Hi folks,

I have a probably common problem by maintaining my (Holley) Tripower-Setup on my ’69 L68:

When connecting/disconnecting the fuel lines from the carbs, I have to hold the big (1”) nut, while tighten/loosen the fixing-nut for the fuel-line. Unfortunately the space between the big nut and the carb-housing is too small, to use a normal open-end-wrench, so I can’t grab it tight enough. A ring-wrench won’t help, because it can’t be fixed while the fuel line is connected. Beside there isn’t enough space for it either.

Is there any special tool for that work? Or do you have genious idea to solve that problem?

Interested greets from Germany

Gerrit

 

1"? My Holleys have 13/16" nuts.

 

You need a set of flare nut spanners.

 

 

look on ebay,they used to make a real single-sided wrench like that,had a round handle maybe 6-8'' long

 

I think, this would make it!

I definately have 1"-Nuts on my carbs - and I can't find that tool in this size. Could you help me find it?

Regards from sunny Germany

Gerrit

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-12-...r0w16teXdJnx0Q

I bought a collection of these for my Vintage Air install and to torque a/c hoses/tubing. I discovered lots of other uses too.

Hope this helps.

 

A Holley 2300 with a 1" nut? You are referring to the nut that threads into the float bowl that has the filter in it? Can you post a picture?

 

I've got two sets of 3x2 carbs restored (numbers match) and both of them have 1"-Nuts at the fuel-bowl-inlet:







I've controlled it that afternoon - it's one inch in size!

Gerrit

 

You got me thinking, so I had to go look at mine. 13/16" nut Maybe try finding a Mac Tools S141 wrench. It is about 3/16" thick. It's what I use on quadrajets

 

I made my own tool. I will post a photo of it tomorrow.

Keep in mind that I made this when I was assembling all of the fuel lines.

DUB

 

You could cut some ring spanners to suit.

 

This tool I fabricated works perfectly.





DUB

 

Fine work

But it works only with disassebled fuel-lines because it has no cut-out. I fear, when cutting out a piece for sliding it over the fuel-line, it won't be strong enough, because it's too thin in material ....

I've ordered the "crow-foot" and hope, it will fit ...

Gerrit

 

I know it only works when the liens are off. I wrote that in my first post on this thread.

For me...removing the line or lines to get the fitting correct is not that big of deal. I am not looking for what is fast..because many of these flare wrenches will not fit due to how thick they are. I do not want to damage the fitting due to trying to do what is faster. The last tri-power that I needed to use this tool. Stopping the leak at a fitting took about 5 minutes ...if that.

The tool I made works PERFECTLY. On all three carbs. No damage to the brass fitting and it fits like a dream. I had bit of concern that I needed to use a six point socket instead of a 12 point socket...but so far. This one works and I can get in and get a hold of the fitting and do what I need.

I will BET that if you get crowfoot flare wrench..you will need to grind on it to make it fit...hence...weaken it.

I hope whatever you get works for you because if the tool slips off and rounds that brass edges of the fitting. AS you know...NOW you are in a world of HURT. Which is why I made mine like I did so I did not have the take the carbs off the intake. I do not need to mess up ANYTHING on an engine like this. And time gets thrown out the window due to the engine deserves the best possible.

Hope you idea works for you.

DUB

 

Why not change the nuts to the 13'16" ones?

 

Seems like lot of trouble and expense if you ask me...when clearly there is a method that can fix your problem.

Even if you change out that fitting. I BET you are STILL gong to have a clearance issue on the center and rear carbs.

Do as you wish. Brain storm on it and figure something out. And when it is all said an done ..I hope your idea works.

And in my last post I was incorrect. The fittings are not brass...although some are that I have seen some on other carbs. Sorry for any confusion. But that still does not mean the edges can not get wiped out and rounded off.

I have nothing more to give you due to you have already gotten HOURS of me figuring out and fabricating and testing what was the best alternative I could come up with when I work in these and do NO DAMAGE. I do this stuff for a living so TRUST ME..I try to find the best way that is the quickest. Sometimes it is just what it is. I could have simply ignored this thread and done nothing. But I thought I would help as much as I can..and I did. If what I provided does not suit you and you feel can do better in re-inventing the wheel. Best of luck in your quest and as I wrote before...I hope it works for you.

DUB

 

Do You think, I just can switch to the smaller nuts - just "plug & play"? Do I need anything else?

And - as a main problem for me here in Germany -: where I can get those smaller nuts?

And to DUB:
Regarding your self-made tool I guess, how you will lock the nut, while fixing the fuel line - and take the tool away afterwards? Most I needed such a tool to lock the nut while fixing the line, to prevent the big nut for turning while fixing ... But I agree, that I probably will have to grind the crow-foot for a perfect slip on the nut in place.

Gerrit

 

Because you have to go backwards and take the lines back apart to get to the fitting on the carb...then reassemble the lines...which is not a big deal.

Because the fuel line that is going into the fitting in the carb..is also connected to the brass junction block that CAN be removed.

With the BRASS BLOCK out of the way...but the steel line still in the fitting...it can be tightened..or loosened so the fitting can be tightened...so...my tool can slide off the fitting and the line.

YES..IF the line that goes into the fitting wants to move...then with my tool on the line so it can hold the fitting in the carb. You reassemble the BRASS BLOCK temporarily so the line holds it position so you can tighten it at the carb fitting...THEN remove the brass block to get my tool off.

Not a big deal at all.

DUB

 

Thin wrenches:

Or, you could do what I did when I had the Tripower carbs. Braided steel lines. No more leaks.