theandies

IMO it's not a sports car without a manual transmission. Good choice.
I'm actually looking to find an M22 "Rock Crusher" right now just to up the fun factor over my stock Muncie. I want the noise!!!!

69427

Nothing wrong with a Muncie. I had a 5 speed in my '69 for years, and I recently put the original Muncie back in as I've lightened the car up sufficiently that I don't need the extra gearing anymore.

Fredric Björnefält

Do you guys know if I need a new/shorten driveshaft & I guess the m20, 21 & 22 all needs different yoke?
is there any Muncie I should avoid or a preferred one, such as the m22?

theandies

Not sure about your first question but the M21 and M22 both have the close ratio gear set but the M22 are straight cut gears which are stronger but make more noise. The M20 is the "regular" Muncie gear ratios.

Here is a good read:

Muncie 4 speeds

drwet

Generally speaking the M20 had the wide ratio gear set (lower first gear). The M21 had the close ratio. I have owned both. I think the wide ratio is a better gearbox for the street. The close ratio was designed for spirited track driving where it is important to have a variety of gears available at speed, and off the line performance is less critical. I find driving a close ratio trans on the street you are slipping the clutch a little more than you should when taking off from a standing start.

Priya

Right. I have the close ratio with 3.70 rear end gears and I find its not enough gear for smooth starts from a stop - the car frequently shudders when letting out the clutch from a stop and you have to rev the motor and slip the clutch quite a bit to avoid that. Makes the car less pleasant in normal driving.

mrichi

Put a TKO500 in it , it will transform your car

Fredric Björnefält

Fredric Björnefält

Fredric Björnefält

Priya

I think so and I've heard a number of other people say so as well, that the M21 is better only for certain types of racing and the M20 is better for driving on the street.

theandies

Even with my M20 I find myself starting from a stop in 2nd more often than not. I think I'll still put in an M22 just for the cool gearbox noise if nothing else.

jb78L-82

A couple of comments:

The M-21/Super T-10 close ratio had a 2.43 1 st gear like on my 78 L-82 with the 3.70 ratio:

2.43 x 3.70=8.99 or 9:1 which is pretty heft for a total ratio to get the car moving from a standstill. In fact, I never found with my OEM L-82 that I had to slip the clutch to get the car moving and never with the 355 L-82 now. I did notice that the gear ratios are too close between shifts as expected and I would prefer the wider ratios of the M-20 if i could. The M-21 1st gear with a 3.70 rear is almost useless in everyday driving due to the steep gear multiplication.

The wide Ratio M-20 came with a 2.64 first gear which would make 1st even more useless with the L-82 3.70 gears:

2.64X3.70=9.77....

However, the wider ratios I would prefer with the L-82

Stock L-48's came only with the wide ratio M-20 with 2.64 1st gear and either a 3.08 rear or 3.36 gears which is the reason for the 2.64 1st gear:

2.64 x 3.08=8.13 which is less the the 1st gear M-21 and the 3.70 gears above^^^

Or 2.64 x 3.36=8.87...again less than the 2.43 and the 3.70 gears.

The M-21 close ratio 2.43 and 3.70 gears results in MORE torque multiplication than the wide ratio and less numerical gears.

Hope that helps!!!!

Priya

I'm always slipping the clutch with my M21 and 3.70 rear gears to get the car moving from a standstill. If I don't the car shudders off the line. . I'm looking forward to getting rid of it and installing my 5 speed with 3.37 first gear. 3.37 x 3.70=12.47:1

In my 70 Torino I had a 3.89:1 rear gear on a 22 inch tall tire which is the equivalent of a 4.95:1 rear gear with a 28" tall tire as typically found on a C3. With the 2.32:1 first gear on the Ford transmission that works out to a 11.47:1 overall first gear ratio which I found to be really nice for normal driving and an easy start from a stand still.

jb78L-82

To be honest it sounds like something is not quite right with your clutch since my bone stock L-82 M-21 could pull away from a dead stop barely above 600 RPM idle with no hesitation/shudder. Is your engine and cam stock as well as your clutch......????

I have seen non stock L-82's with aftermarket cams not like to pull away at idle without considerable revs....

Priya

I was told when I bought the car the only unoriginal thing on it was the fiberglass rear spring. The owner had a receipt for a rebuilt engine on it that included a factory L82 cam as one of the replacement parts. It even had a working smog pump on it so I believe the L82 was stock as was the clutch. Having said I remember when I had the Torino with 3.00:1 gears and it seemed to pull away from a dead stop smoother than the Corvette does.

lvmyvt76

I agree with keeping a automatic trans(ever been a parade and had to keep the clutch peddle pushed in for 2 hours or more?? But really, an automatic is an easy way to go and still get performance, BUT if you really want a stick, why not go all the way and put in 5 or 6 speed and get the cruising ability also!!!

Fredric Björnefält

Merry Christmas to my Vette friends!

One thing just crossed my mind reading another thread.

... My car is a matching # 70’ B.B LS5,two owners in California, then exported here, to Sweden, by the owner before me in 2004. That’s makes it a total of four owners including me. I got the original recipe from the car dealer and the first buyer. Also between owner nr two and Bengt, the guy who imported the car to Sweden. And etc. My question is -Would it be blasphemy to do this swap ??

Priya

Some people would think so if the original trans is numbers matching, but then you could hold onto the original trans after the swap for if you sold the car down the road and the next owner wanted it. Lots of people do that.

cardo0

Here's a corvette specialty shop in Las Vegas I found on Craigs List.

Extreme Street Performance ESP
6275 Harrison Dr. Suite 20
Las Vegas, NV 89120
phone (702)332-8493

I've been to his shop and he has mostly C3 vettes as customers - his stalls where full of C3's. His CL ad says 74-92 corvettes and has quite a salvage yard for parts only.
https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/pts/...418508272.html


And here's another vette salvage down the road in Victorville, CA. He's on CL a lot with corvette parts 1953-2000. I haven't been there though.
contact name: Joe call: (760) 954-8060
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/...360355636.html


I would contact them both for a complete parts conversion with pedals and crossmember. See what they can do. I think that would be better than buying one part at a time from the vendors.

Hope this helps.