Battery Specs
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
Actually, a 'swelling' case would get larger, as would the bushing bores and bearing bores (dimensions/pieces getting smaller might actually cause binding). Sorry Paul...old wives tale. Bad connections, deteriorating wiring, no main engine ground wire are the real causes of "heat soak" problem. As I mentioned, the starter solenoid winding might also be sensitive to heat... IF there is some wiring problem/deterioration there; but the other items are more likely to occur.
well, I guess on this one we will have to agree to disagree:-)
do a search on the forum... you may change your mind...
I NEVER changed any of the cables and or connectors on the starter/battery/alternator. and I had this problem over and over again...many years later and at least 4 starters with THIS problem.. went to gear reduction... never looked back. So again, imho, you are wrong.
Edit:
I live in So California, in the desert, always dry, car has always been parked inside.. so corrosion does not exist here... purchased her 1 year old, .... maybe that is why I have less problems with cables and connecters. :-)
Last edited by pauldana; Oct 9, 2017 at 10:35 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,753
Likes: 721
From: Lafayette Louisiana
My experience,..
Running my 454 68 at Cruisin the Coast at Mississippi Gulf Coast this past weekend, hot outside and stuck in stop and go traffic for an hour, stopped to get gas at a busy gas station (pre hurricane customers), and dang would not start.
So, with help, pushed it out of the way so others could buy gas, waited 45min, jumped it with another 08 and cranked right up. Cold next day, cranked great.
Had this problem before, installed mini starter, installed starter heat shield, wrapped the exhaust (no headers), and still have problems but not as bad. So will install new cables next (engine to grd is in place). If still have problems, will install a remote solenoid. Oh, btw, I notice the previous owner left out the heat riser so exhaust was leaking onto the starter (hmmmmm,......) sooooooo, installed new spacer/donuts too.
I really think if you have heat soak problems all of these things can cause it so you just keeping doing more until you get it right.
Hope this helps and lots of fun conversations with car lovers while waiting for the 454 to cool off so not a complete waste
Interesting reads:
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
http://madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml
(good info at the bottom of this link by MAD, GM hot start problems)
(All suggestions are welcome!)
So, with help, pushed it out of the way so others could buy gas, waited 45min, jumped it with another 08 and cranked right up. Cold next day, cranked great.
Had this problem before, installed mini starter, installed starter heat shield, wrapped the exhaust (no headers), and still have problems but not as bad. So will install new cables next (engine to grd is in place). If still have problems, will install a remote solenoid. Oh, btw, I notice the previous owner left out the heat riser so exhaust was leaking onto the starter (hmmmmm,......) sooooooo, installed new spacer/donuts too.
I really think if you have heat soak problems all of these things can cause it so you just keeping doing more until you get it right.
Hope this helps and lots of fun conversations with car lovers while waiting for the 454 to cool off so not a complete waste
Interesting reads:
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
http://madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml
(good info at the bottom of this link by MAD, GM hot start problems)
(All suggestions are welcome!)
Last edited by 20mercury; Oct 8, 2017 at 11:36 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 996
Likes: 13
From: Dallas TX
Assuming the windings of the starter were copper, the temperature coefficient of resistance for copper is around .4% increase per 1.8 F increase in temperature. So a 100 F increase in the temperature of copper wire will increase its resistance by ((100/1.8)*.004) or 22%. An increase in resistance of 22% would drop current (1/1.22) or 18%.
When you're picking out that next starter, it's probably not a bad thing to get one a bit bigger than required or invest in some shielding if it's close to an exhaust.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Unless you have big [unwrapped] headers running right next to your starter, my starter gets about as hot as your starter. So, why do you have the problem and not me? (rhetorical question....but I bet you have a doozy of an answer)
I know several folks who have had the dreaded "hot start problem" with Chevy V8 engines. All have been battery problems or power/ground wiring problems. You may have something completely different. But I'm doubtful.
Let us know what you find when you finally identify the problem.
I know several folks who have had the dreaded "hot start problem" with Chevy V8 engines. All have been battery problems or power/ground wiring problems. You may have something completely different. But I'm doubtful.
Let us know what you find when you finally identify the problem.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Oct 10, 2017 at 12:03 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,458
Likes: 331
From: Indy Indiana
Guys... simple solution, if your car won't start when hot, try jumping it with another car.. if it cranks and starts then the problem is NOT in your cables/starter/connections. if it cranks fine and starts with jumper cables then your circuit is fine. it will and does pass the amps required.
if it cranks and starts with jumpers as a supplement to your existing battery and will not crank ( or crank slow) without jumpers connected, then your circuit and connections are fine and your battery is not supplying the amps required to start a hot car.
go out and buy you a battery that will supply the amps that a hot engine requires.
get the biggest and baddest most cranking amps battery you can find.
if your car will not start with jumper cables, then yes, the problem is not in your battery.
if it cranks and starts with jumpers as a supplement to your existing battery and will not crank ( or crank slow) without jumpers connected, then your circuit and connections are fine and your battery is not supplying the amps required to start a hot car.
go out and buy you a battery that will supply the amps that a hot engine requires.
get the biggest and baddest most cranking amps battery you can find.
if your car will not start with jumper cables, then yes, the problem is not in your battery.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Likewise, if you jumper the car and it DOES NOT start, the problem is highly likely to be the cables, connections, missing engine ground cable, or starter solenoid.
You should get all the possibilities for consideration....
You should get all the possibilities for consideration....
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
[QUOTE=7T1vette;1595775808]Likewise, if you jumper the car and it DOES NOT start, the problem is highly likely to be the cables, connections, missing engine ground cable, or starter solenoid.
You should get all the possibilities for consideration....[/QUOTE
Again... I disagree... look up heat soak guys.. its the starter..
You should get all the possibilities for consideration....[/QUOTE
Again... I disagree... look up heat soak guys.. its the starter..
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