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I know quite a few of you guys have great fabricating skills. I’m trying to tidy up the top side of the engine by re-routing the fuel line and making a better looking top heater hose connection. How do you bend steel tubing without the stretched, pinched area. Is it possible? I have basic 3/8ths steel tubing, and your standard hand held tubing bender, but I still get this pinched area. I understand outer radius and inner radius of the bend. Is the tubing too thin? What I have (pictured) functions. But I haven’t been at WOT yet. Don’t want to hamper fuel flow, big blocks can be thirsty.😬
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
You have a bad tubing bender. A good bender will properly support the tubing and will prevent the pinch you're getting. E-mail me for a copy of my "How to Build a Fuel Line" article - it will give you some info on tube benders and techniques.
The first order of business is to order a new tubing bender. I used a new one from harbor freight. Count this as one to skip next time you’re in there. It may work on the 5/16ths and smaller stuff, but 3/8ths will have a flattened outer radius. I will eliminate the 90, but will have to use a coupling down the line, or just redo the whole thing from the pump, which is what I’ll likely do once I get a good bender. I don’t like the straight up pipe nipple for the heater hose either. Seems like a nice 90 would be in order there and just run the hose around the front of the head instead of up and over the fuel line and valve cover. Thanks for the suggestions.
I’ve done some restoration on antique farm equipment and that community was very much against copper fuel lines. Probably because of the vibration and potential cracking of the fuel line. Most old gas tractors had the tank sitting right over the engine. So a fuel spill would have bad potential, considering you were sitting right behind it. I’ve not seen the NiCo tubing, but I’ll looking into it.
there is a reason they don't use copper for fuel lines, and it is not because it is expense, copper will become brittle with age, and crack.
Highly suggest you review your intended material, personally i use Stainless Steel.
Bend the tubing for turns do not use sharp right angle fittings.
here are some of my custom bent lines, I made.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
This is what I use to do all of our 3/8 tubing, it does an awesome job and NEVER kinks the tubes, aluminum, steel or stainless, but the tool isn't cheap by any stretch. It will do a 180* perfect...The Parker Store.
Used it to bend the new tubes for my 383, does a great job.
Last edited by Buccaneer; Jul 19, 2018 at 07:41 PM.
Nickel-copper tubing is not the same as straight copper tubing. It's DOT approved for hydraulic (brake) systems, so it will stand up to fuel line use just fine.
This is what I use to do all of our 3/8 tubing, it does an awesome job and NEVER kinks the tubes, aluminum, steel or stainless, but the tool isn't cheap by any stretch. It will do a 180* perfect...The Parker Store.
Used it to bend the new tubes for my 383, does a great job.
Imperial tools makes the same style benders. I only use the singe size bender vs a bender that can do multiple sizes. I think they are just made and function better.
https://ormebrothers.com/
For special lines & having new ones made of all types.
Like stainless (used 1/2") looks nice but royal pain in the azz...if it isnt a perfect fit good luck. (Wouldnt do again)
Fuel Line Fabrication
