Brake ducts
12-28-2017, 12:16 AM
#21
12-28-2017, 10:41 AM
#22
Team Owner
you can hit a pot hole or a bump and no sway bar loading or on a road racing track hitting the corner apex cement rumble strips. You want to allow wheel travel in a stiffly sprung car. In the rear it keeps you from being tail happy as is the case when using too large of diameter bar without sticky enough rear tires
my front end is totally lightened without all the heavy metal, head lights, vacuum tank, and thinner fiber glass blue front springs are 600# and rear 520# custom mono
12-28-2017, 01:27 PM
#23
Racer
I've been digging through my old photos of my actual duct work. I have been using Photobucket for ever and you can't copy all your pictures off their site. It saves them as an unusable format.
But anyway, on the front I had NACA screened scoops from I think speedway motors, three inch hoses, I ovalled a three inch pipe directing air to the center of the rotor. three inch is twice the air of a 2 inch setup and I had very little in the way of bends, it was kind of rounded curve from the front.
These pictures I had it all apart to regrease the bearings. You have to use high temp bearing grease because so much heat gets transferred to the spindle that the grease melt and comes out
But anyway, on the front I had NACA screened scoops from I think speedway motors, three inch hoses, I ovalled a three inch pipe directing air to the center of the rotor. three inch is twice the air of a 2 inch setup and I had very little in the way of bends, it was kind of rounded curve from the front.
These pictures I had it all apart to regrease the bearings. You have to use high temp bearing grease because so much heat gets transferred to the spindle that the grease melt and comes out
12-28-2017, 01:52 PM
#24
Team Owner
12-29-2017, 10:41 AM
#25
Melting Slicks
are you going to keep racing???? if not then you are going to do a lot of work for not much advantage later, also a lot of cash going down the drain. Our club used to do a lot of autocrossing, then everyone got to doing other things, lost interest and even the club disbanded!!!
Last edited by lvmyvt76; 12-29-2017 at 10:42 AM.
12-29-2017, 11:48 AM
#26
Team Owner
are you going to keep racing???? if not then you are going to do a lot of work for not much advantage later, also a lot of cash going down the drain. Our club used to do a lot of autocrossing, then everyone got to doing other things, lost interest and even the club disbanded!!!
But anyway for a pure street driven Vette it is still a good time. I've only removed three items. The spray fire system, 4 quart accusump because they took up the passenger seat area. I removed the air ducts
12-29-2017, 06:00 PM
#27
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2015
Location: NSW, Australia
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C3 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
Room near the spindles is really tight in my case. I'm running a '96 C4 suspension up front (but with 11.75" rotors so my stock C3 wheels can still fit), and I have yet to figure out how to get a duct hose snaked into there. So the setup I'm using is some aluminum and plastic sheet attached to the lower A-arm, formed in the shape of a spoiler/ramp, to divert undercar air towards the center of the brake rotor. In addition to that I'm running SS shims between the pads and pistons (with Wilwood calipers) to impede heat flow to the caliper, and hi-temp brake fluid. The Pace car front spoiler also helps to pull air from the wheels/rotors due to the side shape of the spoiler, which directs frontal air sideways, causing a low pressure area at the outer sides of the front wheels.
I'm using Wilwood pads (B compound) that work very well, although they are a bit rough on the rotors.
I'm using Wilwood pads (B compound) that work very well, although they are a bit rough on the rotors.
I've been digging through my old photos of my actual duct work. I have been using Photobucket for ever and you can't copy all your pictures off their site. It saves them as an unusable format.
But anyway, on the front I had NACA screened scoops from I think speedway motors, three inch hoses, I ovalled a three inch pipe directing air to the center of the rotor. three inch is twice the air of a 2 inch setup and I had very little in the way of bends, it was kind of rounded curve from the front.
These pictures I had it all apart to regrease the bearings. You have to use high temp bearing grease because so much heat gets transferred to the spindle that the grease melt and comes out
But anyway, on the front I had NACA screened scoops from I think speedway motors, three inch hoses, I ovalled a three inch pipe directing air to the center of the rotor. three inch is twice the air of a 2 inch setup and I had very little in the way of bends, it was kind of rounded curve from the front.
These pictures I had it all apart to regrease the bearings. You have to use high temp bearing grease because so much heat gets transferred to the spindle that the grease melt and comes out
When photobucket started their ransom demands, I was able to download all of my photos by album as .zip files, have they taken that away?
My closest proper circuit is a 2 hour drive away, but a circuit is currently being built only about 10 minutes away, where there is currently a hillclimb track. It's scheduled to open late in 2018, I can't wait!
are you going to keep racing???? if not then you are going to do a lot of work for not much advantage later, also a lot of cash going down the drain. Our club used to do a lot of autocrossing, then everyone got to doing other things, lost interest and even the club disbanded!!!
Last edited by Metalhead140; 12-29-2017 at 11:21 PM.