hello! Working on the new to me 82 to try and resolve the rough running issues. The threads here are great and I am going through all of the suggestions others have made. Someone suggested replacing the ECT sensor that is located near the radiator. Is this yellow part in the picture it? If not, does someone have a picture? Thanks, Mark

 

Before you start to jump in and replace parts....or take 'suggestions' from people who have not diagnosed your car in person....I would hold off on that at this particular time.

Do you have a trouble code and the 'check engine' light shining???

Do you have a scanner????

Do you have a factory service manual for your 1982 Corvette. A GM one...NOT a Chilton or Haynes.

YES..the photo you posted IS the coolant temperature sensor for the ECM (computer).

And YES...if you just want to do it...you can get a GM coolant temp sensor and NEW connector and wire it in and see if that helps....BUT...if you have a scanner it will show you data that would let you know if the sensor is sending bad information.

As for you writing a 'rough running' issue. You really need to be VERY SPECIFIC and give us all the information you can. Such as ...is it running bad when it is idling and when it is cold ...or it runs does great when it is cold but the hotter the engine gets the worse the idle gets. Stuff like that.

DUB

 

The OEM sensor had a round single wire connection and that needs to be updated to the oval two-wire connection and sensor. The new sensor comes with all the instructions and parts needed to make the change. I bought a Standard Motor Parts sensor when I made the change 25 years ago.

 

Thanks DUB.

I have had the car 2 weeks, and it has 75k miles. First starting the car would take about 10 seconds for it to turn over. Once it started the car idled very rough, starting at around 1000rpm and after 5 minutes or so the idle goes down to about 700. When I put the car into gear and gently press the accelerator the vehicle would almost stall but then "catch". This would go on for 15-20 minutes. After that it would ride somewhat smoother. If I punched it, the car would take off and run fine. At WOT after the 15-20 minutes it would run fine. This was the first day.

On the second day, I then filled the car up with 91 octane. I added a can of Boostane and a can of Amsoil Pi. After driving about a half tank that same day the car ran much smoother at the end.

Starting the vehicle since then it goes through the same rough idle period and after 15-20 minutes it rides better, but not normal.

So far I have changed the following fluids with Amsoil. Engine, radiator, tranny, power steering.

The first week my mechanic installed a new theromostat, new radiator cap, new heater control valve, new battery, new idle control valves, new fuel filter, new air filters. After these were installed the car still drove the same.

The old battery showed the following codes: 13,14,21,23,24,51,55. We have not checked codes since the new battery has gone in since the mechanic has been working on it and I have not driven it.

This week so far he has replaced the 02sensor, new ignition module, coil, rotor, distributor, plugs, wires.

Tomorrow he is going to check all vacuum hoses for leaks and replace what looks bad. Maybe I should have him change everything since they are probably original.

I was going to also have him change the ect and map sensors, and replace the intake manifold gasket. Also change out the fuel pump with an 85-87 and re-build the throttle bodies.

I am a novice when it comes to cars, but have been learning a great deal reading tons of threads about the 82 cfi over the last couple of months. You guys really know your stuff and I appreciate all of your time answering the threads.

Maybe not everything above needs replacing, but the vehicle is 35 years old, so I figured it could not hurt to bring things up to date.

I did order a shop manual. The mechanic has it and I am not sure which one it is. I have also ordered a book on the cfi engine.

Thanks again. Mark

Your thoughts?

 

 

Here are a couple of photos showing the old and new sensors. My old one had a cracked connector and was a mess. The wires are soldered and shrink wrapped.
Bob

 

Ned to know what are your current trouble codes....if any.

Do you or your tech have access to a scanner. It is needed and some of the data is IMPORTANT so you are not replacing parts that may seen to be good but may be inferior to your facotry parts.

DUB

 

Mechanic has a scanner. We will check Tuesday. Thanks for the help.

 

I will wait to hear form you via a phone call or here on the forum,



DUB