree that you should have your existing system checked out first. I know of folks who had a defunct system for years...only to find out that the pressure switch went bad on it. Replaced the defective switch, vacuum/charge system and it worked fine!
Have your system checked FIRST. Once you know the fault[s] in the system, you can decide the best course of action: repair your existing system; go with a conversion kit; replace the entire system; leave it as "non-functional".
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jul 27, 2017 at 04:24 PM.
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Safety Car
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From: Bridgewater nj
If the system is still fully intact, I would try putting a vacuum on the system and see if it can hold a vac. But a system sitting that long, it might be more cost effective to go vintage air with better results.
Drifting
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From: Cartersville GA
Thread Starter
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From: McDonough Georgia
Here's what happened today.
I had all the controls set to off and the compressor connector disconnected. I started the engine and connected the compressor. The clutch engaged but the compressor pully didn't move. I'm assuming the compressor which I was told was new when I bought the car is frozen.
I had all the controls set to off and the compressor connector disconnected. I started the engine and connected the compressor. The clutch engaged but the compressor pully didn't move. I'm assuming the compressor which I was told was new when I bought the car is frozen.
Last edited by ONeill202; Jul 28, 2017 at 02:08 PM.
Team Owner
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From: Crossville TN
Anytime you purchase a car with the A/C "not working", it is NEVER a simple task to make it operational. If it were, the seller would have already fixed it so that the selling price could be higher. 
Probably a 'shot' compressor. You could run it by an A/C shop for a better opinion, but tell them that is ALL you want and know what the 'inspection' charge is before they touch it. If the compressor is bad, the next thing to do is remove the compressor and see if there is any trash (metallic debris) in the refrigerant lines hooked up to it. If not, you have a good candidate for a conversion kit; if you have debris in the system, it would probably be best to install the complete Vintage Air (or similar) system.
P.S. It is still "possible" that the bearing in the electric clutch (on the front of the compressor) is all that is bad. If that car had sat for many years, it was likely frozen and if energized, it could have just locked up. If that is the case, just changing the clutch may actually solve your problem. Again, the A/C shop would be able to tell if that is the case. If it is, just pay that shop to put on a new clutch, test compressor function (and maybe replace that front seal), then vacuum it down, charge it, and try it out. IT COULD HAPPEN!!!
Probably a 'shot' compressor. You could run it by an A/C shop for a better opinion, but tell them that is ALL you want and know what the 'inspection' charge is before they touch it. If the compressor is bad, the next thing to do is remove the compressor and see if there is any trash (metallic debris) in the refrigerant lines hooked up to it. If not, you have a good candidate for a conversion kit; if you have debris in the system, it would probably be best to install the complete Vintage Air (or similar) system.
P.S. It is still "possible" that the bearing in the electric clutch (on the front of the compressor) is all that is bad. If that car had sat for many years, it was likely frozen and if energized, it could have just locked up. If that is the case, just changing the clutch may actually solve your problem. Again, the A/C shop would be able to tell if that is the case. If it is, just pay that shop to put on a new clutch, test compressor function (and maybe replace that front seal), then vacuum it down, charge it, and try it out. IT COULD HAPPEN!!!
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jul 28, 2017 at 09:10 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: palm springs ca
Good advice, but if the pulley stops the belt will burn. The bearing is in the pulley and the electro magnet pulls the clutch (very front) hub to the spinning pulley to engage the inner works of the compressor. Any time the engine is running the pulley will turn. The clutch magnet will pull the front hub to the pulley and turn the inner works of the compressor.
Never found any metal in a A6 compressor, so rest easy there. Hope this helps.
Dom
Never found any metal in a A6 compressor, so rest easy there. Hope this helps.
Dom
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 174
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From: McDonough Georgia
Anytime you purchase a car with the A/C "not working", it is NEVER a simple task to make it operational. If it were, the seller would have already fixed it so that the selling price could be higher.
Probably a 'shot' compressor. You could run it by an A/C shop for a better opinion, but tell them that is ALL you want and know what the 'inspection' charge is before they touch it. If the compressor is bad, the next thing to do is remove the compressor and see if there is any trash (metallic debris) in the refrigerant lines hooked up to it. If not, you have a good candidate for a conversion kit; if you have debris in the system, it would probably be best to install the complete Vintage Air (or similar) system.
P.S. It is still "possible" that the bearing in the electric clutch (on the front of the compressor) is all that is bad. If that car had sat for many years, it was likely frozen and if energized, it could have just locked up. If that is the case, just changing the clutch may actually solve your problem. Again, the A/C shop would be able to tell if that is the case. If it is, just pay that shop to put on a new clutch, test compressor function (and maybe replace that front seal), then vacuum it down, charge it, and try it out. IT COULD HAPPEN!!!
Probably a 'shot' compressor. You could run it by an A/C shop for a better opinion, but tell them that is ALL you want and know what the 'inspection' charge is before they touch it. If the compressor is bad, the next thing to do is remove the compressor and see if there is any trash (metallic debris) in the refrigerant lines hooked up to it. If not, you have a good candidate for a conversion kit; if you have debris in the system, it would probably be best to install the complete Vintage Air (or similar) system.
P.S. It is still "possible" that the bearing in the electric clutch (on the front of the compressor) is all that is bad. If that car had sat for many years, it was likely frozen and if energized, it could have just locked up. If that is the case, just changing the clutch may actually solve your problem. Again, the A/C shop would be able to tell if that is the case. If it is, just pay that shop to put on a new clutch, test compressor function (and maybe replace that front seal), then vacuum it down, charge it, and try it out. IT COULD HAPPEN!!!
Last edited by ONeill202; Jul 29, 2017 at 09:34 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
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If you disconnect the electrical connector from the compressor, does the clutch disengage? If so, the problem will be in your controls.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: McDonough Georgia
On another note, I have my heater door closed but it still seems like heat is making its way in to the cabin. Have you by-passed your heater core? If so how did you do it? I'm trying to get the cabin a bit cooler considering the 100 degree weather we are having here....
Last edited by ONeill202; Jul 29, 2017 at 05:40 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: palm springs ca
I think that the question that BLACK C3 asked is something that needs to be answered and it's a simple pull on the connector that is on the compressor.
If it does turn, (the front hub with the rubber), with the connector un plugged and engine running, then your clutch is fused together.
As I said in my other post, If the pulley won't turn, the belt will burn because the pulley ALWAYS turns and the belt will be slipping across the frozen pulley making one he!! of a noise. No such thing as a clutch bearing on a A6.
Dom
If it does turn, (the front hub with the rubber), with the connector un plugged and engine running, then your clutch is fused together.
As I said in my other post, If the pulley won't turn, the belt will burn because the pulley ALWAYS turns and the belt will be slipping across the frozen pulley making one he!! of a noise. No such thing as a clutch bearing on a A6.
Dom