Dr. door doesn't open.
#1
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Dr. door doesn't open.
i just got this '71 Vette. the few times that I did open the door to view it inside, it only would open if I pulled on the inside handle. now, after the tow guy clodes the door,i it no longer opens, even from the inside. I've tried to turn the **** and push and nothing. I've even used a crescent wrench to turn the **** to the open position and still nothing. What can I try now? Is it possible to take the door panel off,without messing it up?
#2
Race Director
Do a search on the forum...there is a thread or actually numerous threads that shows the part of your door latch mechanism you can press down on and override it and the door will open so you can take off the door panel and correct this problem.
And for what it is worth...I would not advise getting bigger tools or hammer to make something move,.,.unless you want really break something and cost yourself more money.
DUB
And for what it is worth...I would not advise getting bigger tools or hammer to make something move,.,.unless you want really break something and cost yourself more money.
DUB
#3
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Dub is right. And the first thing to do is get the T-Top off that side and get the window rolled down. Now you have access with both hands, both inside / outside. I would put the key in the lock and fiddle with that while pulling up on the inside handle. Maybe something will let go so you can get the panel off.
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DUB (10-24-2017)
#5
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Dub is right. And the first thing to do is get the T-Top off that side and get the window rolled down. Now you have access with both hands, both inside / outside. I would put the key in the lock and fiddle with that while pulling up on the inside handle. Maybe something will let go so you can get the panel off.
#7
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It's not manual and the switch is missing.it seems that the **** is hard to turn.The problem door is the DR. side. I took the screws off on the passenger side door off, pulled the panel somewhat off the door,but it doesn't pull away from the handle and **** area, and the plastic handle.The **** is off already.
Last edited by sc2dave; 10-23-2017 at 09:50 PM. Reason: added info on pass. door.
#8
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It's not manual and the switch is missing.it seems that the **** is hard to turn.The problem door is the DR. side. I took the screws off on the passenger side door off, pulled the panel somewhat off the door,but it doesn't pull away from the handle and **** area, and the plastic handle.The **** is off already.
Are you handy?
If the window worked before the switch broke:
Disconnect the battery
remove the switch
reconnect the battery
with a jumper send the window down
Two screws hold the handle on the door.
one screw in the rear of the door panel
and one screw at the top front
and one at the top rear.
Pull the inside handle open a little and remove the hidden short screw.
You have the lock k *** off yes.
#9
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Hi,
Here are the locations for the door trim panel fasteners as Pb lists.
In addition the lock **** and door lever needs to be removed to remove the panel.
This door also has the window winder that your's doesn't.
You really need to buy an Assembly Instruction Manual for your 71 if you haven't already done so.
Regards,
Alan
Here are the locations for the door trim panel fasteners as Pb lists.
In addition the lock **** and door lever needs to be removed to remove the panel.
This door also has the window winder that your's doesn't.
You really need to buy an Assembly Instruction Manual for your 71 if you haven't already done so.
Regards,
Alan
#10
Race Director
If the window worked and then the switch busted...you can override the switch by jumping the wires like 'Peterbuilt' stated.
I have had to get into a few where the window would NOT go down and it can be done ...but it will not be easy.
DUB
I have had to get into a few where the window would NOT go down and it can be done ...but it will not be easy.
DUB
#11
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I hooked up a battery, jumped the wires and the solenoid faintly clicked on one of the jumps, don't know if it was for up or down. The window is all the way up.I don't think the window's been lowered in 10-15 years. There is a small space between the rear part of the window and the body. I tried to get a small rod into there in the hopes that I could get into the mechanism but nothing. What else can I do do? Maybe drill out the door cylinder? I tried taking off that panel just rear of the door panel but it seems like it might be glued on and I don't want to break it if I don't have to. HELP!
Last edited by sc2dave; 10-25-2017 at 10:33 PM. Reason: Added info
#13
Burning Brakes
I hooked up a battery, jumped the wires and the solenoid faintly clicked on one of the jumps, don't know if it was for up or down. The window is all the way up.I don't think the window's been lowered in 10-15 years. There is a small space between the rear part of the window and the body. I tried to get a small rod into there in the hopes that I could get into the mechanism but nothing. What else can I do do? Maybe drill out the door cylinder? I tried taking off that panel just rear of the door panel but it seems like it might be glued on and I don't want to break it if I don't have to. HELP!
#14
Racer
If you're getting a 'faint click', are you sure your battery is charged? Unless the window motor or mechanisim is screwed up, a switch jump should bring it down.
#15
Race Director
Messing with your door look cylinder is a waste of time.
A 'Slim Jim' is also a waste of time.
The interior quarter panel trim is pointless to get removed, You will do more damage than good messing with it.
You have a few options.
1.) Get the door panel off. If you tear it up...and possibly may do so if the lower two screws ( one in the front and one in the rear) are still installed.,...and that clip is still attached to the door panel...this area may be damaged when getting the trim panel off.
This will allow you to get a better angle at getting to that portion of the latch that 'Peterbuilt' shows in the photo he posted.
2.) Get the door panel to release across the top and see if you can pull it inwards to the car so you can then use a borescope and custom bent piece of metal rod that will allow you to get to that portion of the latch mechanism.
3.) Using battery charger ...jump the wires at your window switch and get the window to go down.... if it does not...then I would hit the door panel in the middle just above the bottom edge to see if me shocking it while I am giving the wire power will cause the window motor to move.
All else fails you have to make a decision...either damage the door panel and get it off or break the door glass.
I have a borescope so I do not need to break the door glass or damage the door panel too much... and maybe you can find a friend who may have a borescope also (if needed)...and when making the rod that you will need...it needs to be very rigid and not bend when you push down on it and you obviously need to have the T-top out when doing this.
Keep in mind I do this type of work from time to time and my time costs money...so I have to be somewhat careful on how much time I spend in trying to save a part...and if the time I spend is 5 times the cost of the new part that I might need to replace...it makes no sense to save the part....in some cases.
DUB
A 'Slim Jim' is also a waste of time.
The interior quarter panel trim is pointless to get removed, You will do more damage than good messing with it.
You have a few options.
1.) Get the door panel off. If you tear it up...and possibly may do so if the lower two screws ( one in the front and one in the rear) are still installed.,...and that clip is still attached to the door panel...this area may be damaged when getting the trim panel off.
This will allow you to get a better angle at getting to that portion of the latch that 'Peterbuilt' shows in the photo he posted.
2.) Get the door panel to release across the top and see if you can pull it inwards to the car so you can then use a borescope and custom bent piece of metal rod that will allow you to get to that portion of the latch mechanism.
3.) Using battery charger ...jump the wires at your window switch and get the window to go down.... if it does not...then I would hit the door panel in the middle just above the bottom edge to see if me shocking it while I am giving the wire power will cause the window motor to move.
All else fails you have to make a decision...either damage the door panel and get it off or break the door glass.
I have a borescope so I do not need to break the door glass or damage the door panel too much... and maybe you can find a friend who may have a borescope also (if needed)...and when making the rod that you will need...it needs to be very rigid and not bend when you push down on it and you obviously need to have the T-top out when doing this.
Keep in mind I do this type of work from time to time and my time costs money...so I have to be somewhat careful on how much time I spend in trying to save a part...and if the time I spend is 5 times the cost of the new part that I might need to replace...it makes no sense to save the part....in some cases.
DUB
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#17
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Now test the window motor.
Apply a ground to the motor case.
Remove the two wire plug from the motor.
One terminal sends the window up and the other terminal sends it down.
Apply 12 volts to one terminal then apply 12 volts to the other terminal and see if the motor works.
#18
Race Director
#19
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Thread Starter
Good job & well done.
Now test the window motor.
Apply a ground to the motor case.
Remove the two wire plug from the motor.
One terminal sends the window up and the other terminal sends it down.
Apply 12 volts to one terminal then apply 12 volts to the other terminal and see if the motor works.
Now test the window motor.
Apply a ground to the motor case.
Remove the two wire plug from the motor.
One terminal sends the window up and the other terminal sends it down.
Apply 12 volts to one terminal then apply 12 volts to the other terminal and see if the motor works.
#20
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Everything you need to know about your door motor and glass.