mrvette

The fuel lines on my '72 have always been fine....but tmrw. is another day on a old car, I did have to replace the rear main brake line from front to rear down the driver side, and it would be the same for your gas line....IE...no fun, but doooooooable with enough cussing....and always a bigger hammer.....

Alan 71

Hi,
" it would be the same for your gas line"

There is no similarity in the work required to replace the brake line on the left-side frame rail and the gas line and return line on the right side rail.
The brake line doesn't go up over the kick up onto the top of the rear frame rail as the gas lines do. That's where the difficulty arises!
Regards,
Alan

Rev Ron

Alan, I think I have found an answer? As I got on my knees (praying!) and on my back, looking at in the fender well, frame & under the car... I noticed a hole at the bottom/corner of the fender well where there had been some previous (but repaired) corrosion. The hole is about the size of a quarter. It is right beside the frame. Soooooo, I am thinking... as I run a 3/8" gas line down the frame rail, instead of threading it inside and up (that's where all the trouble begins)... I will thread it up over/beside/ to the outside of the frame rail... through the hole... then move it behind the frame, between the frame and the body so it will still be protected. I ASSUME the body does not move as there is just enough distance for the 3/8" line and a little more so it won't rub. I wonder when the factory did not think of this in the first place as it is much easier & it still is protected. Even if it does not go behind the frame, there is a crease there where IT SEEMS the gas line can fit & not be exposed. Oh well, let's see what you all say...

Alan 71

Hi RR,
If I'm understanding you correctly you'll run the line here?
If so, that seems like a solution.
Regards,
Alan

Rev Ron

Yes. Since there is already a quarter size hole in the fender well exactly beside the frame... then I can run it through the hole & up, on top of the frame. That will leave very little gas line to be vulnerable. Are you going to the Carlisle Show? I have never been, this being my first Corvette. I am expecting to be there for a day (that is payback for taking my wife on vacation the rest of the time.) I am thinking of either Friday or Saturday. Any recommendation on what is best. I am looking for a few parts... who knows, maybe I will find a 4 hole luggage rack!

Alan 71

Hi RR,
A first trip to Carlisle will be a big deal for you!
I'd say Friday would be a wise choice, it will be crowded, but not as crowded as Saturday.

The area for the parts swap and the 'early' cars gets smaller and smaller each year as the area for the new and 'newish' cars and aftermarket parts for them grows.
It's a pretty clear reflection of where people are spending their Corvette money now.

Good luck with the luggage rack search…. you never know!!!
Regards,
Alan

69Vett

return line can also leak gas, pressure test the line to find if it leaks.
loosen all body mounts, and other mounting points, remove passenger side mounts,
then jack up passenger side slowly about 4 " up. this is enough to snake the fuel lines thru the body and frame.
much easier on a lift.
use all steel line on corvettes, gas and fiberglass burn very well, ... to the ground.

cv67

Hack it up make it safe and motor on. Summit sells all kinds of good stuff that holds up to fuel;thats one thing Id let the next guy worry about

carriljc

Can you post a picture or your proposed hole to be used. That is the general area where I was thinking about drilling an access path.

Wilsonhvac

I just replaced all the fuel lines with stainless prebent lines while the body is on. I removed the crossmember and exhaust since going through transmission anyway. The main 3/8" fuel line was a mother getting up over the rear wheel frame and only slightly out of shape from perfect on top of frame behind tire. This was not easy and spent better part of a day on 3 lines but can be done. Probably not if trying for restoration perfect but turned out very decent. Lots of bloody knuckles. Have fun. Regular steel lines I think would be easy to bend.

Lobzila

Something to think about on the return line. If you plan on upgrading to fuel injection in the future, it will require a larger diameter return line than the stock one. I did a body off on my car and put new lines in it. I put a 3/8th" primary line in and 5/16th" return line with the ambition that when the fuel injection unit prices drop a bit, I would get one. But last time I looked at one, I saw a larger diameter return line is required. And I have no plan to ever lift the body off my frame again, way too big a job!

63mako

I just replaced tank to fuel pump with AN6 braided stainless steel yesterday. I went between the body and inner frame. Snaking it through where the kickup is took a couple hours of cussing but it is all between the frame rails and out of sight NHRA approved also. I will get some photos. Had about 12 hours in it total. it wedges up in the void nicely but crossmember to firewall had to go at the very top of the frame against the floor and pushed from the rear forward. There was literally exactly the needed room, no more.

81vettski

Wow. I just completed mine on an 81 and don't really know, if any, the difference in the frame on a 70. But I could not even get to 2 clamps without raising the body. And in this particular area, there was no possibility of snaking it thru without raising the body, and it was still difficult but doable. And I have no rear end in the car. I also had to lower the tranny crossmember to get it against the frame. I went with the SS lines and they were very durable with all the contorting involved. Good luck

Pa'svette

marshal135

I can not believe the NCRS has not used Alan's Photo history of his car
for the 1971 judging manual.
I thinks its pretty simple, it either looks like this in the photo's or its a deduction.....right?
I need an Alan with a 1968......
Marshal