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Thanks guy's for advice on heads. One more question. What would be a good Roller camshift kit with the AFR heads for 1969 L46. Not swapping motors or grinding. Just want the bolt on. Already have 750 Holley and Air flow manifold, it's bored 0.060 over. Had too. I'm thinking Comp Cams, but could use some advice. Thank You
Thanks guy's for advice on heads. One more question. What would be a good Roller camshift kit with the AFR heads for 1969 L46. Not swapping motors or grinding. Just want the bolt on. Already have 750 Holley and Air flow manifold, it's bored 0.060 over. Had too. I'm thinking Comp Cams, but could use some advice. Thank You
Why do you want it to be a Comp cam only? There are quite a few good quality brands out there. I would focus more on the CHARACTERISTICS of the cam you want, and then find a cam that carries that grind (or something close to it). So figure out what lift, duration, and LSA you want and then figure out who makes one close, or have Chris Straub grind you one.
x2 on Comp, so many other brands that have been around a LOT longer and have a better reputation imo.
The "little guys" have a lot more to loose and imo better quality control.
Isky, Crower, Elgin, (not sure if Erson is around) Schneider etc.
Stay away from ultra fast ramps its not worth 5-10lbs tq that youll never feel for reduced longevity.
Chris Straub and Mike Jones are good go tos for custom cams. Little more but worth it.
You didn't mention if you are going 180 or 195 AFR heads, but that could change the cam a little. The biggest thing I've read about using AFR heads is they like a cam with a close split. This is due to the exhaust flow the AFR heads being so good. For comparison I am building a 467 with AFR 265 heads and the cam Chris spec'd for me is a 229/229.
Last edited by Sigforty; Jun 19, 2018 at 09:35 AM.
x2 on Comp, so many other brands that have been around a LOT longer and have a better reputation imo.
The "little guys" have a lot more to loose and imo better quality control.
Isky, Crower, Elgin, (not sure if Erson is around) Schneider etc.
Stay away from ultra fast ramps its not worth 5-10lbs tq that youll never feel for reduced longevity.
Chris Straub and Mike Jones are good go tos for custom cams. Little more but worth it.
Agreed.
I'll throw another one out there: Lunati.
I hear nothing but good things about the Lunati Voodoo line of cams, and I have one in my motor currently.
I’m running a lunati retro roller, 270/270, 219/219@ .050 with a 108 lobe separation .549 lift and producing around 440 hp with side pipes.
Decent bottom, powerful midrange, and a decent top end at 6300 rpm.
Howard’s retro roller lifters and full roller rockers.
.060 over is a long ways over. Did the shop check cylinder wall thickness for you? Not many 350s can go that far.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Jun 19, 2018 at 10:16 AM.
219/225 Duration
.525/.525 lift
LSA 110
Operating range 1,500-5,600 RPM with
AFR 180's and 10.2:1 compression.
I have heard the same about the duration split with AFR's but can tell you my 355 has good bottom end, BIG mid Range, and strong power to 6,000 RPM. If there is a deficit using a split duration cam with AFR's, I would be shocked if there is any real world difference based on my motor which is monster for a SB V8 with 1 7/8 inch Long Tube headers. My builder who is an expert building GM V8's said the difference is VERY small and considering my engine should be in the 440-450 Gross HP range, i would never feel or note the difference on the street.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Jun 19, 2018 at 01:34 PM.
219/225 Duration
.525/.525 lift
LSA 110
Operating range 1,500-5,600 RPM with
AFR 180's and 10.2:1 compression.
I have heard the same about the duration split with AFR's but can tell you my 355 has good bottom end, BIG mid Range, and strong power to 6,000 RPM. If there is a deficit using a split duration cam with AFR's, I would be shocked if there is any real world difference based on my motor which is monster for a SB V8 with 1 7/8 inch Long Tube headers. My builder who is an expert building GM V8's said the difference is VERY small and considering my engine should be in the 440-450 Gross HP range, i would never feel or note the difference on the street.
Not to nitpick, but I think most would consider a 355 with heads, cam, and 10:1 compression to be pretty standard, not "monster for a SB V8". I am not knocking your motor by any means, mine is similar (~9.5:1 compression, Brodix IK200 heads, Lunati 268 cam). But I would definitely call mine "mild" not "monster". once you start getting into the built stroker crank motors (383 family, 421 family) you can have a real monster of a small block. Have you had your car dyno'ed? I see you quote that 440-450 hp number alot to people, but you should dyno it so you can give the true numbers, not just what you or the engine builder think it is based on specs.
Check out Crane cams as well. I've run Crane in many boats, motorcycles, and cars over the past45 years and always been happy.
Consider your entire build when picking a cam, including transmission and rear end gearing.
Even valve covers can be an issue with rocker arm clearance.
Kits may not always be the way to go and you may want to purchase individual componants.
Ok maybe not comp cam but I don,t want to go over LSA 110-112. No 383 at all. Just looking for a good setup for AFR heads and roller cam. Don't need a monster. Some low end torque responsive mid range. It will be Dnyo tested when all is done for sure.
It carries Muncie M20 four speed.
Last edited by bugzbunny; Jun 19, 2018 at 08:20 PM.
I’m running a lunati retro roller, 270/270, 219/219@ .050 with a 108 lobe separation .549 lift and producing around 440 hp with side pipes.
Decent bottom, powerful midrange, and a decent top end at 6300 rpm.
Howard’s retro roller lifters and full roller rockers.
.060 over is a long ways over. Did the shop check cylinder wall thickness for you? Not many 350s can go that far.
I thought anything lower then 110LSA you lose vaccum?
Dyno runs for a hp/tq printout are for those who need bragging rights.
Those who don't Need To Know, usually don't care and don't feel the need to bost.
I've dyno tuned a couple of my motorcycles with EFI just to get them spot on and tune the best performance out of the machine, but never even asked what the motor put out or collected the dyno sheets.
I probably won't dyno my 496 either.
It really won't matter what it puts out as long as it runs good, strong and is dependable.
Dyno runs for a hp/tq printout are for those who need bragging rights.
Those who don't Need To Know, usually don't care and don't feel the need to bost.
I've dyno tuned a couple of my motorcycles with EFI just to get them spot on and tune the best performance out of the machine, but never even asked what the motor put out or collected the dyno sheets.
I probably won't dyno my 496 either.
It really won't matter what it puts out as long as it runs good, strong and is dependable.
I agree to an extent, with a street only motor that someone just wants to be a fun "hot rod" to have fun in, dyno time is definitely not necessary. It can help you optimize your combo for sure, so worth it if you are trying to get your tune and timing spot on, but not neccessary or even that worthwhile for someone who isn't looking to completely optimize what they have.
My earlier comment about getting his car dynoed (directed at jb78) was pointed at him quoting his car having 440-450 hp all the time, which to me is just a shot in the dark based on what some other motors have done with similar parts. It always twists my gut a little to see people saying "my motor makes xxx horsepower!" when they have not tested it at all, how do you KNOW it makes that power? It is far more impressive to me to see a lower dyno-proven number than an inflated Gross horsepower guess.