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So if I use a bearing splitter and a spindle install tool, do I need a press for any other part? I have a friend with a press, but he lives an hour or so away, so it would be nice to just do it all in my garage.
I do not know If I would use a 'bearing splitter'. I have never 'split' a bearing to get it to come off. I use the tool that can pull the bearing off the spindle.
The 'spindle install tool' is used to install the spindle....thus...no hydraulic press is needed.
NOW you would still need the 'bearing set-up tool'.
Wording is critical here so it does not cause you any problems.
I am hoping you also have a good dial indicator???...to verify your bearing run-out....and rotor run out.
I do not know If I would use a 'bearing splitter'. I have never 'split' a bearing to get it to come off. I use the tool that can pull the bearing off the spindle.
The 'spindle install tool' is used to install the spindle....thus...no hydraulic press is needed.
NOW you would still need the 'bearing set-up tool'.
Wording is critical here so it does not cause you any problems.
I am hoping you also have a good dial indicator???...to verify your bearing run-out....and rotor run out.
DUB
Ok makes sense. I made a thread on this forum to see if anyone can lend the tools, still waiting to see.
I am planning to buy a dial indicator if no one has one to lend.
I have this 20 year old HF 20 ton press. The original cylinder was junk and didn't last. I installed a Graingers upgraded Chinese cylinder about 15 years ago and it still works great.
Basic Fixture to hold the support and an older indicator setup. Notice it's clamped so there is no movement. I use a Starrett for them now, that old set up is somewhere in the back of my cabinet.
Made this install tool 15-20 years ago, never used it once. I don't even know what I did with it
Piece of pipe to press on the bearings
Bearing splitter for this job. Press not required. This is an old International Axle tool I bought at Carlisle many years ago $75 new
If you are going to continue to work on cars rebuilding units then you should get the press from HF for under $150 with a coupon. Driver tool about $20 shipped, setup tool - maybe borrowed, GOOD indicator and mag base over $100, cheap one $30, fixture- bore 5 holes in 3/4 aluminum or even hard wood.
Ok parts are ordered, some of the tools are borrowed from friendly forum members (spindle knocker and setup tool, still need to figure out install tool and bushing flare tool).
Started getting the trailing arms off last night since I had a free hour. Got everything disconnected on the drivers side, but as expected the pivot bolt is stuck. So gonna break out the sawzall tonight and cut the bolt.
Hopefully get both trailing arms out and dissassembled this weekend and get them cleaned up and ready for new parts!
Ok I got one spindle out, but the other is stuck good and no amount of hammering on the spindle knocker tool is gonna get it free. How big of a press do I need? There is someone on my local craigslist selling a 6 ton press for $40, is that too small? I definitely don't want to buy it and find out it can't get the spindle out either.
Ok I got one spindle out, but the other is stuck good and no amount of hammering on the spindle knocker tool is gonna get it free. How big of a press do I need? There is someone on my local craigslist selling a 6 ton press for $40, is that too small? I definitely don't want to buy it and find out it can't get the spindle out either.
I haven't had to use a press in over 10 years and I have built a lot of arms. Hit the inner race with some heat, hold the arm at a 45* angle, and use a 5 lb mini sledge.
With that said all I use is a 20 ton press to assemble them. I never use the tool shown.
I haven't had to use a press in over 10 years and I have built a lot of arms. Hit the inner race with some heat, hold the arm at a 45* angle, and use a 5 lb mini sledge.
With that said all I use is a 20 ton press to assemble them. I never use the tool shown.
I'll give it another shot tonight. I already tried the propane torch with no luck, but I'll try again. Maybe just needed some more time to heat up.
The passenger side has been easy so far. Besides a couple rusty bolts, everything came apart pretty nicely. The drivers side has been a bear.
I may need to use an oxy/acetylene torch to heat up the bearing race FAST so I am not heating up the spindle so the bearing will expand.
Maybe the propane torch will get it hot enough without getting the spindle hot as well.
I also do not nor never needed a hydraulic press to get a spindle out.
DUB
Finally got it last night, propane torch and a few good whacks and it came free. Both spindles are out now, so I am working on cleaning up the trailing arms (quite a bit of surface rust) for painting. Hopefully start reassembling them this weekend! Life is busy right now so it's hard to find more than an hour or two to get down in the garage and work on these.
One question (and I'll upload pics later if needed), the piece shown in the picture below (I took this picture from google, not my car. Looks slightly different on my car) has a small crack along one of the bolt holes. Can I just weld that crack up (I have a small MIG)? Or do I need to replace it? Doesn't seem like that part gets alot of stress, but I thought I'd check with you guys.
In my opinion...I would replace it due to I am liable if I tries to fix this. This is obviously the caliper mounting bracket. I SERIOUSLY doubt that a MIG welder would repair this.
I know it is just one crack...and many people will put time into saving a part so they do not have to buy one. So do as you eel works best for you.
Rarely do they crack unless someone tried to use a spindle press tool, NOT recommended since they do more damage then not. They have their place for an on the car repair. You have to check the bracket for being bent as well. If cracked it might be bent, in which case call Bairs and order a new one.
Rarely do they crack unless someone tried to use a spindle press tool, NOT recommended since they do more damage then not. They have their place for an on the car repair. You have to check the bracket for being bent as well. If cracked it might be bent, in which case call Bairs and order a new one.
I AGREE !!! I bought the 'spindle press' over 30 years ago and used it three times. On two of those occasions...the caliper mount bracket snapped and I have not used it since nor NEVER will use it again. They can do more damage than good.
Thanks for the quick responses guys. I'll take a picture tonight to upload, and I'll check it for straightness/flatness.
I spent an hour or so last night cleaning up the trailing arms with a wire wheel and a sander where necessary, and still only got maybe half of one arm done, so my wife (who is also a car and motorcycle person) volunteered to spend some time today cleaning them up and prepping them for paint. So that should help save me some time and keep this project moving along!
Also, the rebuild kits came in yesterday. It was nice opening the box and seeing all that new hardware ready to replace my old rusty parts!
That is a caliper bracket. While I have repaired stripped threads in these with a strong long lasting repair I wouldn't weld and use a cracked one. They are readily available in the aftermarket today and the ones I have used are pretty good.
Sorry not a great pic, but this crack appears to go all the way through. Think I'm ok to just weld it up and then grind it flat?
It could be welded, but not with a MIG. The proper cleaning, prepping the crack and temperature controlling of the part is necessary and a TIG would be used to actually weld it.
In other words, it's easier to just replace it.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 07-13-2018 at 01:07 PM.
That is a caliper bracket. While I have repaired stripped threads in these with a strong long lasting repair I wouldn't weld and use a cracked one. They are readily available in the aftermarket today and the ones I have used are pretty good.
Cool, thanks for the info. I'll search around and try to find a cheap one.
06-29-2018, 10:24 AM
