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I have had my car about 2 1/2 years. I have slowly gotten most everything working that I would like to work except for the cruise control. Initially the cruise would not hold a set speed. It would engage but the throttle went faster and faster. I now have a new transducer new switch at brake pedal and I think the vacuum diaphragm is pliable and seems to operate ok.
The car never had a vacuum valve(also located in the brake pedal). Now the cruise doesn't engage at all. The valve is listed in the Willcox instructions for trouble shooting cruise issues but I don't see where any one makes a repro. Is the valve a must for the cruise to operate?
Get a wiring diagram and check for power at the transducer. IIRC power is supplied to the transducer though the switch on the brake pedal. If that switch is out of adjustment, there won't be power to the transducer. As I recall, the switch is designed to disengage the cruise by cutting power to the transducer when you step on the brakes, and to release the vacuum at the same time. When I put the TKO 600 in my '79 I installed a second switch on the clutch pedal and my cruise wouldn't work. Turned out the clutch wasn't returning high enough to engage the switch and there was no power to the cruise.
Is it required for the cruise control to operate safely?
Yes.
You can temporarily disable the brake vacuum switch for testing. Look in the vacuum line leading to the servo that drives the throttle. Look for a "T" with the branch leading through the firewall. Disconnect the line and plug the fitting.
IMPORTANT! The cruise control has a fail safe design and disengages electrically and/or via vacuum. If it fails to cancel when testing with the vacuum portion disabled, just turn off the ignition for a moment.
Is it required for the cruise control to operate safely?
Yes.
You can temporarily disable the brake vacuum switch for testing. Look in the vacuum line leading to the servo that drives the throttle. Look for a "T" with the branch leading through the firewall. Disconnect the line and plug the fitting.
IMPORTANT! The cruise control has a fail safe design and disengages electrically and/or via vacuum. If it fails to cancel when testing with the vacuum portion disabled, just turn off the ignition for a moment.
I would think to test a "SYSTEM", you would want to test the entire "SYSTEM."
I have had my car about 2 1/2 years. I have slowly gotten most everything working that I would like to work except for the cruise control. Initially the cruise would not hold a set speed. It would engage but the throttle went faster and faster. I now have a new transducer new switch at brake pedal and I think the vacuum diaphragm is pliable and seems to operate ok.
The car never had a vacuum valve(also located in the brake pedal). Now the cruise doesn't engage at all. The valve is listed in the Willcox instructions for trouble shooting cruise issues but I don't see where any one makes a repro. Is the valve a must for the cruise to operate?
These things are not the best of GM. I have maybe 6 here that I went thru including two "rebuilt" Cardone units. Every one had an issue.
I finally paid thru the nose, and got a NOS GM unit. Works perfect, but now my speedo is jumpy.
There is a set of gears in there that strip out where the cable shafts are driven. POS design. Good luck.
If you use a test light to see if the switch (at break pedal) is getting power, when would the switch get power? When you depress the button on the turn signal lever or when the brake is applied???
If the switch isn't positioned correctly the brake light would not function. Correct???
Does the transducer receive power all the time or when the cruise button is depressed.?
The white wire at the transducer should get +12V only when the button is pushed and the brake is NOT pressed. Pressing the brake should kill the power. The switch for this is another set of contacts in the brake light switch; its' wires are pink (12V ignition power) and red (switched power).
The brown wire at the transducer has an integral section of 40 ohm "resistance wire" and will have a small voltage whenever the ignition is on and brake is NOT pressed. The purpose of this is to give just enough voltage to KEEP the solenoid closed after a momentary pulse from pushing the switch has done the job of actually closing the contacts.
In '79 the only other wire at the transducer is a ground that connects in the fender well.
Pressing the brake switch cuts off ALL power to the cruise system which via the solenoid in the transducer cuts off the supply of vacuum to the servo. A separate vacuum switch on the brake pedal opens the servo to the atmosphere which also disengages the cruise.
Thank you SBMIKE for taking the time to give me such detailed instructions. Now I can track down my problem.
BTW, do you know if anyone makes the vac. valve that attaches to the brake pedal? I never had one.
I'm looking and looking but have struck out with the "vacuum release valve assembly". I find it mentioned in the assembly manual but no part number is given
The ONLY place I show availability is in Doc Rebuild's print catalog from 2008. Here's his website: www.docrebuild.com
Be VERY cool when calling/contacting. Great products and an interesting character. DO NOT disagree with him in any way! DO NOT mention "other" part suppliers!
Presuming it's sold out (I bet it is) try salvage. I was used in millions of GM cars from the late 60s through early/mid 80s.
Sorry to revive this thread, however I have just located a vacuum valve that attaches to brake pedal. Releases vacuum to cruise. After further digging into this, is it possible this valve was required ONLY on cars with manual trannys
??????/
Sorry to revive this thread, however I have just located a vacuum valve that attaches to brake pedal. Releases vacuum to cruise. After further digging into this, is it possible this valve was required ONLY on cars with manual trannys
??????/
No. They all have them. Now could the part numbers be different? I don't know.
Sorry to revive this thread, however I have just located a vacuum valve that attaches to brake pedal. Releases vacuum to cruise. After further digging into this, is it possible this valve was required ONLY on cars with manual trannys
??????/
The cruise control was only an option on cars with an auto transmission.
If your car has a manual transmission, then someone added the cruise control, and did not install the valve on the brake pedal.
Sounds to me like you need to adjust the brake and clutch pedal switches properly so the system will work. All those switches do is pass 12vdc power to operate the system until either the clutch or brake pedals are depressed. Activating either pedal cuts power to the system and cruise is dropped. The switches are easily adjustable (turned IN or OUT via the threaded body).
Sounds to me like you need to adjust the brake and clutch pedal switches properly so the system will work. All those switches do is pass 12vdc power to operate the system until either the clutch or brake pedals are depressed. Activating either pedal cuts power to the system and cruise is dropped. The switches are easily adjustable (turned IN or OUT via the threaded body).
By '79 both of these switches are self-adjusting. The clips that hold them in the proper position however can get weak and the switch will essentially fall out.
my car is an auto. It seems to me that the vacuum valve is redundant. There is already a switch that attaches to the brake pedal that goes out to the transducer. This elec. switch is suppose to shut down the cruise control when pedal is pushed down. I can't locate an additional vacuum line under the dash that the valve would attach to.
I'm going to the regional NCRS meet here in town tomorrow. Maybe someone with a 79 will let me look under the dash.
Thanks for all the replies. I am some what mechanically disadvantaged.