So I took the vette out and had some crazy vibration and weird feeling steering. Looked in my side view mirror and I could see the driver side rear wheel wobbling side to side as If it had loose lug nuts!!

I immediately pulled over and checked it and all the lug nuts were tight. So I slowly drove it home.

jacked up the rear end and I can definitely move the rear wheel more than I should be able to when I hold at 3 o clock and 9 as well as at 6 and 12. Is this my wheel bearing for sure ? Half shaft end play seems fine. Any other way to double check that it's a wheel bearing ?

also, my trailing arm bushing looks pretty bad. I dont think that's the actual play I'm getting because the trailing arm is holding still. But I'm guessing I need to replace that as well. Can I just replace that bushing, or is it the whole trailing arm?

 

Strut rod bushings? Strut Rod adjustment cam bolt loose? If the strut rods are performance aftermarket with a bracket attached to the differential, check the mounting bolts. I have had those work loose and drive like you described. Not fun getting home.

 

If the bearings are bad just rebuild the whole trailing arms, there are a few companies that rebuild them. I'm sure other will chime in and give you advice on who to use. I just rebuilt mine myself. Take a video of the movement and post it here.

Brian

 

The trailing arm like what 'Wee' wrote can be rebuilt or you can do it yourself with the correct tools. The trailing arm bushing can be done the same way using the correct staking fixture tool..

Getting them out can be a challenge but I have never had one I could not get out and I have done countless of them.

DUB

 

Got a video ! Is this wheel bearing wobble ? Feels like the whole assembly moves together. Also I get way more movement when I grab the wheel at 6 and 12 o clock than I do when I grab at 3 and 9.

https://youtu.be/7EVFGdLY0Oo

 

just checked, I wish ! They are nice and tight.

 

Hey Dub, since you sound experienced on these, can you take a look at the video I posted and see if that looks like wheel bearing?

And I am pretty mechanically inclined (changed the heads, cam, lifters, intake etc... on my engine, changed the stub axles shafts in the diff, rebuilt my carb, changed front and rear springs and shocks etc...) but I keep reading that rebuilding trailing arms and changing the rear wheel bearing is not a job for a hobby mechanic and that the tools required cost as much as having a shop do it. You seem to think otherwise. I am pretty much broke and cant afford the $800 to have both trailing arms rebuilt and new wheel bearings right now, so if it's not too difficult to do myself I would strongly consider it, but I trust your opinion.

 

That's definitely the bearings. We re-did dad's ourselves. It's not that hard but you either need the special tools or in our case a spindle was damaged so we shaved down the shaft a bit and used that as a setup tool. The bushing can be staked with a home made tool. Just look at the kit and you'll see how to make the parts yourself.

 

Ok, is there a guide you followed ?

Also examining my trailing arm bushings, they are pretty rotten and need replaced. I see people talking about "rebuilding trailing arms ". Can I not just pull out my trailing arm and replace that bushing? Or is there more to it ?

 

YES...those are for a fact bad wheel bearings and you may actually also have a bad spindle also. But that can not be determined until the assembly is taken apart.

If the metal of your trailing arm is rotten. Then it is up to you on what you want to do due to how much you can or will be able to invest in this.

I will say that you would have to be totally INSANE to drive this car any more until something is done to correct it. I have seen spindles snap and what it does is a lot more damaged than you can think in some cases. Not only that. If the bearing disintegrates.. Then trying to get the spindle out is going to be a ROYAL PAIN due to the roller bearings in the bearing are no longer in place. And with them missing, that will allow the bearing to be that ,much harder to get it to slide off the shaft of the spindle.

AS for using a spindle as s set-up tool. That can be done. .But having the spindle installation tool to pull the spindle through your bearings is something entirely different.

I know people have figured out all different kind of wacky ways to do this but I have the tools and use them. SO if you want to become ingenious and make something yourself...have at it. Also...teh odds that the shim inside teh assembly will be the same one you need to do the bearing is also a chance oyu take. So if oyu buy the Timken bearing and seals ( or whatever brand you choose)...you might need to invest the the shims and spacer kit that are offered due to you will not know what shim you need until you do the dry set-up on the bearings and want to achieve a .001" to no more than .003"...EVEN THOUGH GM states you can go to .008" run out. Anybody who does these for a living KNOWS you should not go to the higher end of the specs..

DUB

 

Thanks for all the info DUB. And yeah I am definitely not driving it ! It was scary enough coasting it home. I'd like to do it myself if it will save me significant money. Looks like the rebuild kits are $150 per side from van steel. Plus the money for tools puts me a little over $400. I'm gonna do some more research, but I'd love to hear from some forum members who have done this themselves and what tools you used, difficulty, tips, anything like that!

 

 

If you can find someone to rebuild both for $395 go for it...That is less than the going rate for just one around here.

Below is the link to my website where I kept up with the rebuild....Lots of pics....Just keep clicking the "Newer Post" button at the bottom to scroll thru all the post.

Trailing arm rebuild....

Brian

 

Where at? That would be perfect.

 

awesome, thanks I'll check it out !

 

Yeah those bearings are shot, most likely the axle ( spindle) is bad too. Can you do them at home, all depends on what you have for tools. I have trained guys around the world and they have done very good work.

I agree, I would take the arm apart and see just what is reusable. Do both arms now and be done with them.

One caution on pricing. It is hard to quote arms without knowing what is needed beyond normal parts and bearings. There is a lot of bait and switch in this world and expecting a common advertised bearing job to cost the same as one where arms, axles, rotors or brackets have to be replaced is going to be a surprise. Then there are various levels of the work that is done to these- they are not all the same. The old saying " you get what you pay for" certainly applies. Do your homework so you know what road you should go down. I have a lot of pictures online on rebuilding arms that have helped 100's over the years. If you decide on trying it and need some coaching let me know. Good luck. Be very grateful you found it before it got a lot worse.

 

There are a lot of very badly done rebuilds too. I know someone who bought a rebuilt set and they were junk giving problems a year after they were installed. They came from what should have been a fairly reputable source too. Also be careful you don't end up with weak Chinese aftermarket spindles. Dad and I found a good used OEM one for his car to replace the damaged one.

 

Hey Gary, thanks for the input ! You helped me with my diff last year so I know you know your stuff ! I'll shoot you an email in a few.

Is it pretty apparent when the spindle is bad ? Or do I need to be measuring ?

I'll plan on getting the trailing arm out and dissaeembling to get a better idea.

 

Just be careful when you go to try to get the spindle out. You can damage it also if you are not careful or have the correct tool to protect the threads at the end of it.

I have had to give the 'bad news' to people who thought they were doing me favor and saving money by talking the trailing arms all apart. When actually they cost themselves a lot more money due to beating the death out of the spindle to get it out and then BEG me to try to save the threaded end. they destroyed.

I also agree that you REALLY have to be careful on what the pricing states. There is not way in hell I can do both spindles CORRECTLY for the price stated above for the pair. I do service work like it needs to be and not what I feel some do who throw out prices to get someone to bite the hook....and then jack up the price due to they have you and your old parts. Even if they send you trailing arms complete and you send back your cores. I still would have concerns for THAT price given in POST #12. Sounds to good to be TRUE.

DUB

 

Good info, thanks!