Battery Specs
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Battery Specs
Hello guys,
My C3 does not crank/turn on after about 3/4 hours of driving.
Turned it off and was unable to turn it back on..
My guess is the alternator can't handle the power consumption of the 2 electric fans or the battery isn't correct.
Even thought it didnt crank, I was still able to close the electric windows.
As of right now it has 12V 70ah 700 Hugel Battery.
What are the right specs for a C3 with 2 electric fans?
much appreciated
My C3 does not crank/turn on after about 3/4 hours of driving.
Turned it off and was unable to turn it back on..
My guess is the alternator can't handle the power consumption of the 2 electric fans or the battery isn't correct.
Even thought it didnt crank, I was still able to close the electric windows.
As of right now it has 12V 70ah 700 Hugel Battery.
What are the right specs for a C3 with 2 electric fans?
much appreciated
Pro
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 516
Likes: 72
From: Modesto California
Hello guys,
My C3 does not crank/turn on after about 3/4 hours of driving.
Turned it off and was unable to turn it back on..
My guess is the alternator can't handle the power consumption of the 2 electric fans or the battery isn't correct.
Even thought it didnt crank, I was still able to close the electric windows.
As of right now it has 12V 70ah 700 Hugel Battery.
What are the right specs for a C3 with 2 electric fans?
much appreciated
My C3 does not crank/turn on after about 3/4 hours of driving.
Turned it off and was unable to turn it back on..
My guess is the alternator can't handle the power consumption of the 2 electric fans or the battery isn't correct.
Even thought it didnt crank, I was still able to close the electric windows.
As of right now it has 12V 70ah 700 Hugel Battery.
What are the right specs for a C3 with 2 electric fans?
much appreciated
It sounds like your alternator isn't charging. Turn your key ON then stick a little skinny screwdriver up against the rear bearing. It should be magnetized enough to hold the screwdriver against it. If it's not magnetized try wiggling your SMALL side plugin wire and see if that makes the screwdriver stick. If it does the small wire is broken inside of the female spade terminal inside the plugin. A broken wire inside the plugin is one of the most common failures of the OEM style alternators and it's easily fixed because those plugins are readily available at all of the auto parts stores for about $3.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,948
Likes: 4,506
From: Virginia
It sounds like your alternator isn't charging. Turn your key ON then stick a little skinny screwdriver up against the rear bearing. It should be magnetized enough to hold the screwdriver against it. If it's not magnetized try wiggling your SMALL side plugin wire and see if that makes the screwdriver stick. If it does the small wire is broken inside of the female spade terminal inside the plugin. A broken wire inside the plugin is one of the most common failures of the OEM style alternators and it's easily fixed because those plugins are readily available at all of the auto parts stores for about $3.
You can also use a multi-meter. Your voltage while the engine is running should be 13.5 to 15 or so. With the engine off, it should be above 12. I bet it's about 10 or 11, enough to run the windows, but not crank it. Do you have a battery charger?
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
One of the fans powers On automatically (thermostat?) the other fan you have to switch it on, by a manual switch..
what kind of battery shouls i get (amp, cca?), I'll have a look at the altenator but, for now i just want to be able to crank the engine over and have power..
thanks for the help
what kind of battery shouls i get (amp, cca?), I'll have a look at the altenator but, for now i just want to be able to crank the engine over and have power..
thanks for the help
Pro
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 516
Likes: 72
From: Modesto California
One of the fans powers On automatically (thermostat?) the other fan you have to switch it on, by a manual switch..
what kind of battery shouls i get (amp, cca?), I'll have a look at the altenator but, for now i just want to be able to crank the engine over and have power..
thanks for the help
what kind of battery shouls i get (amp, cca?), I'll have a look at the altenator but, for now i just want to be able to crank the engine over and have power..
thanks for the help
Batteries are rated in "cold cranking amps" (CCA) and I usually buy the most I can get because my '71 is my daily driver. If your alternator isn't charging any new battery will get drained quickly so it's imperative your alternator charges; especially with electric fans because they draw so many amps. Any "name brand" battery rated for 5 years is what you want.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 992
Likes: 56
From: Baldwinsville, NY
I when to Advance Auto and just looked at medium priced batteries, 700 CCA is in the middle. 560 was the lowest and 800 was the high priced ones.
Last edited by mikep3; Oct 3, 2017 at 07:17 AM. Reason: Link was not working
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Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,458
Likes: 331
From: Indy Indiana
A hot engine takes more amps to crank than a cold engine.
will it start a couple of hours later after cooling off? or do you have to jump or charge the battery before it will start?
with a voltage meter, test your battery voltage
1. while running
2. while cranking the engine cold
3. while cranking the engine hot ( when it won't start)
4. while your electric fans are running ( with engine running).
let us know.
how old is your battery? a brand new, biggest cranking amp battery you can find, will usually solve a lot of problems. batterys lose about 10% capacity/cranking amps a year due to aging.
will it start a couple of hours later after cooling off? or do you have to jump or charge the battery before it will start?
with a voltage meter, test your battery voltage
1. while running
2. while cranking the engine cold
3. while cranking the engine hot ( when it won't start)
4. while your electric fans are running ( with engine running).
let us know.
how old is your battery? a brand new, biggest cranking amp battery you can find, will usually solve a lot of problems. batterys lose about 10% capacity/cranking amps a year due to aging.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Lots of 'unknowns' about your car. The problem could be that the battery (and/or ground) cables for your car are in bad shape (internally) or are making bad connection. Or, the main engine/starter ground wire (from right/front frame to right motor mount) is missing altogether. So, your problem may have nothing to do with the fans, battery, or alternator.
When your car is started and idling, does the ammeter show that it is charging (+ amps reading)? If so, your alternator is working fine. And, since windows rollup (take several amps to do so), I suspect a cable problem.
When your car is started and idling, does the ammeter show that it is charging (+ amps reading)? If so, your alternator is working fine. And, since windows rollup (take several amps to do so), I suspect a cable problem.
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Lots of 'unknowns' about your car. The problem could be that the battery (and/or ground) cables for your car are in bad shape (internally) or are making bad connection. Or, the main engine/starter ground wire (from right/front frame to right motor mount) is missing altogether. So, your problem may have nothing to do with the fans, battery, or alternator.
When your car is started and idling, does the ammeter show that it is charging (+ amps reading)? If so, your alternator is working fine. And, since windows rollup (take several amps to do so), I suspect a cable problem.
When your car is started and idling, does the ammeter show that it is charging (+ amps reading)? If so, your alternator is working fine. And, since windows rollup (take several amps to do so), I suspect a cable problem.
The wiring on the alternator seems that one of the previous owners messed with it.
I`ll post some pictures asap.
Much appreciate all the help and tips.
Safe rides!
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If the ammeter did not show a big discharge (- amps) right after the car was started (and one of the radiator fans was turning), then your alternator and battery are probably fine. You need to validate condition (and presence) of all required battery/starter positive and ground cables.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Oct 4, 2017 at 01:14 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,814
Likes: 469
From: Wichita Kansas
Use to be that you could easily test the alternator by first starting the car, and after it is running, pull one of the battery cables. The car should continue to run if the alternator is doing it's job. If the car quits, then the alternator is bad....... PS be careful handling battery cables while car is running.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
many chevys do especially ones with headers
ministarter that is clockable is a nice upgrade, summit sells some heat wrap cheap to help it a little more
Wouldnt buy a battery just yet one thing at a time
ministarter that is clockable is a nice upgrade, summit sells some heat wrap cheap to help it a little more
Wouldnt buy a battery just yet one thing at a time
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
Not really sure why, but they do .... maybe the tightness and inclosed heat area around it? Anyway they do, just the way it is.. get a good mini starter and never look back.. and loose 10 pounds to boot!
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If you believe you have a "heat soak" problem, then the cables/connection are likely the problem. Bad cables and connections have higher resistance than good wiring; and with more heat they get worse.
There is nothing in an electric starter that prevents operation when hot. A weak starter solenoid? Maybe. But not a starter.
And it is common to find C3 cars without the primary starter ground wire (right side motor mount to frame). This is a classic problem when car has problem starts when hot.
There is nothing in an electric starter that prevents operation when hot. A weak starter solenoid? Maybe. But not a starter.
And it is common to find C3 cars without the primary starter ground wire (right side motor mount to frame). This is a classic problem when car has problem starts when hot.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Oct 6, 2017 at 09:38 AM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
If you believe you have a "heat soak" problem, then the cables/connection are likely the problem. Bad cables and connections have higher resistance than good wiring; and with more heat they get worse.
There is nothing in an electric starter that prevents operation when hot. A weak starter solenoid? Maybe. But not a starter.
And it is common to find C3 cars without the primary starter ground wire (right side motor mount to frame). This is a classic problem when car has problem starts when hot.
There is nothing in an electric starter that prevents operation when hot. A weak starter solenoid? Maybe. But not a starter.
And it is common to find C3 cars without the primary starter ground wire (right side motor mount to frame). This is a classic problem when car has problem starts when hot.
the casing swells from the heat and locks the starter...Can the cables and terminals be bad? yes... but 9 out of 10 times its the starter, or solenoid on top of the starter (whats the difference, there one in the same assembly) being heat soaked.. it swells locked tight.
there are hundreds of cases of this on this forum, do a search on heat soak starters here. same fix all the time.
period
Last edited by pauldana; Oct 6, 2017 at 10:33 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Actually, a 'swelling' case would get larger, as would the bushing bores and bearing bores (dimensions/pieces getting smaller might actually cause binding). Sorry Paul...old wives tale. Bad connections, deteriorating wiring, no main engine ground wire are the real causes of "heat soak" problem. As I mentioned, the starter solenoid winding might also be sensitive to heat... IF there is some wiring problem/deterioration there; but the other items are more likely to occur.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Oct 6, 2017 at 04:02 PM.