Rev Ron

Tell me it isn't true! I am restoring my first Vette, 1970. I put on a new gas tank, rebuild the motor and tranny. I go to start it and it runs horrible. I come into the shop the next morn & find gas on the floor. Oh no, there is a leak in the gas line right in front of the passenger rear tire. It has a leak up in there & I need to replace the gas lines! From what I read... please tell me a better way of replacing them than having to jack up the body. I'm not building a show car, but I sure want it super safe!

68notray

No other way. Unless you want to cut and splice the new lines. The body isn't really hard to separate and it only needs to be raised about 8". I prefer the carbon steel, they are more flexible than stainless

Alan 71

Hi RR,

"The body isn't really hard to separate"
???

I think raising the body on a 70 is tremendous amount of work.
Just for starters you have to deal with 8 body mounts which may never have been apart since the car was assembled.
Then there are all the brackets for the front bumpers and bumper-ettes and the rear bumpers.
The core support to the forward crossmember needs to be unbolted.
The radiator hoses may need to be loosened.
Then the connections from the firewall to the engine need to be considered.
The clutch linkage needs to be removed.
And many more small things.

Some people report changing the fuel line with the body in place by bending and unbending the line to get it to fit up over the frame kick-up. I've note seen any photos of what their results look like.

I agree that you need to use the original type bundy steel lines… the stainless lines are very stiff and difficult to bend and then unbend.

Definitely not just an easy morning's work.
Good Luck.

Regards,
Alan

Rev Ron

It sounds like I need to hear from someone who have not unbolted the body and have 'shaped' the line to fit.

NewbVetteGuy

I'm definitely still a newb at all of this, but isn't there a section of rubber fuel line up front by the passenger tire?

Is it possible that it's just this 40-year-old rubber hose that needs replacing and not his entire fuel line?



You've got a 70 Vette that could actually have some collector value, but with my 79 and my EFI conversion, I'm just running new flexible fuel line. An option worth considering for a moment, although I'm sure it will horrify Alan.


Adam

NewbVetteGuy

After a quick search, YES, YES there is a rubber fuel hose up by the front passenger frame (on 1970-1982 C3s): http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1970-1981.html

Are you sure it's not just this small section of rubber hose that's the source of your fuel leak? (or the fuel pump itself) -I had a leak in this same section of my car recently; the "S" hose by the frame, and a not-from-the-factory small section of rubber hose up by the intake/carb (steel line was previously cut off), AND the fuel pump were all leaking...




Adam

Alan 71

Hi,
Supply and return on a 71.
Regards,
Alan

SciVette

Alan- I know you've heard this a thousand times, but your photos are amazing. They're like a dream version of the Assembly Manual. I pray those photos are backed up in 3 redundant electronic locations and physical copies are stored in a safe deposit box in some nondescript, bomb/fire/terrorist-proof building in Zurich...

Alan 71

Hi SV,
Thank You!
I'm always pleased when people find the photos interesting and useful.
Regards,
Alan

Rev Ron

Ok, you all have got me thinking some. I will give the car another close look. The gas is coming out of the hole in the bottom of the frame right in front of the rear passenger wheel. I have taken that wheel off, but cannot see the exact spot that the leak is originating from.
If there is a leak up front... can it come down the frame, on the inside? More to come...

68notray

I raised only the back body section and was able to wiggle steel lines in, with a little bending and unbending. Took about 4 hrs. Stainless would be a no go.

Rev Ron

Yep, a definite leak in the steel line, itself. It comes down the inside rail and is leaking just as it makes the 90 degree turn, then goes up. The leak is at that turn. Gotta replace fuel lines.

Alan 71

Hi RR,
It's the part of the line that goes 'vertical' at the kick-up that makes it so difficult.
The underbody is very close to the frame at that point so there's only about an inch or so of room to get the line 'threaded' through.
PATIENCE!
Regards,
Alan

Rev Ron

As I am doing my homework to replace the metal fuel line... tell me the pros and cons of installing a new 3/8" metal fuel line down the frame... then install a braided fuel line through the difficult place at the rear & all the way out to the gas tank. That way, I have but one splice. Yes, I know it is not the factory way, but I am not building a show car, though I do believe in safety! Yes, I know it can rot, but not any worse than the metal line that rusts. Yes, I know I will have to install it so it will not rub anything & then rub a hole in it. Now what?

jb78L-82

Sounds like it CAN be done with the body on and I agree with Alan that lifting the body is NOT easy and I would definitely avoid that option, if it was me, especially since it not a show car. I see a few options:

1. Carbon Steel, the whole line, utilizing patience and ingenuity for the difficult "vertical section" that Allan referenced. Unless the car is a daily driver used often in rain and especially snow/salt, the lines will last for another 50 years. Where will you be 50 years from now?

2. Utilize Stainless steel for most of the line and switch to carbon steel for the difficult vertical section

3. Utilize carbon steel or stainless steel for most of the lines and switch to braided flexible stainless steel for the difficult vertical section back to the tank. Heck, braided stainless steel lines on my 78 C3 close to the calipers look brand new on the front calipers where the front wheels turn and they occasionally rub near the frame...zero wear.....on the c3 for 27 years now. Also use flexible stainless hoses on 2 other cars near the front calipers and 1 car a daily driver with 150,000 miles on it, shows zero wear where the line runs through a front caliper bracket and has movement. SS flex lines are VERY durable. You could even run some 3/8 inch plastic flex wire conduit in the area around the line to protect it further from random body abrasion.

Lots of options that do not involve lifting the body on a non show car and all will be safe.

carriljc

I have been running a braided fuel line for about 12 years. I've been thinking of replacing that here shortly, and I would even consider drilling and welding to create a new access path to the back end.
As far as your short run of braided fuel line I would do that if I had to.

GBC

Make sure the flex line you use will be ok with to days gas, some are not.

7T1vette

You can run your fuel line wherever you want it, as long as it is in a 'protected' zone where it will not be easily damaged or suffer a 'wear-thru' from rubbing on something.

If you don't feel the need for the fuel line to be in the exact place it came from the factory, then put it where you NEED it. If you need to cut the line and rejoin it with a quality compression fitting, so be it.

The main thing is that the line is well made and in a protected location. Other than that, you be the judge.

How many folks are going to see where your fuel line runs???

trainmankjm

Having just finished my fuel line passenger side body mount replacement project I will say it's just about impossible to do without lifting the body at least 10" or so off the frame.
I used copper nickel line that I was able to form up and over the over the frame.
I purchased ss lines and returned them since I only raised the body on the passenger side 4" to paint frame and replace body mounts.
As stated on other posts you could use compression fittings or braided lines if you do not have the time or inclination to raise the body
I also installed armor over the copper nickel line at approximately same locations as original factory lines

Rev Ron

Thanks for all the inputs. I'm figuring it out. Now, all I've talked about so far is the fuel line itself. How about the return line? Is the return line an actual liquid fuel return line or is it more of a vapor line where gas vapors are recycled? Does it need replaced, too? I am thinking, maybe wrongly, that if it is no more than a vapor line, it lasts a long, long time and does not need replaced, too.