how hard is it to add factory power steering to a 68-73? components needed other than steering box, brackets, pump. same question for power brakes? what besides a booster, prop vlv?

 

Pretty easy swaps if your mechanically inclined.

PS swap used the same steering box but you'll need the pump, ram, brackets, hoses, control valve and a PS specific center link.

PB I think just requires the booster and PB Master Cylinder.

 

add a correct pitman arm to the above

 

And ALSO make sure you move your OUTER tie rods ends at the spindles to the INNER holes. IF you leave your tie rods ends in the outer holes...you steering will be OFF THE CHARTS SENSITIVE and not be able to be driven very well at all. SO...the car will need an alignment/toe set.

I do not believe you need to replace the proportioning valve. BUT the brake lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve will need to be tweaked a bit and possibly may need to be replaced due to not needing to be as long as they are now.

DUB

 

Can I have all your manual brake parts?

 

The P.S. project may not be do-able. Like Dub said the spindle arm on SOME yrs had two holes. One for PS leverage and one for non-PS leverage. I do not know what yrs had that optional hole for the tie-rods.

 

My 66 didnt have ps or pb daily driver early 90s i never missed it,

If my 69 i have now didnt have ps pb i wouldnt consider adding it,
Imho stock vette ps is cantankerous and aching to leak,

If whats on my 69 project leaks off it goes and ill hit up howard for the standard steering parts

 

He will have to drill four new holes in the firewall to mount the brake booster, then figure out how to get his arm under the dash to attach the nuts / bolts.
He will need new brakelines at the MC because the old ones will not line up with the booster in place.
He will have to fabricate new lines from the MC to a new Proportioning Valve and mount that to the frame.
May have to change out the brake pedal rod for a different length.

Not easy. All this, so his car will drip on the garage floor like thousands of others.

 

From what I recall, no holes need to be drilled as it uses the existing 4 bolts that mount the pedal box to the firewall?
I could be mistaken.....

 

As far a converting from manuel to power steering on a C3 my suggestion would be; pump and brackets and the Borgeson power steering conversion. Better steering, not prone to leaking and probably less expensive than buying all those OEM steering parts. You use your existing pitman arm and drag link. Both my 6t8 and 69 have both holes for the tie rods. The only problem with the Borg system is that you cannot put the chrome shield on the 1 and 3 cylinders. T

 

Power brakes. You are relocating front lines. Replace, dont rebend them.

 

If the brake lines that go the the proportioning valve are in good condition and not rusted or weak due to rust scale. They can be easily massaged to fit the new location of the master cylinder without kinking them. I have done this well over half a dozen times when doing this conversion....OR...spend the money and time and put new ones on. I know some people may be intimidated by these lines that have the inverted flares....or have fear of kinking the lines. But if you are careful and make small radius adjustments..I bet they will work for you. And when you get done. They will not look all messed up and out of place. Give it a try and see for yourself before you go and buy new lines if yours are in good shape. It is not like if anyone who has ever put brake or fuel lines on their frame has ever had the do minor adjustments to the lines to get them to fit. This is nothing different. And I can do it all by hand and no tubing benders. OR..buy new lines.

I never needed to drill holes for the booster. Maybe a light cleaning out of the holes with a rat tail file...but that was it.

You should have the option to move the outer tie rod ends ...but the one hole may have an aluminum plug rivet in it that will need to be removed. I do know on the later C3's...GM no longer allowed the option of having manual steering and there was no hole drilled in the spindle arm.

I have not ever installed the Borgeson unit..and that may also be a good option.

Reason being....when you go and connect your 'extend' and 'retract' hoses from your power steering control valve to the power steering cylinder. I do know the kits that are offered seem to never work correctly due to they do not make the hoses correct and they will need modification to them. On the current kits...the clocked position of the tubing and bends are not correct a vast majority of the time. I get my hoses from Gates..and they are as close to factory correct that I have found. O'Reilly auto parts also sells them even thought they are not in a Gates bag. they are the exact same because I have purchased them from Gates directly and also Oreilly's. And my guy from O'Rreillys says that the hoses he sells are Gates hoses..and I do not dispute this after seeing them. Keep in mind..I am referring to the 'extend' and 'retract' hoses.

DUB

 

I think you will need the correct PB stop light switch bracket and striker

 

I do not think that this applies. I know I have never had to replace them when I have done this conversion. possibly an adjustment to the brake light switch.

DUB

 

Although the later design brake booster will go in and work. The shape of the outer housing of the brake booster is different in the later year models an this CAN effect your oil dip stick access.

On the later year models the oil dip stick was moved to the passenger side...thus the shape of the housing is not a factor. BUT..on the correct early design brake boosters ...the outer half is shaped to allow you to get to your oil dipstick easily and not have to bend it or twist it to one side.

Also..just be aware that there can be an issue in the length of the shaft coming out of your brake booster and where you attach the clevis. I know that I have run into where I needed to extent this clevis about 1/8" or so to get the brakes to work...and I think that they sell a provision that can do this for you. Because you can get the brakes all in and bled and it will not work. Keep in mind...on those Corvettes I was using the later design brake booster. Because that is all that was available at that time.

DUB

 

The pushrod clevis goes into a different hole on the brake pedal, if you properly install it, on a manual brake car versus power brake car. You also need different stop switch brackets when you do this because they essentially swap holes on the brake pedal. Also, the manual master cylinder does NOT mount in the same two holes as ANY of the power brake holes. You might be able to BUBBA it, but it is not correct. The manual master cylinder holes are at least half inch lower than top holes of the power booster.

This is not a difficult conversion, but you should try to do it correctly by duplicating how GM did it rather than some of the cowboy stuff I have seen on this forum. But heh, its you car to rig it any way you feel compelled to do.

If you do the conversion, I would like to get that stop light bracket from your manual conversion so I can convert my power brakes back to manual.

 

Borgenson makes a complete manual to ps conversion kit.
You can get all the information and assistance you need on their website and talking with their customer service people.

One thing to consider when converting from manual to power brakes, If you are running a big block motor, is clearance with the brake booster and the drivers side valve cover. Especially if you are or plan to modify the motor and run tall valve covers for roller rocker arm clearances.
Another thing to consider is the power brake boosters run off engine vacuum and you will need to provide a source for the vacuum port on the motor.

 

See link for brake conversion and booster info.

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...ke-conversion/

 

For power steering, I'd go with the Borgeson. Here is a kit on Amazon.
Might find it cheaper elsewhere.

 

don't even have the car yet but since these both sound very doable it makes the search a lot easier. I do want a/c though and wouldn't even think about converting that. as far as the work i'm a prof aircraft mech and can do all the above and I agree no hack work allowed.
again thanx for all the input. now I just gotta figure out how to save this thread.