Usual leaks and replacement items + tool
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 587
Likes: 49
From: Belgium
Usual leaks and replacement items + tool
Hi guys!
Im placing an order with summitracing soon. It amazes me how cheap everything there is!
Tools and some parts really are so cheap, it'd be crazy NOT to buy them! Like brake flexi's for 10$ each etc.
But, not having owned a C3 before, I don't know what items are good to replace. I'm belgian, so I'd like to place one big order, as I don't have the 99$ free shipping.
What are the parts you'd certainly replace? What am I forgetting?
+
What brake flaring tool should I buy from summit? I already had a 30$ no name brand one, but its really crap.
I already have :
-Full brake system ( master cylinder,flexi's, rebuilt calipers)
-New rotor and dizzy cap
- driveshaft seal
- Harmonic balancer ( 8")
- advance curve kit
-oil filter
-air filter
-trans filter
- diff gasket
ANything you'd add? Oil and water pump maybe? harmonic balancer oil seal?
cheers!
Im placing an order with summitracing soon. It amazes me how cheap everything there is!
Tools and some parts really are so cheap, it'd be crazy NOT to buy them! Like brake flexi's for 10$ each etc.
But, not having owned a C3 before, I don't know what items are good to replace. I'm belgian, so I'd like to place one big order, as I don't have the 99$ free shipping.
What are the parts you'd certainly replace? What am I forgetting?
+
What brake flaring tool should I buy from summit? I already had a 30$ no name brand one, but its really crap.
I already have :
-Full brake system ( master cylinder,flexi's, rebuilt calipers)
-New rotor and dizzy cap
- driveshaft seal
- Harmonic balancer ( 8")
- advance curve kit
-oil filter
-air filter
-trans filter
- diff gasket
ANything you'd add? Oil and water pump maybe? harmonic balancer oil seal?
cheers!
Last edited by Dusky; Jan 30, 2018 at 01:34 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,134
Likes: 4,206
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi D,
It's a bit difficult to make a meaningful reply to your questions without knowing at least a bit about your car.
What year, engine, transmission, condition, stock/modified, for instance.
Is this car new to you?
Do you know what service and maintenance has been done to it recently and in the recent past?
So, it bit of information will help people give you their thoughts!
Regards,
Alan
It's a bit difficult to make a meaningful reply to your questions without knowing at least a bit about your car.
What year, engine, transmission, condition, stock/modified, for instance.
Is this car new to you?
Do you know what service and maintenance has been done to it recently and in the recent past?
So, it bit of information will help people give you their thoughts!
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Jan 30, 2018 at 03:03 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 587
Likes: 49
From: Belgium
Hi D,
It's a bit difficult to make a meaningful reply to your questions without knowing at least a bit about your car.
What year, engine, transmission, condition, stock/modified,for instance.
Is this car new to you?
Do you know what service and maintenance has been done to it recently and in the recent past?
So, it bit of information will help people give you their thoughts!
Regards,
Alan
It's a bit difficult to make a meaningful reply to your questions without knowing at least a bit about your car.
What year, engine, transmission, condition, stock/modified,for instance.
Is this car new to you?
Do you know what service and maintenance has been done to it recently and in the recent past?
So, it bit of information will help people give you their thoughts!
Regards,
Alan
Oh yeah, I forgot that
It's a 1979 coupe, automatic transmission.
It got ( or recieved?) a new goodwrench 350 in 2005, the engine only has 34000 miles acccording to the paperwork that came with the car.
It has a true dual exhaust, and some rubber bushings are new already ( tie bars and sway bars).
It had new power steering lines in 2005 too, and new rotors,brake pads etc. I suspect the car hasn't run since 2007, after they discovered the BADLY rusted birdcage. ( rocker channel literally breaking in 2...)
Luckily the birdcage is repaired already
cheers
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Just a word on the flaring tools-- Summit has both a 45* double flare tool and a 37* AN (or JIC) if you prefer) I have the 37* tool from them and it works pretty well. There are others out there, but not as cheap. AS with any flare tool, it takes a little practice to get it right.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 104
From: NC
I'd have to look at brands of flare tools I have that arw good, one is hydraulic unit and believe the other is Napa brand(believe it is KD brand).
Don't forget a good bender if doing alot.
Only you could know what else little things to order such as seals, tuneup stuff, filters and the like.
Not sure who rebuilds their calipers but I'd use caution myself as I found out the hard way many years ago not all are equal. Considering the shipping costs would kill you if something was wrong.
You could probably find better tools cheaper on Ebay as lot of sellers ship overseas now.
Don't forget a good bender if doing alot.
Only you could know what else little things to order such as seals, tuneup stuff, filters and the like.
Not sure who rebuilds their calipers but I'd use caution myself as I found out the hard way many years ago not all are equal. Considering the shipping costs would kill you if something was wrong.
You could probably find better tools cheaper on Ebay as lot of sellers ship overseas now.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
I know this may be a bit more than you want to invest.... but this is what I have at my shop.
https://www.mpbrakes.com/accessories...8F34FBF49B9855
I can say ...that depending on the type of line...stainless steel or not. And the size of that line. this tool works very well BUT when doing double flare on a 3/16" stainless steel line it is kinda hard to do due to the line is so hard and does not like to bend like the normal lines do.
I get my brake calipers through Lone Start Caliper. I only use the lipped seal design...but I also make sure all bearings and rotor run-outs are well within specs and I index the rotors if needed.
DUB
https://www.mpbrakes.com/accessories...8F34FBF49B9855
I can say ...that depending on the type of line...stainless steel or not. And the size of that line. this tool works very well BUT when doing double flare on a 3/16" stainless steel line it is kinda hard to do due to the line is so hard and does not like to bend like the normal lines do.
I get my brake calipers through Lone Start Caliper. I only use the lipped seal design...but I also make sure all bearings and rotor run-outs are well within specs and I index the rotors if needed.
DUB
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 223
Likes: 20
From: jim thorpe pa
brake lines?
buy the whole pre bent kit, either steel or SS. the price is reasonable, saves time and frustration. i opted for steel, rarely is it in rain, never going to drive in salt. i went with rubber flex lines, should have bought the SS hoses
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Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,839
Likes: 4,455
From: Virginia
If you are doing a tuneup (I see you have new dist cap and rotor), I'd be sure to add:
Distributor shims
Plug wires
Spark plugs
***Adjustable vacuum advance
Timing light (you can probably get this locally)
Handheld vacuum pump (don't get a plastic one, get a Mityvac 8500 or better, http://amzn.to/2BGgN1V )
Assorted vacuum hoses
Assorted vacuum port plugs
I needed a whole new distributor on my '79, but I still used the shims to limit endplay, and everything else on this list. The adjustable, or correctly set OEM, vacuum advance is critical if you follow Lars' method for timing.
Perhaps an electronic choke, too?
Distributor shims
Plug wires
Spark plugs
***Adjustable vacuum advance
Timing light (you can probably get this locally)
Handheld vacuum pump (don't get a plastic one, get a Mityvac 8500 or better, http://amzn.to/2BGgN1V )
Assorted vacuum hoses
Assorted vacuum port plugs
I needed a whole new distributor on my '79, but I still used the shims to limit endplay, and everything else on this list. The adjustable, or correctly set OEM, vacuum advance is critical if you follow Lars' method for timing.
Perhaps an electronic choke, too?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 587
Likes: 49
From: Belgium
Yeah, I was wondering if there are a lot of 'made in china' parts on that site. Don't know how the market is in the USA. Over here in Europe we're flooded with inferior parts. Especialy rubber items. Bushes disintegrating within 6 months isn't rare..And having to do the same job 3 times to keep replacing bad parts neither.
Don't I need a 45° tool for a corvette? Just checking.
I would buy the lines pre-bent, but I'm a tad scared to do that after I did the same for my mustang and most lines came pretty kinked ( I blame UPS lol).
Will add the vacuum stuff Forgot to add that I already have plugs and wires, nice shiny red ones.. 
An electronic choke is a very good idea! If I recall right I have an exhaust heated inlet manifold too ( exhaust crossover ports in the goodwrench heads iirc).
Is it worth blocking these? Car won't be driven in the winter.
Thanks for the help
Don't I need a 45° tool for a corvette? Just checking.
I would buy the lines pre-bent, but I'm a tad scared to do that after I did the same for my mustang and most lines came pretty kinked ( I blame UPS lol).
Will add the vacuum stuff
Forgot to add that I already have plugs and wires, nice shiny red ones.. An electronic choke is a very good idea! If I recall right I have an exhaust heated inlet manifold too ( exhaust crossover ports in the goodwrench heads iirc).
Is it worth blocking these? Car won't be driven in the winter.
Thanks for the help
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,839
Likes: 4,455
From: Virginia
I think you'd have to remove the intake to block the exhaust crossover. I wouldn't bother with that. I would, however, make sure that the heat riser valve is working properly, or always open, if it hasn't been removed already. That is the valve that forces exhaust gas from the passenger side through the intake (warming the carb) and out the driver side exhaust.
Also, I don't think Summit sells EGR block-off plates, but Jegs does. Jegs also sells the cheapest, Made in USA, genuine GM part you will ever find for a Corvette, a cast aluminum water neck for $4.30, GM PN 10108470.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...08470/10002/-1
I have one on each of my cars, sitting on top of a $30- thermostat, and a $15- gasket, so there's still plenty of ways to spend money here.
Also, I don't think Summit sells EGR block-off plates, but Jegs does. Jegs also sells the cheapest, Made in USA, genuine GM part you will ever find for a Corvette, a cast aluminum water neck for $4.30, GM PN 10108470.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...08470/10002/-1
I have one on each of my cars, sitting on top of a $30- thermostat, and a $15- gasket, so there's still plenty of ways to spend money here.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 119
From: Springfield Missouri
why do you need a flaring tool??? are you cutting brake lines for some reason?? I'm coming over to Belgium in less than 60 days, do you need help??
don't hardly need a choke if not driven in the winter, just will have to play with the gas pedal a little while warming up.
as for the pre=formed brake lines, I did mine that way, put shipping might worse coming to you than it was to me. I bought the stainless(don't know why) lines, then just easily straightened out to go under the car with some effort, while it was jack stands.
don't hardly need a choke if not driven in the winter, just will have to play with the gas pedal a little while warming up.
as for the pre=formed brake lines, I did mine that way, put shipping might worse coming to you than it was to me. I bought the stainless(don't know why) lines, then just easily straightened out to go under the car with some effort, while it was jack stands.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 587
Likes: 49
From: Belgium
Can you put around 40 items in your luggage? OR better, a spare corvette?? 😅
Changing all brake lines, they look quite good,but after seeing the rust on the birdcage I dont trust Them. Might Just bite the bullet and get SS lines and hope they arrive in good condition 😶
Changing all brake lines, they look quite good,but after seeing the rust on the birdcage I dont trust Them. Might Just bite the bullet and get SS lines and hope they arrive in good condition 😶
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 119
From: Springfield Missouri
I can if you want to pay the fare for it. The stainless need to be tightened up real tight when installing them, I probably would of gone back to original, if I was to do it allover again. Are yours damaged?? Why are you replacing them??
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
The only time I replace them is if the car is being restored...or they are damaged and requiring it.
And as for using stainless steel versus the factory style lines. I can say that the stainless steel ones are much harder and thus...you might find that they are bit more of a hassle to get tight enough to not leak.
I get the brake lines from In-line tubing.
https://www.inlinetube.com/brake-fuel-lines
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Jan 31, 2018 at 06:56 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 587
Likes: 49
From: Belgium
The brake lines look a bit rusted too, I'll get pics once the car is back at my place. ( Still at my EX fiancé's place....)
I always thought the advance kits were a very good thing to do? ( Reading lars papers etc)
Also, while you're all here : Can I buy the timing cover kits,gaskets,... for a standard L48 engine? As I heard the goodwrench crates are LM1, and don't know if there is any difference between them.
cheers
I always thought the advance kits were a very good thing to do? ( Reading lars papers etc)
Also, while you're all here : Can I buy the timing cover kits,gaskets,... for a standard L48 engine? As I heard the goodwrench crates are LM1, and don't know if there is any difference between them.
cheers
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,839
Likes: 4,455
From: Virginia
You can buy just the springs, but even if you don't change anything, you should check that the full mechanical advance is all-in at 3000 rpm, then set the timing based on that. It really does make a difference.
My distributor was worn, mechanical advance was sticky, so it was easier to swap it for a ZZ4 take-off from eBay. Even then I changed the springs to get the mechanical advance set, shimmed it to get rid of endplay, and added adjustable vacuum advance, all according to the Lars timing method.
On my car, none of that was a waste of time. It resulted in a very noticable improvement across the board.
My distributor was worn, mechanical advance was sticky, so it was easier to swap it for a ZZ4 take-off from eBay. Even then I changed the springs to get the mechanical advance set, shimmed it to get rid of endplay, and added adjustable vacuum advance, all according to the Lars timing method.
On my car, none of that was a waste of time. It resulted in a very noticable improvement across the board.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 587
Likes: 49
From: Belgium
Have been browsing a bit more ( damn, saw a clip of a manual valve body in a th350. That was Nice!( Not that Id consider it for the road))
anyway, does anyone have a list of the approx lenghts and fittings needed for the brake lines? At these low proces it would be silly to buy the tool :https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all48068 . Would measure Them myself, but still dont have the car at my place....women huh..
Cheers
anyway, does anyone have a list of the approx lenghts and fittings needed for the brake lines? At these low proces it would be silly to buy the tool :https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all48068 . Would measure Them myself, but still dont have the car at my place....women huh..
Cheers