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From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
For a huge company like ARP to recommend using a huge company like LocTite would require to have a contract drawn up for liabilties, shares, royalties, etc. So it doesn't happen unless somebody is greasing the palm of the other.
Why didn't the factory use LocTite? You know, how much a little 4 oz bottle costs. The factory would have to order it in 55 gal drums. Added cost to a competitive price wars. And you never want your product (autos parts) to last forever. Or you won't sell anymore, right?
Now lets think about whats going to happen if you use LocTite without concent from the instruction sheet. Will the threads melt? No. Will the parts become loose? No. Will it void warranty? No. Will it provide a safety margin in the event of fastener backing out? Hell yes! Use the stuff. It works. Its safe. Case closed.
So your recommending red loctite? See what I'm saying about bad info? You didn't specify which thread locker should be used so some newb here may think red is better than blue because it's permanent and what could be better than that?
If ARP recommends a thread locker, use it.
If the GM service manual does not mention anything about using a thread locker, using their grade of bolts, then don't. No doubt it was part of their design consideration but deemed it unnecessary and they are providing the warranty.
So your recommending red loctite? See what I'm saying about bad info? You didn't specify which thread locker should be used so some newb here may think red is better than blue because it's permanent and what could be better than that?
If ARP recommends a thread locker, use it.
If the GM service manual does not mention anything about using a thread locker, using their grade of bolts, then don't. No doubt it was part of their design consideration but deemed it unnecessary and they are providing the warranty.
So your recommending red loctite? See what I'm saying about bad info? You didn't specify which thread locker should be used so some newb here may think red is better than blue because it's permanent and what could be better than that?
If ARP recommends a thread locker, use it.
If the GM service manual does not mention anything about using a thread locker, using their grade of bolts, then don't. No doubt it was part of their design consideration but deemed it unnecessary and they are providing the warranty.
Well if you read post #7 instead of rant & raving, I never said use Red. And the GM service manual is 40 yrs old basic ****. And a newb would have read ALL the posts. You should try it sometime. Move on!
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Dec 22, 2017 at 04:55 PM.
Call me crazy, but I don't believe GM used any thread locker back in 1977 when my 78 was built....torquing the bolts correctly is really all that is needed except if you use arp bolts....
You are not crazy. GM did not use thread locker on these flywheel bolts as we all knwo at this point. And if properly torqued...they do not come out.
I know people can do as they wish...and I DO follow instruction when aftermarket fasteners are being used. such as like these ARP bolts.
I do use Loctite 243 in some areas of the car when I am repairing it...even though it was not used by GM in the area I am using it. But I am selective on where I use it and it is not always my go-to product for every fastener. For example... the three bolts that hold the pulley on the harmonic balancer is an 1992-1996...and I do not use threadlocker on lug nuts.
The instructions with the ARP flywheel bolts I bought say to use the supplied lubricant on the threads and under the head and torque to 70 ft-lbs. No lockwashers, and no Loctite. Anybody else nervous about these instructions?
Originally Posted by drwet
OK. Never mind. I'm an idiot. I was reading the wrong instructions. Thanks for straightening me out.
I found the instructions from the ARP bolts I purchased about 12 years ago. No mention of Loctite, just their Moly Assembly Lube (which is different than the Ultra Torque they use now.
That's a pretty big TQ spec change plus the use of Loctite.
I don't use Loctite on them...never had one come loose....and I work them pretty hard with clutch dumps, wheelies and 8000 RPM.
JIM
I guess that is what I am getting at, if you torque bolts, any bolts correctly, the likelihood that any bolts are going to come loose, is VERY small. As Dub says as well, I have never had any critical bolt come loose if that bolt was torqued correctly......Loctitie to me is cheap insurance for most bolts but certainly NOT necessary.......
The only critical bolts that I have every have come loose on any car are the front caliper bolts for my 2008 Daimler Chrysler 300.....German car design...go figure. I did not use a torque wrench because I could not fit the wrench on the bolts in the wheel well and 2 bolts did loosen.....caliper rattle was the telltale sign that something was amiss........before a disaster could have occurred. Small pipe extension on the rachet has solved the issue for subsequent brake changes....
Last edited by jb78L-82; Dec 23, 2017 at 08:24 AM.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Well if you read post #7 instead of rant & raving, I never said use Red. And the GM service manual is 40 yrs old basic ****. And a newb would have read ALL the posts. You should try it sometime. Move on!