Please HELP with engine build advice!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 364
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From: Point Pleasant New Jersey
Please HELP with engine build advice!
So, this winter I'm yanking the original 350 L48 out of my '76. I have a small budget to do some engine work. So far, I've decided on the Edelbrock 2022 power package, and I'm considering doing some block work, but my bottom end knowledge isn't quite honed yet... and I've got a bunch of questions. After the kit, I've got maybe another $1,000 to work with. It's been suggested to me by my local know-it-all self-proclaimed speedmaster neighbor who happens to stop by everytime I uncover my Vette, that as long as I have the block out, I might as well get it hot tanked, decked to 9, and bored 30 over. He said that should run me about $300 (he's an old timer, so I don't know in what decade he's basing that cost!). Is that a good suggestion? If so, would I need new pistons and/or rings? Would I need any crank work? Or do I need ANY of this, and should I just keep my block as-is since it's running fine now? I'm just a mellow street cruiser, track times are of no concern to me. My goal is just to build a nice solid street motor with a little extra punch, and to look and sound good while I'm at it. I'd like to keep as much of my budget as possible for other restoration and repair costs, so again, my budget is key here. Thanks guys!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2016
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Is your bottom end good? No smoke or any funny noises? Compression test?
I would steer you away from that Edelbrock kit. Not a great cam and you can do better on heads for similar money.
If your bottom end is pretty solid I would recommend Vortec heads on a budget. The smaller combustion chamber (64cc vs 76cc) will raise your compression a point. I would also use a shim style head gasket to get another half point of compression.
If you have more budget, some profiler heads would do the trick as well.
I had a stock L48 motor that I put a Lunati 268 cam, Brodix IK heads, and a performer RPM intake on and it PULLS!
I would steer you away from that Edelbrock kit. Not a great cam and you can do better on heads for similar money.
If your bottom end is pretty solid I would recommend Vortec heads on a budget. The smaller combustion chamber (64cc vs 76cc) will raise your compression a point. I would also use a shim style head gasket to get another half point of compression.
If you have more budget, some profiler heads would do the trick as well.
I had a stock L48 motor that I put a Lunati 268 cam, Brodix IK heads, and a performer RPM intake on and it PULLS!
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Estreet imo better than the vortecs, the EPS is a good piece also
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2022/10002/-1
Cams a little on the small side..... if it were me on a stock shortblock id use something like a 264 Isky, plenty of others
Youre not going to rebuild that for $300...if it were me just do the top end, once you pull the heads youll see if somethings really amiss
Didnt notice if it came with a timing chain but would be a good time to replace it they are cheap.
Should run pretty strong & be reliable, good manners.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2022/10002/-1
Cams a little on the small side..... if it were me on a stock shortblock id use something like a 264 Isky, plenty of others
Youre not going to rebuild that for $300...if it were me just do the top end, once you pull the heads youll see if somethings really amiss
Didnt notice if it came with a timing chain but would be a good time to replace it they are cheap.
Should run pretty strong & be reliable, good manners.
Last edited by cv67; Aug 1, 2017 at 04:53 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Kissimmee fl
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St. Jude Donor '07
If you deck it you will loose the factory numbers, if that matters. If you bore it,you will also need new pistons. It all starts to add up.
Last edited by c69vete; Aug 1, 2017 at 05:25 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
He can keep his #s and deck it
Is it that crucial for a 77? Especially if he is modifying it
if you stroke it its practically the same $ to go 383.
Maybe pull the heads off first, check it out and talk to your machinist talk about some alternatives then start buying parts.
Is it that crucial for a 77? Especially if he is modifying it
if you stroke it its practically the same $ to go 383.
Maybe pull the heads off first, check it out and talk to your machinist talk about some alternatives then start buying parts.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Lincoln, CA
Get a quote to do the short block using as many of the factory parts as possible.
If your going to go though the trouble of pulling the motor go all the way.
Tear down, hot tank, clean the oil passages, condition the rods and crank.
If they bore it new pistons, balance the whole thing.
Make sure to match the Edelbrock kit compression target.
If your going to go though the trouble of pulling the motor go all the way.
Tear down, hot tank, clean the oil passages, condition the rods and crank.
If they bore it new pistons, balance the whole thing.
Make sure to match the Edelbrock kit compression target.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
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From: Napa Valley California
There are a multitude of head, intake and cam shaft combinations available on the market. Find the one that is going to give you the best hp and torque in the rpm range you need the increase with how you drive your car. If you have money left over and you don't have them, I would consider a good set of headers and upgraded exhaust system that will enhance the heads, intake and cam you choose.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: NSW, Australia
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If you are getting into the bottom end, a scat 9000 3.75" stroke (to make it a 383 if .030 over) is a great piece for your goals, and will barely cost any more than machining your existing crank. Reuse your rods, or for a little extra money the Scat 6" rods are very good pieces. If you're buying pistons, may as well buy them for a stroker long rod engine - pistons will cost much the same, rods and crank will be no more than a couple hundred $ more than refreshing the stock parts, and you'll get a big bump in torque, usability, longevity, and hp. No brainer in my opinion.
Last edited by Metalhead140; Aug 1, 2017 at 06:57 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Spring Park MN
Here's a link to a Hot Rod Magazine test of heads under $1000. The E-Street are included in this test.http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-...head-shootout/
Mike
Melting Slicks
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2016
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I realize that, but my point was you can get almost as much power from a set of Vortec heads for much less, or you can spend a TINY bit more and get MUCH better heads from Profiler. Those Edelbrocks are average at best. Flow numbers don't tell the whole story, look up some dyno numbers. I considered the Edelbrocks when I was putting my top end together because their flow #s seemed halfway ok for the price, but after seeing what they actually put down on the dyno I realized I might as well go with Vortecs or spend a bit more. Ended up scoring a great deal on some Brodix heads.
The big power limiter in that kit is the cam. VERY old grind. There are better suited cams for your engine, and the newer cam grinds (like the Lunati 268 or 262) have less aggressive lobe angles so they are easier on parts and will make more usable power.
Pick your heads and intake first, and then talk to a cam maker about which cam you should get. The cam should be the last thing you pick so it will match the rest of your build.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2016
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If your exhaust is already sorted and all you want is a good street motor, then definitely just get upgraded heads, cam, intake as long as your bottom end is good. If your bottom end is shot, then I would absolutely opt for a stroker kit. It would be silly to rebuild your bottom end and keep it a 350 when a 383 costs so little more. More cubes, more power.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
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Are you doing this with the motor in or out of the car. If it's out I would pull the pistons, scuff the the cylinders/ light hone, replace the rings and replace the bearings. You don't need to bore it out, hot tank it or deck it. The cost of the rings and bearings I under $500 and will keep your motor in your car for that much longer without worrying about the rings going bad
For what it's worth, just changing the heads on my 350 from stock to world products with a 2.5 exhaust increased my flow through my motor so much I went from a tuned 6oo up to a 750. Huge difference. I can't wait to get my original 327 built and back in it
For what it's worth, just changing the heads on my 350 from stock to world products with a 2.5 exhaust increased my flow through my motor so much I went from a tuned 6oo up to a 750. Huge difference. I can't wait to get my original 327 built and back in it
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Aug 2, 2017 at 12:26 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Port St. Lucie Fl
For what you want, I would be looking for either alum. 113 heads or cast iron 350 TPI heads. Should be able to find them cheap, not as prone to cracking as vortecs, dont require expensive intake. Buy a cam and put it all to work.
