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Thin wrenches may work the front carb..but GOOD LUCK on them working on the center or rear carb with the carbs still being on the intake engine. The reason I know this is that I have a thin wrench for just that purpose and it did not work. Not even close to working. The angels are all wrong. No way of getting a good grip on the hex portion of the fitting.
I was going to suggest switch to JIC or AN fittings and steel braided hose...but that takes away from the 'factory look' which some people still want to maintain.
YES..IF the line that goes into the fitting wants to move...then with my tool on the line so it can hold the fitting in the carb. You reassemble the BRASS BLOCK temporarily so the line holds it position so you can tighten it at the carb fitting...THEN remove the brass block to get my tool off.
Ah - that makes sense!
Finaly I guess, in which angle you welded the handle to the ring.
YES..the handle I welded onto the socket that I cut and used is that way or a reason.
Also if you noticed how I ground on the width of the socket opposite of where the handle is welded to it. It is there for a reason. My photo shows that also.
The easy solution is the fittings shown, 3/4" wrench at bowl fitting. I put a single wrap of grey teflon tape on the tube (so the flare nut is pushing against tape on back side of flare). I get about 3 remove/tighten cycle out of the tape when doing jet adjustments. (fitting Holley 26-162)
Last edited by suprspooky; May 23, 2018 at 01:05 AM.
The fitting in the above photo DOES look like it is a bit more 'service friendly'. Or at least it appears to be easy top get a flare wrench or open end on the front carb.
I cannot say much about the center or rear carbs due to not seeing photos of an actually wrench being able to hold those fittings. But it looks like it may work.
The fitting in the above photo DOES look like it is a bit more 'service friendly'. Or at least it appears to be easy top get a flare wrench or open end on the front carb.
I cannot say much about the center or rear carbs due to not seeing photos of an actually wrench being able to hold those fittings. But it looks like it may work.
DUB
DUB
I have had the three Carbs on and off more times than I care to count the first year I owned the Car (original owners used lots of Octane Booster which corroded Bowl Mount Screw Holes, Metering Block and Plates etc., ended up helicoiling and replacing Block/Plates)
The Fittings allows standard Wrench on all three Bowls with no issues, between the fittings and Teflon wrap it's almost pleasant now and very leak free.
I have had the three Carbs on and off more times than I care to count the first year I owned the Car (original owners used lots of Octane Booster which corroded Bowl Mount Screw Holes, Metering Block and Plates etc., ended up helicoiling and replacing Block/Plates)
The Fittings allows standard Wrench on all three Bowls with no issues, between the fittings and Teflon wrap it's almost pleasant now and very leak free.
Dave
Dave,
Good to know that the flare wrench can hold these fitting even with the carbs on the engine.
The 1 inch or metric I think are new replacements. The origonal are
13/16. The most important thing is get a new washer and it will
Seal as you tighten it . Not to much . Or it will cost you a bowl.
Do not over tighten it.
The 1 inch or metric I think are new replacements. The origonal are
13/16.
Are You sure? As I found out so, the one inch nut is the original equipment for the '69 L68. When I bought my car, it still had thge original carbs - and they had the 1"-nuts.
My 69 L71 has 13/16" nuts. Go figure. Maybe someone at NCRS can tell us what is correct. Either way, maybe the OP should look at ebay.de and see if any are available in Germany.
I added some pictures of the 3/4" Holley Fittings with Open End Wrench to show clearance ( I don't have a 3/4" Flare Nut Wrench, may borrow one on weekend). It does look like a tight fit for a Flare Nut Wrench.
I believe if you use a wrap of Teflon Tape on the Fuel Line between Nut and Flare (up to edge of Flare but not into seating area) you'll find the tightening force is reduced quite a lot (no worry of rounding Nut) and it makes leak stoping easier. I do use Snap-On Wrenches so I worry less about rounding in general (my personal experience, not an endorsement or debate starting statement).
I have found tightening the fittings on the Brass Tee's last helps a lot, you want the Flare Nuts and Tube at the Float Bowl to find it's happy centered location and then tighten it fully, then go to the Tee's. Once it's leak free I only remove the lines from the Bowls (leaving Tee Fitting Nuts alone).
My 1968 L71 (correct date codes on Carb. Bodies) had 1" Fittings when I bought it, I have several late 60's center hung Float Bowls in my junk box and many of the Bowl Inlet Fittings the Steel ones are all 1". But maybe Holley made 13/16" at one point.
I'd be happy to purchase the 3/4" fittings locally for you and ship if needed.
As usual with these old turds it gets muddier rather than cleareryou've got a mixture of Inlet fittings.
A lot can happen in 50+ years, my Carbs. suffered many years of Octane Booster which (when left in Fuel over winters for 20+ years) caused lots of corrosion damage including the Fuel Inlet bore threads and Fittings.
You've got a nice correct Bowl on your Center Carb. (with Vent mechanism), my Center Bowl was replaced in the distant past.
Where did you get the Air Cleaner Base Cork Gaskets and about how thick/tall are they?
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the first year I owned the Car (original owners used lots of Octane Booster which corroded Bowl Mount Screw Holes, Metering Block and Plates etc., ended up helicoiling and replacing Block/Plates)
you've got a mixture of Inlet fittings.