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Well my 2 bolt is now a 4 bolt main. Next stop line hone. That was a fun project and fairly easy but my caps were almost a perfect fit so that helped tremendously.
The upper untapped hole doesn't appear to be on the same axis as the original threaded hole. It looks shifted right vs the original hole. Is this just an optical illusion or is there a purpose for that?
The upper untapped hole doesn't appear to be on the same axis as the original threaded hole. It looks shifted right vs the original hole. Is this just an optical illusion or is there a purpose for that?
very well could be off center, I didn’t locate center of block casting, I bolted the cap on with the center bolts and aligned to the bottom then tightened and then found center of outside hole of cap and drilled in that spot. Seems gm’s tolerance were pretty dang loose when it came to hole placement.
When the center 3 caps are replaced with billet caps the boring bar is registered off the original front and rear cap, not sure how you would bore that will all the caps replaced. After thinking about it, you could replace the center 3 then located off them after they were cut, then cut the front cap, then located off number 1 and 4 and cut the rear cap and then of course line honed it
Last edited by Vortecpro; Feb 26, 2018 at 08:27 AM.
When the center 3 caps are replaced with billet caps the boring bar is registered off the original front and rear cap, not sure how you would bore that will all the caps replaced. After thinking about it, you could replace the center 3 then located off them after they were cut, then cut the front cap, then located off number 1 and 4 and cut the rear cap and then of course line honed it
When the center 3 caps are replaced with billet caps the boring bar is registered off the original front and rear cap, not sure how you would bore that will all the caps replaced. After thinking about it, you could replace the center 3 then located off them after they were cut, then cut the front cap, then located off number 1 and 4 and cut the rear cap and then of course line honed it
I have the same set up and thats what I would do. I actually have some junk caps that have been cut down and narrowed for line boring I use them on 1 & 4 when cutting the 3 center caps in and front and rear 2 & 4 journals seems to work fine. Always finish with an align hone. The PLB-100
Last edited by BROKEN RODS; Feb 26, 2018 at 11:24 AM.
When the center 3 caps are replaced with billet caps the boring bar is registered off the original front and rear cap, not sure how you would bore that will all the caps replaced. After thinking about it, you could replace the center 3 then located off them after they were cut, then cut the front cap, then located off number 1 and 4 and cut the rear cap and then of course line honed it
thats a good point, I wonder if it would help for me to take cap #1 and #5 to the machine shop so they can bolt on and indicate of those and bore the center 3 and then take them off and indicate of #2 #3 and #4 to do #1 and 5?
I have a few 4 bolt cap sets. The last conversion was cake. The one before that had my machinist cussing me out. Its amazing how much they vary...
i got it to the machine shop and he said it looked very good but yes i think it’s all in the caps. If you have the right equipment and basic knowledge then it’s easy but if the caps aren’t dang close to your last ones you just opened a can o worms
I picked up a nice std bore 4 bolt main block for $250.00 Planning a 7200 rpm 331Ci build for a 64 Chevy II i am looking at. Local guy here has close to 25 four bolt main block that he has collected
I picked up a nice std bore 4 bolt main block for $250.00 Planning a 7200 rpm 331Ci build for a 64 Chevy II i am looking at. Local guy here has close to 25 four bolt main block that he has collected
funny how some people come about ending up with such cool things
I have a great engine builder with a killer machine shop. The sad thing is, he has no apprentice to learn and take over the shop when he decides to hang it up.