but wont you contaminate the system by using a ford part in a chevy?????????

 

It's the only part of a Rustang that doesn't rust.

 

I've seen various 80's and 90's factory installed small blocks without springs in the lower hose so over the years someone figured out a way to keep that lower hose from collapsing without a spring.

It could make sense that the factory correct hose has the spring since that hose is presumably manufactured just like the factory original hose was. A generic replacement could have been manufactured differently so it supports itself.

 

The only comment I will make is this:

GM NEVER put an unnecessary part in any car they ever made. Unnecessary parts cost money. They don't like spending excess funds to build cars. I'll guarantee you that if that spring was not necessary, they would not have installed it.

But.... do what you want...

P.S. I already mentioned corrugated hoses which do not require the spring. Install a corrugated hose, if you want. Geez, the spring only costs a few bucks.

 

You certainly have a lot more faith in the aftermarket parts manufacturers than I do. I doubt very much if most of them put that much thought into their parts, if the quality of parts I am getting these days is any indication.

 

Many of the Corvette parts suppliers sell the hose AND sell the spring, SEPARATELY!!! I assume that they ASSUME that the owner already has the spring and doesn't need another--so they don't sell them as a set.

But, they DO NOT put a note by the hose listing mentioning that "This hose requires an anti-collapse spring #xxxx."

Many folks order the hose without the spring and have overheating troubles on the highway, thereafter. (Probably one per month on this Forum.)

 

What if I don't have an overheating problem without a spring? What does that mean?

 

thinking about it, waste of time,
seem to remember the bipass hose cars had springs.
a spring is a safe mod and can't hurt.

 

You drive like a girl?

 

Can you post some links to confirmed examples of this exact set of events happening?

 

Or you live up North....

If you use a a spring and don't need it -won't hurt near as bad as not having a spring and needing one.

The same can be said about Guns too.....

Now it is a Mopar....I would think it has a new hose on it...

Watch at 2:40

 

Sorry, I couldn't help myself. The way you phrased it was too easy an opening.

 

I quoted a comment saying that there are constant posts here where the lower hose gets replaced and then the hose collapses, so I asked for examples. But, as per usual that part I was responding to was ignored and something completely different was linked so I'll spell it out more clearly.

Can you post some links to confirmed examples, on this forum in the C3 section, of the exact set of events happening as quoted above?

 

LOL, sucking flat for a second then popping right back into shape while the rpm's continue to climb is disproving arguments that say more rpm causes more suction and more collapse.

 

It means that your lower rad hose is rigid enough to not prevent the coolant from flowing enough coolant to still cool the engine. Pressure causes the rad hose to collapse i.e. atmospheric pressure is higher than the suction pressure IF the hose is not rigid enough to resist collapse. Not rigid enough, put a spring inside. Rigid enough - no spring required whether or not its a straight or corrugated hose. Try this. With the engine off and cooled down, try to collapse the hose with your hand. If it collapses fairly easy its not rigid enough.

Or, you drive like a girl!

 

When I started to read the replies to the article I thought I had somehow jumped back into the C3 tech section.

It's amazing how people with little to no education in the study of thermodynamics try to put down an aeronautical engineer by telling him he has no clue. Similar situation in these forums, sadly. Hence, the loss of some very knowledgeable contributors over the years. Luckily, some others have stuck around.

 

Just my .02

As a person once said out here "If there isn't a GM part number for it than it doesn't exist".
My contention is that GM per se did not mandate the spring or you would see it listed in the parts book and AIM as a separate item.
GM contracted an outside vendor to supply radiator hoses and probably just specified that it couldn't collapse under vacuum-
How that vendor chose to handle that detail (either with a spring or by hose design) was up to the vendor.
I'm pretty sure GM didn't specifically mandate that "all lower radiator hoses must have a spring".

With that said, the spring is cheap insurance and there is no harm in using them.
Personally, I never ran into the issue and haven't used springs in years.
It all depends on what and how you drive I guess.
Elm

 

The AIM listed a hose with a spring. No need to have a number for a sub assembly.

However, the spring itself at the counter is part # 3917227

 

Nobody still is answering my question. I have driven my 77 for 10,000 miles now since restored, with a new lower radiator hose,....WITHOUT a spring. The car has NEVER even approached being overheated. I have driven the car on highways at sustained speeds of 65 mph on way to Carlisle for hours. I have driven on all the local roads from 0 mph to 55 mph. I have driven it to 110 mph hour on a few occasions, but for a very short acceleration to 110 and back off. When I drive, I have no reason to sustain 6000 RPM. If that makes me a girl, then I will start buying dresses.

So whatever the childish remarks mean about driving like a girl, and your fun times for saying it, the driving I do, the temp has NEVER even climbed above normal. I do have a Dewitts aluminum radiator which may help.

Bottom line....does not sound like there is any negative impact to me not having a spring in the hose.

Now, if the hose gets weaker with age, maybe it will become a problem, and then I can deal with it. I have no objection to putting in a spring, but my reality tells me I don't need it. And I see no reason to go to the trouble of draining the cooling system and fighting to remove a hose and put a spring in when my car is just fine without it.

You all do what you want, even if there is no problem. Sounds to me like a solution looking for a problem.

 

Well, for the first myth he claim the thermostat is needed so the coolant flows slowly enough through the rad that it will cool. Further on he then more or less repeats the same thing saying the fans have to run slow enough to allow the air time to cool the fins. So why should anyone give him credibility when posting stupidity like that?