Short of upgrading to LED what can be done to make 73 instrument lights brighter?

 

I don't think there's a simple answer to your question. I certainly don't recall anyone ever complaining their lights were too bright.

I've never check with a meter but since the dash lights are controlled through the rheostat in the headlight switch, I wonder how much power the dashlights are actually getting once it goes through the switch. Numerous people (myself included) have done the headlight-relay route to increase the power to the headlights (in my case it was to ease the load on the old harness as well) and I wonder if the dash lights would also benefit from bypassing the headlight switch rheostat....
Mine are all LED at this point so it's not something I can check.

Anyway, I'm sure someone will come along with a real answer
M

 

i replaced the bulbs with new ones, and connected all the grounds. My switch was also worn out. If you rotate your **** to adjust the brightness and it flickers then you might need a new one


you could start there. I think rewiring would be more than a hassle than its worth

 

I agree that this is the way to start.

If you still need brighter, use a 3886X bulb. It is a halogen that has the same BA9s base as the stock 1895 bulb. This is a 6 watt bulb verses 3.78 watts for the stock 1895 bulb, giving more light.

Before doing this however, please consider that the stock light switch dimming rheostat is not exceptionally durable, and any dimming of more than a dozen instrument bulbs will certainly place great stress on this component.

 

I have replaced the headlight switch.

 

and still ,have problems? Check the ground wires for good contact, they sometimes need cleaned where they are screwed to the structures.

 

Looking on the internet I have found a company that has BA9 base retrofit LEDs. They have white 90lm green 46lm. Anyone have any experience with these?

 

There are problems with many of the LED's used for dash bulbs.

1. Many of them have a base diameter is that somewhat smaller than the original base for the stock bulbs...so they wiggle around and don't hold in place well and can flicker or go out;

2. Many are of poor quality and some don't work or fail soon;

3. The LED bulbs will not dim much with the stock switch dimmer and then go out entirely. LED's need a pulse-width-modulator (PWM) power supply so that you can dim them properly.

I've tried them. I didn't care for them and went back to new bulbs.

 

Need a link to where you are finding these bulbs.

I have successfuklly sue LED's form SuperBrtie LEDS...ofr whatever that is worth.

My custoerms do not care of they can dim them....so PWM.

I can say that a person does need to take the time and be careful when installing these bulbs...because '7T1vette' did touch base on how the sockets may be slightly different. So checking ot see how loose the bulb is when installed can make a difference.

Also...the two pins that actually cage the bulb when installed into the socket. I do know that I prefer to use ONLY BRASS sockets on the stock type bulbs because they stay put when installed. The pins on brass sockets a look like small dowels that are very well defined and are not rounded off on the ends like other types of bulbs that have the silver sockets. And the pins on some silver socket type bulbs almost look like they were stamped out and not precise and have rounded ends....which can slip off the retainer in the socket.

SO...carefully look at the pins on your bulbs and see if they are as defined and precise....because....they can pop out of the socket when being installed. And IF that does occur. Then removing the metal portion of the light socket and a slight modification to each and every metal portion of the light socket is need to keep them in place. Do not ask me how I know this. And I am referring to the 1895 style bulbs on a 1968 to 1977 speedo/tach bulbs...and the gauge cluster for a 1968 to 1976 Corvette also.

DUB

 

I have messed with the lights all day. Replaced the sockets , bulbs and worked with the ground and have decided that the end result is 100% better than it was, which I am happy with. Thanks for all the input. Now it is on to why the blower motor doesn’t work. Someday I will be done.

Dub the web site I found was the same you use.

 

LEDs have pure white light, which has a positive effect on the perception of the area they illuminate.