Lower shock mount nut size.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
I agree ..there is no flat washer....BUT...with some of the new lower shock bolts...they seem to sometimes NOT drill the hole in the correct location for the cotter pin...so when the castle nut is tightened to correct torque specs...the hole for the cotter pin is past the castellation of the nut. Thus..a washer may be required.
And for what this is worth:
IF you removed this lower shock bolt to install the strut rod assembly. And the splines on the shaft of the lower shock bolt that go into the bearing support housing. IF these splines are really worn down and you can easily install the lower shock bolt and it goes in with an easy tap of a hammer. ( Obviously I test this with no strut rod in the way). I would HIGHLY advise you replace it with a new lower shock bolt with GOOD splines on the shaft. This is so the splines can BITE into the casting and hold...much like a wheel stud does.
IF the lower shock bolt has worn out splines and even if the castle nut is tightened to GM specs...it is possible...because I have seen it...that the bouncing of the rear suspension and with the shock absorber attached to the lower shock bolt can twist/rotate.
YES..I am aware that the end of the lower shock bolt has a flat spot on it so it is keyed so it can go in only one way...but the key way is not so precise that it will stop this movement...and actually...the bolt is soft metal and can actually distort...which I have also seen.
DUB
And for what this is worth:
IF you removed this lower shock bolt to install the strut rod assembly. And the splines on the shaft of the lower shock bolt that go into the bearing support housing. IF these splines are really worn down and you can easily install the lower shock bolt and it goes in with an easy tap of a hammer. ( Obviously I test this with no strut rod in the way). I would HIGHLY advise you replace it with a new lower shock bolt with GOOD splines on the shaft. This is so the splines can BITE into the casting and hold...much like a wheel stud does.
IF the lower shock bolt has worn out splines and even if the castle nut is tightened to GM specs...it is possible...because I have seen it...that the bouncing of the rear suspension and with the shock absorber attached to the lower shock bolt can twist/rotate.
YES..I am aware that the end of the lower shock bolt has a flat spot on it so it is keyed so it can go in only one way...but the key way is not so precise that it will stop this movement...and actually...the bolt is soft metal and can actually distort...which I have also seen.
DUB
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 31
Likes: 5
From: Portland, OR
IF you removed this lower shock bolt to install the strut rod assembly. And the splines on the shaft of the lower shock bolt that go into the bearing support housing. IF these splines are really worn down and you can easily install the lower shock bolt and it goes in with an easy tap of a hammer. ( Obviously I test this with no strut rod in the way). I would HIGHLY advise you replace it with a new lower shock bolt with GOOD splines on the shaft. This is so the splines can BITE into the casting and hold...much like a wheel stud does.
IF the lower shock bolt has worn out splines and even if the castle nut is tightened to GM specs...it is possible...because I have seen it...that the bouncing of the rear suspension and with the shock absorber attached to the lower shock bolt can twist/rotate.
DUB
IF the lower shock bolt has worn out splines and even if the castle nut is tightened to GM specs...it is possible...because I have seen it...that the bouncing of the rear suspension and with the shock absorber attached to the lower shock bolt can twist/rotate.
DUB
