'72 no start when hot
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 707
Likes: 31
From: Pitman NJ
Following up , here is what happened during the last month...
Purchased a rebuilt carb from Mid America, and that solved the no start issues. I know that this is not the desired path, but it worked, and it isrunning better. The old carb will be sent out for a rebuild at some point in the near future.
Still missing at higher rpms...
Please keep in mind that new points, condenser and coil were already installed.
checked the valve lash, that was good.
Pulled a plug, theory was that the gap was too wide, and that the spark was not jumping across, but the gap was good.
Purchased a $50 HEI distributor, with a tach drive off the internet Ran up to 5500 rpms full power.. so that fixed the breaking up after 4000 rpm, but created other problems. Mainly wires are different and the ignition shielding no longer fit. Air cleaner may not fit either.
The original distributor had very little end play, so went to autozone and purchased a point to electronic conversion kit, and an accell coil (both in stock). Put these items in. Now car runs like new. There must have been a problem with the coil or points...it doesn't really matter at this 'point'.
Seems like it should have been easier then just throwing parts at it, but in the scheme of things it wasn't that much money.
Purchased a rebuilt carb from Mid America, and that solved the no start issues. I know that this is not the desired path, but it worked, and it isrunning better. The old carb will be sent out for a rebuild at some point in the near future.
Still missing at higher rpms...
Please keep in mind that new points, condenser and coil were already installed.
checked the valve lash, that was good.
Pulled a plug, theory was that the gap was too wide, and that the spark was not jumping across, but the gap was good.
Purchased a $50 HEI distributor, with a tach drive off the internet Ran up to 5500 rpms full power.. so that fixed the breaking up after 4000 rpm, but created other problems. Mainly wires are different and the ignition shielding no longer fit. Air cleaner may not fit either.
The original distributor had very little end play, so went to autozone and purchased a point to electronic conversion kit, and an accell coil (both in stock). Put these items in. Now car runs like new. There must have been a problem with the coil or points...it doesn't really matter at this 'point'.
Seems like it should have been easier then just throwing parts at it, but in the scheme of things it wasn't that much money.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
I not read ALL of these posts, so I have to add, you maybe want to check for a stuck heat riser valve on the exhaust....passenger side, stuck even partly closed will cause too much carb heating, which MAY be masked with the new carb.....for now.......ME, on countless cars over the years, have eliminated the heat riser valves entirely, so the passages are open enough to make that choke work just fine, but not forcing a great stream of burning fire under the carb......
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 707
Likes: 31
From: Pitman NJ
I not read ALL of these posts, so I have to add, you maybe want to check for a stuck heat riser valve on the exhaust....passenger side, stuck even partly closed will cause too much carb heating, which MAY be masked with the new carb.....for now.......ME, on countless cars over the years, have eliminated the heat riser valves entirely, so the passages are open enough to make that choke work just fine, but not forcing a great stream of burning fire under the carb......
Racer
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 297
Likes: 43
I don't want to hijack this thread but I'm having similar issues with a car that hasn't been sitting long and has fresh gas. Just in case its similar to what our friend is experiencing, I'll add some details and would love to hear your feedback.
In my similar case, the car starts up just fine when cold and runs fine. When hot, it will start right back up immediately. However, when warm (lets say 15-30 minutes), the engine cranks but won't turn over. Its almost like its flooded but with all the things I've tried, I don't think this is the case. I do smell a little gas and the smoke that comes out of the exhaust during the failed start smells rich. I'm not seeing any signs of boiling gas under the hood either. In fact, hot in my case might be as little as 200-230 or so.
Any thoughts that might benefit blk79nj and I?
Thanks!
In my similar case, the car starts up just fine when cold and runs fine. When hot, it will start right back up immediately. However, when warm (lets say 15-30 minutes), the engine cranks but won't turn over. Its almost like its flooded but with all the things I've tried, I don't think this is the case. I do smell a little gas and the smoke that comes out of the exhaust during the failed start smells rich. I'm not seeing any signs of boiling gas under the hood either. In fact, hot in my case might be as little as 200-230 or so.
Any thoughts that might benefit blk79nj and I?
Thanks!
