When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What are the options since VB&P is gone.
I know vansteel has some, but no pictures to see what I am getting / quality.
Anyone with vansteel version so I can see what I might be getting. ? or other options.
This is for my track day car.
I can understand why you want the Heim joints but not why you want the geometry change on a track day car. To my understanding, you will give up any camber gain the OE geometry retains.
I can understand why you want the Heim joints but not why you want the geometry change on a track day car. To my understanding, you will give up any camber gain the OE geometry retains.
You reduce the camber gain, but definitely don't eliminate it. Everything I've read suggests that the factory camber gain is greater than ideal... But I've been meaning to remove my spacer to do some back to back testing myself. I did find it interesting that photos under the Ridetech 48 hour car a while ago showed it with the inner mounts set very high, for much greater than stock camber gain.
Last edited by Metalhead140; Jul 25, 2018 at 12:17 AM.
Lowering the strut inner position also lowers the roll center and also reduces jacking. Lowering the rear roll center helps with rear traction in the corners because of the extra force from more body and chassis roll. Of course you need to be able to control the extra force of that roll with stronger springs, roll bars and shock settings to prevent too much body roll. Almost an infinite variety in the combinations you can do to the chassis tune. The important thing is to find a tune that feels good to you and your style of driving on track. On the street just making typical chassis setup changes talked about on forum here hundreds of times will be more than adequate for most.
Mike
Last edited by v2racing; Jul 25, 2018 at 01:48 PM.
You reduce the camber gain, but definitely don't eliminate it. Everything I've read suggests that the factory camber gain is greater than ideal... But I've been meaning to remove my spacer to do some back to back testing myself. I did find it interesting that photos under the Ridetech 48 hour car a while ago showed it with the inner mounts set very high, for much greater than stock camber gain.
This setup...is more or less unbeatable. Danny Popp's C3
This setup...is more or less unbeatable. Danny Popp's C3
This setup might be more for Popp's driving style than maximum adhesion. When I watch Kid Vette's postings of Popp's videos, the inner wheel lifts a bit on turns and the car just kicks around to get pointed in the right direction and accelerate out of the turn. I've often wanted the same thing on my car but never developed that seat-of-the-pants feeling and never tweaked my suspension in the direction of less adhesion or a looser feel.
Which maybe is better for autoX but maybe not for track time. Folks here have a lot more experience than me so I'd like to hear if that sounds right?
This setup might be more for Popp's driving style than maximum adhesion. When I watch Kid Vette's postings of Popp's videos, the inner wheel lifts a bit on turns and the car just kicks around to get pointed in the right direction and accelerate out of the turn. I've often wanted the same thing on my car but never developed that seat-of-the-pants feeling and never tweaked my suspension in the direction of less adhesion or a looser feel.
Which maybe is better for autoX but maybe not for track time. Folks here have a lot more experience than me so I'd like to hear if that sounds right?
If he's lifting the inside wheel, he has a lot of traction on the outside wheel. His setup looks to be tuned towards very tight with a lot of traction on the rear in turns. His roll center is dramatically lowered and he has no roll bar on the rear.
A tuned posi with no springs wouldn't work well with the inside wheel lifting either. It would unload the spiders and the inside wheel would spin free. You have to look at everything in the combination.
I would agree that driving style has a lot to do with setup and Popp's Auto X setup may not do well on longer high speed corners of a road race track.
Mike
Last edited by v2racing; Jul 25, 2018 at 02:00 PM.
Looks like a great setup! I find it curious that in the installed pic you have the strut rods in the highest holes for what appears to be a lot of camber gain? Yet most people lower those pivot points to reduce camber gain?
Originally Posted by Smitty@ridetech
This car is a track car so we want the camber gain. I also effects roll angle height.
I think it's fair to say that it depends on the car, driver, and usage!
Smart Struts with Heim Joints
