Fix or upgrade?
Last edited by Jbassat; Nov 8, 2017 at 04:20 PM.
Welcome!
First post!!!
Do you know if the choke is setting properly?
Are you following the instructions in the Owner's Manual for the procedure to start the engine when it's cold….. it's quite different from starting our contemporary fuel injected engines?
Regards,
Alan
Keep it original?
Send your Qjet to LARS, let him rebuild it and enjoy like it was new (or better).
Modify to FI?
Lots of advantages to going to an FI system but the cost could be much higher.
It could offer better performance and fuel economy.
As far as effecting the value of your car?
In the end you have to have a car you are happy with.
When you sell it, it all depends on what the buyer is looking for.
Keep the Qjet on the shelf and give to the buyer so he can convert it back if he wishes.
Unless you want to spend a lot of money and have to deal with a lot of modifications...I would get the QuardaJet rebuilt correctly.
On some QuadraJets...if the car has set for few days....and you go and take off the air cleaner and manually move your accelerator linkage and DON NOT see fuel squirting in the primaries. Then ..this is telling me that the fuel bled back out of the bowl....and what may need to be done is to turn the engine over for a few seconds (4-6) so the bowl can fill back up with fuel. Then...press on the accelerator pedal and then see if your get a good fuel stream. The try to crank the engine.
When a person actually take the time to do all of this..they will then understand what it takes to get it to start when COLD...because there is no absolute procedure...because...if the car has sat for along time...your accelerator pump in your carb can loose its prime. and may take a few more presses on the accelerator pedal to actually get fuel to squirt out.
I tell my customers to do this. See what it does when it has sat for ONE day.,..then TWO days and so on...so they can see what is happening.
And many of then call be back and were shocked in what they have found and now know that it was the starting / cranking procedure and not the carb or tune-up because they actually saw what was going on....and this is all due to we have been spoiled by fuel injection engines..and have forgotten the 'procedure' to crank a carbureted engine that may have sat for along time..
Also all of this may be totally pointless due to I have no clue if the 'cold start' problem just started to happen ...or if it has been like this for some time.
YES and improper choke setting/adjustment can cause for this EVEN if your have good fuel squirting into the primaries.
And there can also be other things wrong that can cause for the engine to be hard to start when it is cold...but does great when it is cranked at operating temps.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Nov 9, 2017 at 05:58 PM.
Holley - Holley- Holley and never look back. Easy to work on, easy to find parts and they look awsome sitting on a Edelbrock. Just my humble opinion.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Nov 8, 2017 at 06:01 PM.
Taking into account the air cleaner base more than like will NOT fit correctly...the factory bracket for the accelerator cable and transmission kick down cable will not work and need to be modified or something else 'figured out. The vacuum fitting in the top of the intake
in the #8 intake runner might now be effected. The choke may now need to be looked at.
The fuel line going into the front of the Holley...(depending on which one is purchased) will need to be looked at.
The vacuum going to the power brake booster is something else that will come up...which...once again...depends on which Holley is purchased.
And finally...checking to see what the vacuum is on the engine is so the power valve in the Holley is the correct one needed....because you never know.
Lastly...is the actual clearance under the hood (between the hood and air cleaner) when you shut the hood. If the engine has the dual snorkel factory air cleaner...and you loose that and have to put on an open element type...and then have to run a shorter air filter....to me...it makes no sense going through all that...instead of keeping the QuadraJet and having it set-up correctly. BUT...that is my opinion.
DUB
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





was on my old engine, then it had a mild'ish rebuild, new heads, more comp and it still works flawlessly,
just made 410hp/405ft/lbs with timing at 32* with the qjet.
highly recommended , even from the other side of the world....
Taking into account the air cleaner base more than like will NOT fit correctly...the factory bracket for the accelerator cable and transmission kick down cable will not work and need to be modified or something else 'figured out. The vacuum fitting in the top of the intake
in the #8 intake runner might now be effected. The choke may now need to be looked at.
The fuel line going into the front of the Holley...(depending on which one is purchased) will need to be looked at.
The vacuum going to the power brake booster is something else that will come up...which...once again...depends on which Holley is purchased.
And finally...checking to see what the vacuum is on the engine is so the power valve in the Holley is the correct one needed....because you never know.
Lastly...is the actual clearance under the hood (between the hood and air cleaner) when you shut the hood. If the engine has the dual snorkel factory air cleaner...and you loose that and have to put on an open element type...and then have to run a shorter air filter....to me...it makes no sense going through all that...instead of keeping the QuadraJet and having it set-up correctly. BUT...that is my opinion.
DUB
Just an FYI that the Holley 4175 is a direct bolt n replacement for the Qjet:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...waAs0wEALw_wcB
I have this one on my 78 C3 and have since 1985...it is a direct bolt on. I would get the OEM Qjet rebuild/tuned by LARS if it was me to keep it original, if I was doing it today...Love the holley though....
After my recent engine refresh I changed to a 4165 double pumper and had to get an aftermarket drop base because the secondary lever hit the stock breather tube and I didn't want to cut the original.
I love the Holley spreadbore series. Very easy to tune. The issue is that most people do not tune them and just bolt them on. That is a recipe for a bad experience. Holley assumes you are not bolting on to a stock engine and you have made some performance improvements such as a cam and headers, as well as they are tuned a 70 degrees at sea level. That means it will run rich for most people.
The 4165 (at least mine did) comes with a 62 primary jet, an 83 secondary jet, 25 primary squirter, a 37 secondary squirter, and a 6.5 power valve. When I bolted it on the engine ran fine overall but was very rich at idle, very rich at cruise, lean at WOT and there was a slight hesitation at transition from primary to secondary.
I have a stock L48 cam and stock manifolds. After some quality time with an O2 sensor (also love the bolt-on O2 bung from FiTech!) I changed to an 8.5 power valve, 59 primary jet, 89 secondary jet, and a 40 secondary squirter. Also adjusted the idle circuit screws and now all is great with the world.
Friends don't let friends bolt on a Holley with tuning out of the box.
Last edited by Dynra Rockets; Nov 9, 2017 at 09:09 AM.
See:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quadrajet
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...ike-it-should/
I run with no choke and it never has any issue firing up.
After it fires up now the choke comes into play with how it will idle while cold.
The fuel bowl on these carbs are open bowls. That means exposed to the atmosphere. This being the case fuel easily evaporates out of the bowl.
You may have no leaks in your bowl, but after running the car there is significant heat remaining from the engine that facilitates evaporation. Add to that an extended time of no running the fuel continues to evaporate from the bowl.
So next time you go to start your bowl may be low or empty depending on how long it sat.
Crank the engine for 10 seconds and the fuel pump should fill it sufficiently to now pump the throttle say 3 to 5 times and then it should fire up due to accelerator pump introducing fuel from you pumping the throttle.
Choke plays little to no part in this process.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Nov 9, 2017 at 12:00 PM.
[QUOTE=DUB;1595929713]For what it is worth:
Unless you want to spend a lot of money and have to deal with a lot of modifications...I would get the QuardaJet rebuilt correctly.
PLEASE excuse me but I am not attacking your and your ability to start your car....but...a lot of it can depends on HOW you are trying to start the engine after it has set for a few days and it is cold.
On some QuadraJets...if the car has set for few days....and you go and take off the air cleaner and manually move your accelerator linkage and DON NOT see fuel squirting in the primaries. Then ..this is telling me that the fuel bled back out of the bowl....and what may need to be done is to turn the engine over for a few seconds (4-6) so the bowl can fill back up with fuel. Then...press on the accelerator pedal and then see if your get a good fuel stream. The try to crank the engine.
When a person actually take the time to do all of this..they will then understand what it takes to get it to start when COLD...because there is no absolute procedure...because...if the car has sat for along time...your accelerator pump in your carb can loose its prime. and may take a few more presses on the accelerator pedal to actually get fuel to squirt out.
The fuel is being forced into the bowls by the fuel pump..and what I wrote above can help you clarify what you have going on.
I tell my customers to do this. See what it does when it has sat for ONE day.,..then TWO days and so on...so they can see what is happening.
And many of then call be back and were shocked in what they have found and now know that it was the starting / cranking procedure and not the carb or tune-up because they actually saw what was going on....and this is all due to we have been spoiled by fuel injection engines..and have forgotten the 'procedure' to crank a carbureted engine that may have sat for along time..
Also all of this may be totally pointless due to I have no clue if the 'cold start' problem just started to happen ...or if it has been like this for some time.
YES and improper choke setting/adjustment can cause for this EVEN if your have good fuel squirting into the primaries.
And there can also be other things wrong that can cause for the engine to be hard to start when it is cold...but does great when it is cranked at operating temps.
DUB
Fuel injection would be 'cool', but when I looked into it, there was a lot more involved than just bolting it to the intake...not to mention it will probably run you at least a grand or more by the time you have it all completed.
Unless you want to spend a lot of money and have to deal with a lot of modifications...I would get the QuardaJet rebuilt correctly.
PLEASE excuse me but I am not attacking your and your ability to start your car....but...a lot of it can depends on HOW you are trying to start the engine after it has set for a few days and it is cold.
On some QuadraJets...if the car has set for few days....and you go and take off the air cleaner and manually move your accelerator linkage and DON NOT see fuel squirting in the primaries. Then ..this is telling me that the fuel bled back out of the bowl....and what may need to be done is to turn the engine over for a few seconds (4-6) so the bowl can fill back up with fuel. Then...press on the accelerator pedal and then see if your get a good fuel stream. The try to crank the engine.
When a person actually take the time to do all of this..they will then understand what it takes to get it to start when COLD...because there is no absolute procedure...because...if the car has sat for along time...your accelerator pump in your carb can loose its prime. and may take a few more presses on the accelerator pedal to actually get fuel to squirt out.
The fuel is being forced into the bowls by the fuel pump..and what I wrote above can help you clarify what you have going on.
I tell my customers to do this. See what it does when it has sat for ONE day.,..then TWO days and so on...so they can see what is happening.
And many of then call be back and were shocked in what they have found and now know that it was the starting / cranking procedure and not the carb or tune-up because they actually saw what was going on....and this is all due to we have been spoiled by fuel injection engines..and have forgotten the 'procedure' to crank a carbureted engine that may have sat for along time..
Also all of this may be totally pointless due to I have no clue if the 'cold start' problem just started to happen ...or if it has been like this for some time.
YES and improper choke setting/adjustment can cause for this EVEN if your have good fuel squirting into the primaries.
And there can also be other things wrong that can cause for the engine to be hard to start when it is cold...but does great when it is cranked at operating temps.
DUB
I must say I've had mine rebuilt by Lars a couple of years ago with great satisfaction and no problems to date, I feel it was money well spent, and with the reminder of how the old cars start all is good.
I would recommend this. I think many Q-jets get a bad rap, from miss-information, and faulty careless repairs.
PS. If I'm correct I believe the float bowl is also open to the atmosphere which would add to some evaporation over time, but I could be wrong.
Best of luck with your decisions,
Brian 79



Taking into account the air cleaner base more than like will NOT fit correctly...the factory bracket for the accelerator cable and transmission kick down cable will not work and need to be modified or something else 'figured out. The vacuum fitting in the top of the intake
in the #8 intake runner might now be effected. The choke may now need to be looked at.
The fuel line going into the front of the Holley...(depending on which one is purchased) will need to be looked at.
The vacuum going to the power brake booster is something else that will come up...which...once again...depends on which Holley is purchased.
And finally...checking to see what the vacuum is on the engine is so the power valve in the Holley is the correct one needed....because you never know.
Lastly...is the actual clearance under the hood (between the hood and air cleaner) when you shut the hood. If the engine has the dual snorkel factory air cleaner...and you loose that and have to put on an open element type...and then have to run a shorter air filter....to me...it makes no sense going through all that...instead of keeping the QuadraJet and having it set-up correctly. BUT...that is my opinion.
DUB
Just an FYI that the Holley 4175 is a direct bolt n replacement for the Qjet:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...waAs0wEALw_wcB
I have this one on my 78 C3 and have since 1985...it is a direct bolt on. I would get the OEM Qjet rebuild/tuned by LARS if it was me to keep it original, if I was doing it today...Love the holley though....
I put one of these on a guys Corvette a few years ago...but he changed the air cleaner and the hood was not stock.
Are you still able to us the factory air cleaner...under an original hood???
DUB
All I was wanting to point out is that many times...some modifications will need to be made....and a person is not going to take a Holley right out of the box....remove the QuadraJet and bolt on the Holley and ALL is done and perfect. It just does not work that way. Something is going to halt this process....such as accelerator cable mount brackets and so on.
DUB















