When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am replacing the rear strut arms in my 1971 and I can't seem to get the new ones to line up regardless so what I do to the wheel. The ones that I took off seem to have an angle while the new ones seem to be straight. Can anyone hep me figure out what's wrong. Parts guy said 71 rods are suppose to be straight. See attached pics Thanks
They're supposed to be straight. Looks like there may be some prior damage due to improper alignment techniques or maybe they had been used as a lifting point? Try checking the classifieds on the forum for some good used ones or start looking for new.
I am replacing the rear strut arms in my 1971 and I can't seem to get the new ones to line up regardless so what I do to the wheel. The ones that I took off seem to have an angle while the new ones seem to be straight. Can anyone hep me figure out what's wrong. Parts guy said 71 rods are suppose to be straight. See attached pics Thanks
They are supposed to be straight.
Your new one looks fine.
To install you'll need to jack/lift the trailing arm assembly (independent of the vehicle using a separate jack) until it both raises and rotates the strut into the correct orientation. You may need to push the arm assembly inward a bit too. It'll go.
Make sure your vehicle is securely on the jack stands/whatever you're using before you go pushing/raising the trailing arm.
I have new strut rod that are straight but the won't line up, Are the spindle forks supposed to be angled forward on a 71? The forks are angle forward and the reared bolt point looks sqare with the car so the fork sits about 2 inches in front of the rear end bolt point. This seem to make it impossible to use a straight rod. Am I missing something or do I have an incorrect spindle?
Alright I ran out of time and put the old one back on. Another question I have is the upper bolt does not ft tight in the bushing like you would think and also has play between the flange. Is this normal? I won't have time to work on it again until the 25th so if there are anymore tips or links I'm all ears. Thanks guys
I have new strut rod that are straight but the won't line up, Are the spindle forks supposed to be angled forward on a 71? The forks are angle forward and the reared bolt point looks sqare with the car so the fork sits about 2 inches in front of the rear end bolt point. This seem to make it impossible to use a straight rod. Am I missing something or do I have an incorrect spindle?
Some pictures of what you're trying to describe (close and from 2-3 feet away) will go a long way in helping you.
Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; Aug 7, 2018 at 10:26 PM.
Alright I ran out of time and put the old one back on. Another question I have is the upper bolt does not ft tight in the bushing like you would think and also has play between the flange. Is this normal? I won't have time to work on it again until the 25th so if there are anymore tips or links I'm all ears. Thanks guys
??? include a pic of your new strut rod with the holes showing. Perhaps you're missing some hardware.
Where did you get the new strut and bushings?
What "flange" are you referring to?
PICS please
Like Hammerhead said, you need to lift the trailing arm, then the angle will change and it will line up.
This is correct and also the reason I recommend against poly bushings on strut rods. The poly can't conform to the twisting motion and will wear introducing slop. Heim joints are perfect for strut rods.
Was your spring out or disconnected? I did it with the spring installed and I had the same problem you had reinstalling my original strut rod after just replacing the strut bushings (I only did the one strut rod, that's another story). After struggling with it forever, no matter how I raised and lowered the trailing arm, I finally first installed the inboard end and then managed to get the outboard end started. I used a block of wood and a 3lb sledge to pound it in and into position. It was a major PIA. If there's a better way I'm all ears. I'm thinking disconnecting the spring might be the key.
I tried to add pics to reply but it didn't work, I added one more to original post. I'll try to get one of bushing wholes tomorrow. I did it with springs installed. The flange I'm referring to is the bolt point on diff. It has preinstalled hard (nylon?) bushings with metal inside of that. Strut rods came in a kit from volvette with all spring and differential bushings.
Some pictures of what you're trying to describe (close and from 2-3 feet away) will go a long way in helping you.
The extra PICs were helpful.
So the "fork" that holds the shock mount and retains the end of the strut rod is rotated forward because the trailing arm is unsprung (hanging down) at its maximum travel point.
If you jack up the strut rod assembly the strut rod will rotate and square up with the center attachment point under the differential carrier.
FYI: as stated by revitup it may help to disconnect the leaf spring - you need to do that anyway if you're planning to install the new spring bushings and cups in your kit.
Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; Aug 7, 2018 at 10:27 PM.
You might want to check that outboard U-Joint - could be the photo quality but it appears to have some red/rust at the U-Joint cup seal which is a good indicator that the joint is dry and needs to be greased or replaced.
The strut rods are straight but the fittings on each end that they bolt into are not parallel with each other. It was designed like that. There is a small offset so do not tighten up one end before you get the other end in position or it will not slide in. The slight offset on the mount points was to provide constant tension on the bar and suspension even in a neutral position.
Thanks for the replies, it’s going to b a couple weeks before I can get back to it but this should really help. A couple more questions: Is there a certain point that’s better for jacking to get the trailing arm back? And is the camber bolt not suppose to fill up the bushing in the strut rod? Lastly “maybe”is there a left, right, inside or outside of the strut rods or can they turn either way and go on either side?
You are not installing the special cupped washer or cap washer that goes on teh bushing BEFORE you slide it in the bracket that is under your differential
The part at Volunteer Vette is part number SU40 and oyu need 4 of them..
You are not done. The yellow arrow is showing the cup for your rubber bushing that is in your trailing arm to help secure the rubber bushing. The red arrow is showing that it is missing off of your spring and needs to be installed there.
Strut rod problems
