The instructions with the ARP flywheel bolts I bought say to use the supplied lubricant on the threads and under the head and torque to 70 ft-lbs. No lockwashers, and no Loctite. Anybody else nervous about these instructions?

 

I never had a problem with mine working loose. I will tell you to adhere to the torque specs they give when using their assembly lube though lol. I have a heli-coil in a crank that I have, do to using the wrong torque spec. The nightmare that was tracking down a heli-coil set and matching drill bit will never allow me to forget the 7/16" fine thread bolt size haha.

 

What bolts did you buy? The pro-series ones I run have the following instructions and include using loctite 242.

Part Number: 200-2802
Application: CHEVY/FORD PRO SERIES 7/16 DIA.

Flywheel Bolt without Washer- Installation
[1] Please check the part-number(s) for your application
against the part-number(s) listed on the instruction
sheet.
[2] DO NOT USE ANY WASHERS with ARP Flywheel
Bolts. They are designed to be installed without
them. Note: ARP will NOT be responsible for any
failures resulting from using a washer with this kit.
[3] Make sure there is an adequate chamfer around the
bolt holes on the flywheel to clear the radius under
the head of the bolt.
[4] Lubricate the threads of the bolt with LOCTITE 242
and the under head of the bolt with ARP ULTRATORQUE
FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
Then install the flywheel onto the crankshaft and
tighten the bolts hand tight.
[5] Using an alternating or criss cross pattern, torque the
bolts to 85 ft lbs using the specified lubricants
in Step 4.
If you have any questions or need additional information
please contact us at (805) 339-2200 or by FAX at (805)
650-0742

 

100%

This process is still clearly in my mind due to I did this not too long ago.

I actually used the Loctite 243 instead of the 242. When I called ARP. The tech guy said that was Loctite 243 was okay to use.

DUB

 

I used arp head bolts on my afr heads back in 2014 and remember the arp instructions are very specific and I followed them to the letter. I reused the OEM flywheel bolts when I reattached the flywheel....a little loctite and torqued to gm spec..all good 4 seasons in....

 

Flywheel or flex plate? Regardless of which one it is just use high strength red LocTite as the lubricant and thread locking.

 

Soooooo you have to use a torch and warp the flywheel next time you remove it?
And maybe damage the rubber rear seal behind it?
LocTite Red requires a torch for fastener removal.
No thanks. Blue is fine, torque to specs.

 

Red on a flywheel or flexplate? Uhhh no thanks I like them to come back apart without a torch or damaging stuff.

 

Call me crazy, but I don't believe GM used any thread locker back in 1977 when my 78 was built....torquing the bolts correctly is really all that is needed except if you use arp bolts....

 

OK. Never mind. I'm an idiot. I was reading the wrong instructions. Thanks for straightening me out.

 

They didn't do a lot of things back then. As a former UAW production line worker, you don't want to know what they didn't do back then.

 

You're right of course. We don't usually put Loctite on our lug nuts either. But I'll sleep a lot better with Loctite on my flywheel bolts.

 

That's funny...

Another thought is if the flywheel bolts come loose you will know it way before stuff starts flying....the racket will be quite noticable...

 

Just did this I don't recall anything about Locktite in ARP instructions. I'll have to recheck this

 

I used ARP thread lube per the machine shop AND ARP.. I also had to cut the bolt heads down about .015 and cut 3 threads off the length for clutch disc clearance on the rear and block clearance on the front..

 

GM didn't put Loctite on flywheel bolts because the GM dealer mechanics would have revolted! Doing warranty work on some of these [weirdly built] vehicles was tough enough. Asking them to put a torch up in that area (with gasoline not too far away) to break Loctite bonding so the bolts would come loose wasn't in the cards.

Since WE are now doing the work...and WE get to decide how well those bolts need to be attached, Loctite it is!!

 

Always use the assembly instructions that come with the product and not what is said in forums. As you can see, some bad advice has already been offered.

 

Corrrect,,,,follow the instructions from ARP if you are using ARP bolts and call it a day.....

 

Is there any way to know ARP bolts are being used if a previous owner installed them? Do they have any markings on them that indicate they are ARP?

 

For a huge company like ARP to recommend using a huge company like LocTite would require to have a contract drawn up for liabilties, shares, royalties, etc. So it doesn't happen unless somebody is greasing the palm of the other.

Why didn't the factory use LocTite? You know, how much a little 4 oz bottle costs. The factory would have to order it in 55 gal drums. Added cost to a competitive price wars. And you never want your product (autos parts) to last forever. Or you won't sell anymore, right?

Now lets think about whats going to happen if you use LocTite without concent from the instruction sheet. Will the threads melt? No. Will the parts become loose? No. Will it void warranty? No. Will it provide a safety margin in the event of fastener backing out? Hell yes! Use the stuff. It works. Its safe. Case closed.