Replacing SB mech fuel Pump!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,743
Likes: 37
From: Stockton Ca
Replacing SB mech fuel Pump!
Forum: I posted this a while back and someone mentioned holding back the FP pushrod w/longer bolt.
Then replacing the longer bolt w/correct bolt after the FP is in.
Where and how to do this was not included. lol
If someone could show me where the longer bolt holds back the pushrod.
I could finish this and clean up for the day.
TIA
R
Then replacing the longer bolt w/correct bolt after the FP is in.
Where and how to do this was not included. lol
If someone could show me where the longer bolt holds back the pushrod.
I could finish this and clean up for the day.
TIA
R
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
That was me. In the front of the block, passenger side, should be a bolt. It does go into the oil gallery so it is always there. Remove that short one and replace with same dia, same pitch, just longer bolt. The bolt hole lines up with the F.P. pushrod. Just snug the bolt and it will hold the pushrod while you do your business with the pump.
DO NOT FORGET to remove & replace that bolt or you will destroy the pushrod.
DO NOT FORGET to remove & replace that bolt or you will destroy the pushrod.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 1,559
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
The stock bolt is 3/8 X 16 X 1/2", replace it with a longer bolt then replace the longer bolt with the stock one after applying a little thread sealer.
Align the timing pointer to ZERO so the fuel pump push rod is on the heal of the cam.
Or just grease up the push rod.
Align the timing pointer to ZERO so the fuel pump push rod is on the heal of the cam.
Or just grease up the push rod.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 289
Likes: 32
Replacing A Mechanical Fuel Pump
Forum: I posted this a while back and someone mentioned holding back the FP pushrod w/longer bolt.
Then replacing the longer bolt w/correct bolt after the FP is in.
Where and how to do this was not included. lol
If someone could show me where the longer bolt holds back the pushrod.
I could finish this and clean up for the day.
TIA
R
Then replacing the longer bolt w/correct bolt after the FP is in.
Where and how to do this was not included. lol
If someone could show me where the longer bolt holds back the pushrod.
I could finish this and clean up for the day.
TIA
R
The 265" and 283" engines prior to 1958 used motor mounts that fastened to the front of the block and all of the subsequent small blocks retained those four front motor mount holes as they were sometimes used for boat or other installations. Your 350" has those four holes and the lower/right hole has a short 3/8" X 1/2" bolt with a copper washer screwed into that hole to prevent oil leaking because that hole is drilled all the way thru the block and aimed directly at the fuel pump push rod. So when you want to replace the fuel pump you start by putting the engine on #1 TDC of the compression stroke, remove that copper washer'ed 3/8" bolt and screw a longer 3/8" bolt into the hole until it firmly bottoms out against the push rod. With the bolt screwed firmly against the push rod you can remove the pump and install the new one. After you get the new pump bolted in place remove the longer bolt and then reinstall the shorter bolt with the copper washer.
Last edited by NeverTooOld; Nov 12, 2017 at 04:29 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,273
Likes: 4,366
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi r,
The Chassis Service Manual suggests that IF the pushrod slides down when removing the pump... putting some heavy grease on the rod will hold it up in place while you reinstall the fuel pump.
Regards,
Alan
The Chassis Service Manual suggests that IF the pushrod slides down when removing the pump... putting some heavy grease on the rod will hold it up in place while you reinstall the fuel pump.
Regards,
Alan
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
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From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
After putting grease on it- put it the freezer for 30 minutes or so- then it holds even better.
Richard
Melting Slicks
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From: Wichita Kansas
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Verdad Gallardo
Safety Car
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I guess they gave up on this fancy tool.
From the '66 Service Manual:
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,743
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From: Stockton Ca
Very Helpful!
That was me. In the front of the block, passenger side, should be a bolt. It does go into the oil gallery so it is always there. Remove that short one and replace with same dia, same pitch, just longer bolt. The bolt hole lines up with the F.P. pushrod. Just snug the bolt and it will hold the pushrod while you do your business with the pump.
DO NOT FORGET to remove & replace that bolt or you will destroy the pushrod.
DO NOT FORGET to remove & replace that bolt or you will destroy the pushrod.
Race Director
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From: SW Florida.
Melting Slicks
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From: Wauconda IL
Le Mans Master
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
LOL-- I recall that in the service manual-- tried it too. The pushrod is so slick the fingers couldn't get a bite and hold it. I've tried everything I can think of to hold that rod-- The bolt in the front, big wads of grease, if you can think of it I probably tried it. The grease works as well as anything. And on some cars, getting to that bolt is near the impossible task.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,377
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From: Bedford New York
I just use a long screw driver to hold the rod up, insert the pump and let the pump's lever arm take the place of the screw driver, then bolt it up. Don't forget to install the gasket. Btdt.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,400
Likes: 1,226
From: Tampa Florida
LOL-- I recall that in the service manual-- tried it too. The pushrod is so slick the fingers couldn't get a bite and hold it. I've tried everything I can think of to hold that rod-- The bolt in the front, big wads of grease, if you can think of it I probably tried it. The grease works as well as anything. And on some cars, getting to that bolt is near the impossible task.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
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From: Connecticut, USA
I have used the bolt method for 40 years now, dam I'm getting old. Biggest deal- remember to remove it and replace it with the small one and use sealer on the threads, otherwise you're not going to like that first startup noise.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 251
Likes: 33
When I replaced my fuel pump I used the push button mechanical claw tool as shown in the previous post. Worked very well with no issues, very simple approach with a tool most of us have in our tool box. I hadn’t even seen this approach in my FSM, it listed the heavy grease method.