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Posted another thread today about trying to change out a
head lamp, got the passenger low beam working but now it's only about half as bright as the driver side low beam on low and it dims to about 25% on high beams. What's the most likely culprit? fuse? relay? I am a novice at this and although I have heard you guts talk about relays I must admit I don't even know what a relay is or where they/it is located. Appreciate any guidance, this is really aggravating.
The ground connection in the bulb's plug is bad. Take the plug off and clean its connections. It's also very possible the ground terminal on the bulb has come un-soldered.
Hi S3,
The 'relays' that folks mention when talking about the headlights are the 'vacuum' relays that are part of the system that open and close the headlight doors.
There are no 'electrical' relays that are part go the forward lighting system so you don't have them to 'worry' about.
You might want to check for the ground connections of the lighting harness itself.
There's one on the left side where the harness comes through the core-support, and also one on the headlight support bar. (It's missed sometimes.)
Actually there is a 'relay' that See 3 can be more than likely referring to are the relays that people install to take the current load off the headlight switch and actually supply more power to the actual headlight bulb itself.
Thank you guys. Next weekend I plan to address that "up stop" bolt adjustment to see if I can get the headlight bezels out and I will see if I can trace down the head lamp ground wires and clean the connector. I will update both posts when I have more info.
You can also disconnect the actuator rod clevis from the headlight to see if that gives you any room. It's easy to dofrom under the front of the car. Cotter key, 2 springs and pull the pin out.
Good luck.
You can also disconnect the actuator rod clevis from the headlight to see if that gives you any room. It's easy to dofrom under the front of the car. Cotter key, 2 springs and pull the pin out.
Good luck.
By removing the actuator rod from the linkage will do nothing at all to give more movement in the height of the door to get the headlight bezel out. The linkage needs to be changed. BUT it may be needed to remove this pin for other methods to raise the door.
There are 2 ways of getting the headlight door to go higher.
What needs to be done is to get the stop bolt on the side bracket that aids in keeping the door from bouncing either removed completely or turned inwards a lot so the actual door can go higher.
THEN..the three bolts that hold the 'W' bracket that is attache do the actuator support must be loosed so the 'W' bracket can be slid and allow the door to go higher.
IF it is max'd out...and oyu can not get your bezel OUT...Then you have to CAREFULLY remove the large head bolt that takes a 3/4" wrench to remove. This bolt is at the very end of the linkage where it attaches to the headlight door itself. And it can be a PAIN to get out.
There are 2 ways of getting the headlight door to go higher. What needs to be done is to get the stop bolt on the side bracket that aids in keeping the door from bouncing either removed completely or turned inwards a lot so the actual door can go higher. THEN..the three bolts that hold the 'W' bracket that is attache do the actuator support must be loosed so the 'W' bracket can be slid and allow the door to go higher.
DUB
Hopefully adjusting or removing the stop bolt will give me the extra 1/4 inch or so that I need to remove the bezel.
Wouldn't loosening the 3 bolts on the "W" bracket alter the gaps surrounding the headlight door? That has been adjusted perfectly and I don't want to get the spacing out of adjustment needlessly.....
Hopefully adjusting or removing the stop bolt will give me the extra 1/4 inch or so that I need to remove the bezel.
Wouldn't loosening the 3 bolts on the "W" bracket alter the gaps surrounding the headlight door? That has been adjusted perfectly and I don't want to get the spacing out of adjustment needlessly.....
The 'W' bracket does not effect the pivot point where you do adjust the gaps and height for your headlight door.
Moving the 'W' bracket changes the location of the linkage in relation to the pivot points...thus can raise or lower the door.
The 'W' bracket does not effect the pivot point where you do adjust the gaps and height for your headlight door.
Moving the 'W' bracket changes the location of the linkage in relation to the pivot points...thus can raise or lower the door.
DUB
Haven't been under there again to look at the areas we've been discussing, but does the linkage also have some adjustment in it that will raise the door higher?
Haven't been under there again to look at the areas we've been discussing, but does the linkage also have some adjustment in it that will raise the door higher?
NO...the linkage is just a pivot...and it is not adjustable.
BUT..the linkage is attached to the 'W' bracket which IS adjustable.
There is an adjustment bolt on the linkage but it does not effect how HIGH your headlight door can go...it is used to adjust the door to make it flush with the body....and NOT totally rely on the threaded clevis that is on your actuator pod itself which is also adjustable.
Headlight saga continued.....
